04 yz450 = painfull wrists
Posted October 27, 2004 - 12:55 AM
I recently picked up a brand new 04 yz450 after stepping off a 00 cr250 which I'd had since new. I love most of the suspension action on this bike, its suppleness is something I could never achieve on the cr.
Unfortunately the yz seems to blow right thru the travel and bottom quite hard on the one large tabletop I cant clear at our track, I first tried raising the oil level and finally ended at the max height, then I slowly adjusted the clickers until it started to get too harsh on the rest of the track but the wrists still hurt, I'm also trying to land with the gas on.
My current settings are 5 clicks out from bottom on the compression and 8 on the rebound with oil level at the max, I weigh approx 185 lb and am a C grade racer who mostly races sand tracks.
Searching the old posts didn’t seem to show much other than a few posts about sub tanks helping. Can valving changes help or are tanks the only way? I'm not aware of anyone in AUS that deals with the sub tanks
Posted October 27, 2004 - 02:34 AM
Posted October 27, 2004 - 08:23 AM
I've seen that done several times on street bikes out of curiousity and it will work the same way on a dirt bike.
Posted October 27, 2004 - 08:32 AM
Posted October 27, 2004 - 08:48 AM
well, seems to me that you are stuck somewhere. I assume you are really bottoming.......a suspension set up is always a compromise....so, when the set up works fine on the rest of the track and bottoms on this table you don`t jump, there a three solutions:
#1: set up the suspension for the table....but you won`t do that, because the rest of the lap is screwed up!!!
#2: go faster and jump the table....when you jump it correctly your ride will be plush again!
#3: when #2 doesn`t work, go slower over the table and it will not bottom
....like I said, suspension set up is always a compromise!!!
Sure, you can get a revalve and longer "anti-bottom-rods", but this is not the solution.
I`m afraid you have to go with #2 or #3!!!!
Posted October 27, 2004 - 08:55 AM
I have met guys who thought compression was adjusted at top like it is done in older Showa forks (you talk about your old CR)... Just my sincere thought.
Posted October 27, 2004 - 08:26 PM
Posted October 28, 2004 - 03:52 AM
Fair coment re what adjuster is what, but I've had gsxr's since 86 (yes I'm 30+) so I am used to where the comp and rebound are, mind you I still get asked by some of my mates what is what so I know where you are coming from.
Front wheel first ? I always thought it was land with the front slightly higher than the rear. On all the other jumps I can match the down slope and the thing just glides along but this jump and to a lesser extent a drop off the front seems to blow thru, and punish me.
I'm don't feel I have the skills yet to clear this jump (50 ft) or be able to control the bike should something go wrong, so maybe I should'nt try so hard on this jump and just concentrate on the rest of the track it's just not enjoyable coming to the track for a ride and your wrists ache, note: I try to ride 3 times a week, driving a desk just doesn't do anything for mx.
Posted October 28, 2004 - 04:15 AM
Posted October 28, 2004 - 05:49 AM
Posted October 28, 2004 - 06:21 AM
New forks have to break in - the oil height from sock is usually in the 125-135mm range - 90mm works very well.
Service the forks every 6 mos(normal) for 3X per week I would do a service every 3rd month - new oil makes for better fork action.
My 03 works real well with 90mm oil height.
The stock forks can be made a lot better with revalving and or/ subtanks and revalving.
Rubber mounted triple clamps will help dissipate the hit on those slapper landings -
Posted October 28, 2004 - 11:51 AM
1. Some suspension theorists seem to reckon the bike should do a small bottom out on the biggest jump on the track
2. Yes landing front wheel first is the correct technique
3. Get your shocks serviced they probably need it anyway
4. Dont go and smash yourself just to clear this TT
5. Find a small jump and practice flat landings getting gradually bigger every time you can nail it by relaxing, landing slightly front wheel first, without bottoming if youve got the correct technique you should be gripping the bike with your feet and bending your legs and arms relaxed as you land. Not bracing yourself and hurting or jarring anything. Good luck.
Posted October 28, 2004 - 11:54 AM
Posted October 28, 2004 - 03:08 PM
Posted October 28, 2004 - 03:38 PM
You guys who are saying landing front wheel first is the correct technique for a flat landing from way up high.. no offense, but you guys are nutts. Do you also like to face the next jump front wheel first when you short a double or triple? If I'm up high and looking at a clanker of a landing, it's full throttle and rear wheel first! Front wheel first on a really hard landing is a great way to blow out your front wheel and/or break your wrists.
Posted October 28, 2004 - 04:15 PM
Posted October 29, 2004 - 03:05 AM
Posted October 29, 2004 - 12:22 PM
Posted November 02, 2004 - 04:03 PM
Think I may need to send them out to at least be pulled apart and at least checked.
After 15hrs I dropped the forks out and changed the oil, hoping it would help, when it didnt I did the raising bit, with the springs out damper rod and forks fully compressed and stopped at 105mm which is the max according to the manual. I always aim to get the suspension serviced every 30 hours.
Maybe the rubber mounts are what I need as the CR had them and I never experienced this problem, if only I had money those flex bars look the goods.
As the tracks I race on are sand, not loam or hardpack, I'll stick to the rear wheel first.
I'll have to get a mate to video me to see if how I'm landing, maybe not enough gas?
I'm jumping close to 40ft from the top of the takeoff to where I land, I'll go have a talk to the local suspension shop this week.
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