I can't find the post I read about a month ago. Did a search but still can't find it.

Question: When your using a torque wrench, how much to you reduce torque value when your using an lubricated bolt ???

Jeff

i dont know but

why dont you just clean the thread

The torque is what it is. A dirty bolt or bolt hole will actually require more torque. If in doubt, tun a tap through the hole to clean out any debris, clean the bolt and then follow the mfr's recommendations on torque, lubrication and/or thread locking compound.

Normal procedure is to lightly oil bolts before torquing. Lock-tite, anti-seize, oil, all suffice depending on the application.

Lubricating bolts requires less torque. Most all specifications are dry. I agree with following the manuals guidelines as to what should be applied to the bolt.

Here's a site I've used when I wasn't sure.

http://raskcycle.com...p/webdoc14.html

vmaxcbr900wr426: Thanks for the Link.. Thats what I was looking for.

Jeff

MNXR250R said:

If memory serves, somewhere in the 20-30%, at least for grease or anti-seize. I don't think just oil requires quite as much reduction.

JayC

Always refer to the manufactures recommendations for proper torque specs, as some specs require dry threads and some require lubed threads. There are just too many variables to make a general statement about torques.

Tom

MNXR250R said:

None. Lubricating the threads will reduce friction between the fastener and hole, and your torque reading will be more accurate, and be closer to the desired clamping force. If it is specified as one or the other, do that. But if it is not specified wet or dry, you are better off lubricating with either locktite or neversieze, unless you want to whip out some thread analysis for each instance.

Or look at it this way:
1. Thread was designed to be dry (not likely), but you lubed it, and did not compensate in any way. Threads slide against each other easier, and you get more clamping force for the torque input. Who cares. They're going to have a bigger margin of safety than that.
2. Thread was designed to be lubed, and you didn't lube it.
2a. You compensate by increasing torque, and also thread friction, to get intended clamping force. Worst case, you strip your threads then and there. That sucks. Not as bad case: if this is something to do often, the threads get worn faster.
2b. You go to the same indicated torque, but because friction counts for some of that, you have less clamping force than the designer intended. Either the material strain put less effort into hold the fastener in place, and it works loose, or the two pieces that are bolted together can separate under loading and this really sucks. Especially if they hold oil or water.

So use something and torque it to spec. Neverseize if you will leave it there for years, and don't want something to corrode to itself, or locktite if you're going to check it next month, and just don't want it to fall off before than.

I don't know if it was when we were putting the forks back in the triple clamps, or when we were reassembling the topend, but there was something on the threads. Dad said you have to get that perfectly clean because if you don't then the torque won't register (atleast at the right time) and you will be totally screwed. It will spin forever, and then some.

Just thought I'd say that, I don't know if it helped any (doubt it), but thought I might as well try.

OrangeYZ said:

As vmaxcbrwr already mentioned, most torque specs are dry. Given this, there is no way your torque reading will be more accurate if you decide lubed threads are better.
More clamping force for required input is not a good thing. If that were the case, you wouldn't need a torque wrench, you could muscle it till just before it breaks.
Who cares? Maybe the guy torquing his cam caps. :excuseme:
I think torque specs are there to prevent over tightening maybe moreso than under tightening.

MNXR250R,
skipn8r is the man when it comes to derating dry torque values when using anti-seize, threadlock, etc. Not sure if this was the thread you're looking for, but he has posted several on this topic in the Honda 2-stroke forum...

http://www.thumperta...737#post4689737