Chains and Sprockets

12 replies to this topic
  • Danco

Posted September 06, 2002 - 03:47 AM


What replacement chain and sprockets are recommended for the BRP. These things come with the chains with no master link and the manual say's don't run one with a standard chain with a master link. I want a very good chain and sprockets which will last a long time. What's up with these x-ring chains? Do I need to buy a tool to get it on? Thinking about the Sidewinders - anyone have them? Any other suggestions? Thanks

  • joe_moto

Posted September 07, 2002 - 04:59 AM


I use an X-RING chain and steel sprockets...whats a few extra pounds to a 300lb, and they last alot longer. hope this helps

  • motometal

Posted September 07, 2002 - 07:44 AM


the x-ring is just a souped up version of the o-ring chain. no big deal. for either, you don't need a special tool once it's cut to length. the connector link plate is press fit, use a vice grips and the box end of a very small open end wrench and gradually squeeze the link together (one side, then the other side... go back and forth). Stop when you have exposed enough of the groove to put on the clip.

Sidewinder stuff is ok, but in my opinion falls short of all the fancy adds and marketing hype, and isn't worth the price. Companies like RK and DID both make excellent chains, there are lots of good ones out there, just stay away from cheap junk.

I see no reason why a chain with a connector link wouldn't work, unless there are clearance issues (the connector link tends to stick out a bit).

  • Craig_Mitchell

Posted September 07, 2002 - 08:56 AM


Danco, there's a reason the BRP manual says
don't use a chain with a masterlink, and that
is due to massive amount of torque/force that will be put on the chain. This topic has risen
several times over on Yahoo groupxr650r and
most owners seem to be sticking with the endless.
After splitting my original chain powering up
a hill, I invested in the small breaker&riviting
set for £40 ( which you can probably but for 40 bucks).

cheers, Craig

  • Big_D

Posted September 07, 2002 - 09:27 PM


I would sugjest buying a quality name brand O-ring chain (X-ring is the same thing) with a staked (press fit) master link AND a clip type master link. Also invest in the tool to press the staked link properly so you do not end up with a tight link. The clip type master is for your tool pack so it can get you home if you snap your chain "on the moon".

I have never broke a chain, but an extra master link helped one of my riding buddies get back to the truck without having to push his bike 20 miles to the 4x4 road. :)

  • Wilson-1

Posted September 07, 2002 - 08:16 PM


Did a Baja trip this year and before I went I changed my chain and both sprokets. I spent the money on the X ring 520 chain and steel sprokets. Was suprised however the X ring chain (DID) has stretched more than expected. 3 adjustment so far. Overall the set has been very good and IMHO worth the money.

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  • Terrain Rider 4z

Posted September 08, 2002 - 05:57 AM


One and a half years ago I bought a cheap heavy duty chain with steel sprockets. The chain was lousy, though the dealer told me it would last forever. I had to adjust that thing at least once a ride :) Ten months later I put on a DID X-ring with steel sprockets and have been very impressed. I now have about 1500 miles on the setup and it has minimal stretch. The stretch came in the first 100 miles, then stopped. I don't think you can do better than this setup. :D

  • Terrain Rider 4z

Posted September 08, 2002 - 06:00 AM


Oh yeah, check out to get the X-Ring for around $68. Best price by far. I don't know about the Titax sprockets though, seem too cheap to be quality. Good Luck

  • sibyib

Posted September 08, 2002 - 09:21 PM


Increased the rear sprocket from 48 to 53 and a DID after market chain with a master link. Increased the torque to the rear wheel. Chain is holding up fine. Lost the top end speed but in the tight stuff to much speed kills. Now I have to work on the BRP's puking out coolant problem. Any advice with out spending a mint from Honda.

  • GUMBYXR400

Posted September 10, 2002 - 07:12 AM


I know that the 650 pulls a little more torque that the 400 but I just bought new stuff not too long ago.

I bought my RK X-Ring from Rocky Mountain MC, agree with the best price out there. I got my sprockets from They had a great price for the Sprocket Specialist SX rear and light weight steel front. I wanted to keep the turning weight down so I went with the SX rear. It is an alloy sprocket with an hard anodized finish. Not sure if it is all hype or not yet. But its holding up so far(has about 600 hard miles on it). 400 of it sand and whoops. It looks pretty cool too. I don't have a good picture of it with me now but if you want I can email one later when I get home.

Good luck.

  • bigtom17

Posted September 10, 2002 - 09:32 PM


I had the same concerns and decided to get the xring 520 (DID). I have maybe 400 miles of forest riding, no problems to report so far happy. They say this chain is for 500-700cc engines. The Honda shop recommened this chain. If it snaps I will be pissed and let you all know. Do buy a pin pusher tool, not sure what they are called but these are a b**tch to separate w/o the right tools. Don't do what I did and cut it short now I have a new chain for my 48 tooth sprocket. Expensive mistake or a spare however you look at it.

  • Terrain Rider 4z

Posted September 10, 2002 - 10:45 AM


Big Tom, we should definitely hook up for a ride sometime. We must operate on the same level as I also cut one to many links out. I have been risking two master links for the past 1500 miles, but so far so good. Of course the 650 makes gobs more torque than my old 600.

  • motometal

Posted September 15, 2002 - 05:37 AM


I don't think there is any way the torque of an XR would "pull apart" a good qualtiy chain with a clip-type connector link. The forces are on the pins, there isn't enough side load on the plates to force the plate and the clip off (unless something is severely misalligned)

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