I purchased my 250F in back in april. Back then it was hard to start, but I was still able to kick start it after 10-20 times.

I live in NC where the elevation is approx 900' and now that summer is here the humidity is 75%-90%. The only way that I can get my bike to start is to push start it.

The bike is stock and the only things that I have tried to adjust are the pilot screw. I have gone from 1 1/2 to 4 turns out and it still does not start. It seems to run best at 31/2 to 4 turns out. Is this too much? I also tried to change the clip position on the needle jet. When it was at (pos 3) I could not tell any difference, when it was at (pos 5) I did notice that it took longer to decellerate.

I am using 93 pump gas and do have some backfire (or popping) on slowdown. The plug is tan to light brown in color.

This is my first 4stroke and I feel that I do not know anything about this bike so any help ould be greatly appriciated.

I would really like to understand how to get this bike running for my current conditions and then also understand what I need to do when it gets cold and less humid.

I forgot to add that I am trying to start this follwoing "the drill" TDC... and the idle is set to ??? (this is a good question) I think that it is set to a normal position the engine does not race, nor does it sound like it is going to stall.

What are some of the symptoms of too rich or too lean?



[This message has been edited by wts1982 (edited 06-25-2001).]

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Now would that be the idle screw or the fuel screw. You really want the fuel screw adjusted - it makes them much easier to start - MUCH.

If that is what you have adjusted, make sure the plug is clean - a lot of trouble starting will foul it and make it even harder to start. Finally, it really helps if you raise your idle up as well. Most of the WRF/YZF I've seen have the idle set way lower than the spec. It seems to be racing a little at 1800RPM - but that is what is spec'd.

It would also be helpful to know if it starts cold easier with the choke or the hot start on.

- Sean

Since this is your first four-stroke are you familiar with the starting procedure - bringing it to Top Dead Center and then kicking it through?

Is your pilot screw the right size - it should be if it's stock. I am in a similar climate and I am still using the stock pilot. How does it idle once you get the bike started? Does it return to proper idle after you rev it?
-Brett

Actually 900 feet is a good elevation and stock jetting should be pretty close. I am at 1600 feet and I looked at my plug for the first time since dec. yesterday. It looked just a smidge dark but really good.

If I were you I would go back to stock jetting specs. If you are backfiring you are definitely on the lean side. Just go back to stock and start all over and only make one jetting change at a time. These bikes are not near as sensitive to jetting changes as 2 strokes. At your elevation, I would almost guess stock jetting, and turn the fuel screw out 1/4 turn from stock.

I know this is a dumb question, but, do you have the starting drill down yet? You should only be kicking the bike barely after top dead center, and then leave you foot down until motor stops, or starts. When you let the kick starter up too fast, it seems to bog the motor. Well, good luck.

I lived your experience once......my fix was the easiest to fix but the hardest to find.......clogged PILOT jet. Push started that damn thing a dozen times and had it to 3 dealers before I thought "MAYBE THE PILOT IS PLUGGED".

check it

leroy

I found it hard to start at first but it seems to get easier and easier with practise, apart from the above points, stick to the procedure rigorously. Also, when i switch it off I immediately whip in the decomp. turn it over centre, get it set up. Then to start, all I have to do is kick it like a 2stroke but with no throttle. Sounds obvious but it really works, starts first kick usually. It seems to like not being 'disturbed' by messing around with the decomp. etc b4 you kick. Works for me..

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live fast, see what happens..

wts1982, how many miles on your bike now? Mine didn't get real easy to start until around 150 miles. I was calling it every name in the book.

Also, when it won't start, try turning off your gas, then lean bike over and drain some gas from carb bowl (to prevent flooding while you're kick starting). Then start bike. Then turn gas back on immediately. Wride.

Hey Chris,

I live in the Raleigh area and am always looking for people to ride with. I am not sure what you are close to but me and some buddies travel around to the hare scambles in NC and Va, maybe we could get to gether.

As far as the starting goes... these guys here really know what they are talking about. the breakin period was the worst for me, but IT DOES GET BETTER. I Think I would follow Leroy's suggestion. 3-4 turns out sounds like a lot on the fuel screw. I have not seen any mention of anyone using more than 2.5 on the TT board here. But every bike is different as set by the factory.
Another clue as to whether the bike is too rich is if you can start it when the bike is cold with the hot start button out.

mike

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2001 WR250F - Snorkle out, t-stop cut, grey wire mod, YZ timed, DR.D Pipe, Ty Davis/IMS seat and tank, handlebar hot start, panoram computer, Mich S-12 Rear/ Mich starcross MS2 front, Ty Davis rad supports, Scotts Damper and triple clamp w/ Protaper bars, stock jetting, fuel screw 1.75 out, that's about it...

Also...
The float level was right at factory spec for my bike yet it would drip fuel out the overflow tubes when ever I would kick it. This seemed to cause a variable rich mixture during starts. I lowered the float my 0.5mm and improved the starts with no high speed/load fuel starvation issues.

wts,

If you got it from a dealer take it back in and make them start it. If they can easily start it then you haven't perfected the ritual. If they can't start it make them fix it. You payed way too much money for the bike to have problems with something as basic as starting.

If it showed up at your door in a crate I would still try to get a dealer to help or find somebody who has an F to see if they can start it easily.

When I got my wrf I kicked it for a half hour before I was able to start it. It was embarrassing because my wife wondered why I had just dropped a lot of cash for something that wouldn't easily start. It seemed so easy when the dealer mechanic did the walk through.

Within a few days I was starting it every time with 1 to 2 kicks either hot or cold and haven't had problems since (except when I take a spill!).

Good Luck

Congradulations Leroy, You are the winner of the "What wrong with my bike" contest.

I finally got around to really looking at the problem and I changed just about everything at one time or another.

I tested the bike after every change and found that the stock jetting(with a clean pilot jet) worked best for me.

Thanks for everyones help!