WR Valve Adjustment
Posted November 10, 2004 - 03:27 PM
Also - has anyone had their de-compression plug pop out? I am considering one of those plugs that they are advertising on the main page.
Posted November 10, 2004 - 03:41 PM
Posted November 10, 2004 - 06:51 PM
Posted November 11, 2004 - 10:07 AM
I really appreciate the info, this forum is a god send. All of my friends are partial to orange and since I don't even have 1/100th of the carb or jetting problems they do I have no one to discuss valve adjustments with. I do wish however that my valves were as easy to adjust as theirs
Posted November 11, 2004 - 03:23 PM
Posted November 11, 2004 - 06:57 PM
now for valves. wr's are pretty noisy. there is alot of stuff going round and round in there. most valves have to be adjusted because they have gotten tight, not loose. for the most part the valves are seating them selves and the gap tightens. you might have to "adjust" them twice the whole time you own the bike. it's not a honda. to do it right can take some time. you need to keep track of what parts come from what valve. if you have more than one valve out of spec, you may get lucky and one of the shims may be the one you need for the other. write stuff down! write down the current gap, the current shim size, and the size needed. it'll all blend together after awhile. you may have to waite a couple days for the shim you need. you'll be glad you wrote stuff down.
if the valve (or valves) on only one cam need work, you can put a couple cable ties through the holes in the cam sprocket and hold the cam chain in place. you can lift the one cam up enough to get to the shims and not mess up the timming. don't let the cam chain jump on the crank sprocket or you start from scratch.
also, watch for the "clip" under the cam cap. sometimes it stays on the bearing , sometimes not. it can fall down the cam chain hole.
Posted November 11, 2004 - 10:15 PM
Watch out for the bearing clip!
Keep the chain lifted and tight on the crank sprocket.
Mark the chain and do one cam shaft at a time.
Write everything down and keep the same bucket with each valve!
Posted November 11, 2004 - 11:32 PM
Secondly, I have a freind who owns a yamaha dealership, who does it for a very good price.
In conclusion, my advice to you is IF you decide to do it yourself listen carfully to people who know whats up for sure. It sounds like the guys that posted right before me know what they are doing.
Posted November 12, 2004 - 08:14 AM
Posted November 12, 2004 - 10:29 AM
Clean the bike and remove air scoops, seat and fuel tank.
Next remove the upper engine mount and breather tubes.
To 5mm allen screws hold the valve cover on, be gentle when removing it. Remove spark plug and TDC the motor using your crank and cam marks. Leave the chain tight for now, grab your feeler gauge (metric&in.) First try .006 on the intake valves and then go up or down from there. Write down what you measure.
Go to exhaust, start with .010 and go up or down and write that down. The feel will be a nice silky smooth feel but not sloppy on the feeler gauge. (i.e.) ex. left=.008 ex. right .011; in. left=.005 in. center=.007 in. right=.004.
Do this first and then send me your lash numbers.
Posted November 12, 2004 - 11:13 AM
Posted November 12, 2004 - 11:52 AM
Posted November 12, 2004 - 12:06 PM
Posted November 12, 2004 - 01:53 PM
Posted November 18, 2004 - 02:33 AM
I have a 01 wr250f and we put suzuki shims in which are exactly the same size, ask bfore yo get them. also the suzuki shim go up by one and yami shims go up in five, meaning you get a more acurate clearance with suzuki shims.
Posted November 18, 2004 - 03:20 AM