how f*** do you bleed front breaks?


6 replies to this topic
  • Shane_Bettin

Posted November 05, 2004 - 11:02 AM

#1

well ive just been tryen to bleed my front break for the last hour after putting a new line on. i went back to the yz routing with a steal braided line. ive bled the fr and rr before with success although the front was still shitty, had to press real hard for it to work real good. but this is not worken for me at all. i don;t have any beeding tools, im just putting fluid in the res. and pumping it up, holding the lever and opening the screw, closing the screw then releasing the lever and repeating. the lever has gotten a some resistance since ive started and has spring action to it but its not gettin any better. i don't know where to go from here. help
thanks
shane

  • slappie

Posted November 05, 2004 - 11:05 AM

#2

I agree, it is a pain in the butt!

I did the same thing as you but it took forever.

Keep going and it will get better.

Also, put a zip tie around the grip and the lever (compressing the lever) overnight and it will firm up the feel as well.

Have fun!

  • Rich_Rohrich

Posted November 05, 2004 - 11:14 AM

#3

Another option that makes life much easier is to use Speed Bleeders. They are cheap (about $7) and they make it nearly impossible to get air back in the system. It makes changing brake fluid each season or parts much simpler.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

It's a great product and the people at Speed Bleeder are some of the nicest you will ever deal with.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • grayracer513

Posted November 05, 2004 - 11:24 AM

#4

There are a couple of approaches you can take:

1) Gravity bleeding. Works on many disk systems. Fill the reservoir and open the bleeder screw. If fluid runs out of the bleeder without squeezing the lever, keep adding fluid to the reservoir as it runs out, and watch for the flow to be interrupted by air bubbles. When the bubbles seem to have stopped, close the screw and try it.

2) Reverse bleeding. First get as much air out of the caliper as possible. Then take a plastic bottle with a "squirt" top on it that a hose can be attached to and fill it with brake fluid. Open the bleeder, and holding the bottle inverted, attach the hose to the bleeder after letting all the air out of the hose. Squeeze fluid in from the bottom up to force air in the line up and out of the master cylinder. This gets messy.

3) Dismount the caliper and insert a piece of plate between the pads to substitute for the rotor. Remove the brake hose from all retainers and have someone hold the line and caliper up so that the hose is horizontal, and the bleeder screw is at the top of the caliper. Bleed in a normal fashion. This will keep air bubbles from running back to the top faster than you can push them down.

Good Luck :cry:

  • Shane_Bettin

Posted November 05, 2004 - 11:43 AM

#5

right on thanks guys. gray, #3 sounds the easiest for a 1 person job right now, even though its still gonna be a pain in the ass. would holding the caliperup high the the lever work any better. because i can strap the caliper to somethin inthe garage but its high then the lever.

  • Shane_Bettin

Posted November 05, 2004 - 12:18 PM

#6

alright i just finfished my brakes and useing the #3 method took me about 10 mins tops. i wish i woulda known about that 2 hours ago, i would be riding right now.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 05, 2004 - 02:00 PM

#7

Glad it worked out for you. As far as holding the caliper higher than the master, as long as fluid doesn't try to back up into the reservoir (and it really shouldn't) that will work too. :cry: :cry:





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