Suspension question!!!!

[696]

I am beginning to test my limits on jumping. I feel pretty comfortable but before I go to high I want to make sure my suspension is up to the task. It's all stock, 01 WR 426. Most of my landings now are flat landings and I do bottom. I am looking to build some jumps to land on to smooth things out. Any of you guys out there have a 01 WR and do any big jumps (6'+, flat or banked landings)? Will my suspension hold up? I'm 6'1" and 175lbs.

696

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2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed, Gray Wire Mod.

[MN_Kevin]

If you are bottoming the fork, you can either increase compression damping (which will make your fork stiffer EVERYWHERE) or start raising oil level in fork. Add 5 cc's oil to each leg and test ride. You can add the oil right through the vent plug in the top of your fork.

If you are bottoming your rear, go stiffer one or two clicks on your compression.

Flat landings are definitely more of an impact than a downhill landing.

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'99 WZ/YR (you choose!) with ALL YZ mods, de-octopused, DSP Doug Henry airbox w/ velocity stack, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, OEM YZ tank, IMS YZ seat.

[696]

I'm still playing with the set up. I know where it needs to be for the woods but, it still a little ifey on the jumps.

696

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2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed, Gray Wire Mod.

[crazyadam]

I have a 2000 wr, yz timed badass, and she loves to fly. I'm 6'5" about 180lbs or so. I do motocross, and woods, and I get carried away with freestyle as well I cranked the rear spring, and set high speed comp. about 4-5 clicks stiffer than stock in the front and rear. 1-2 clicks more on low speed.. rebound is only 3-4 clicks over stock. She handles great on the track, in the woods, mud and every where else. the last time i took pics of my jumps, i had a good 20-25 feet from the high point to the lip of my landing, no bottoming at all. actually, I hardly know when we have re-conected with planet earth. I LOVE THAT FEELING, Fifth gear pinned great suspension setup does wonders!! feel it out, she can handle more than most of us. good luck! go big ?

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adam

[696]

Adam: Got any pic to send me???

You adjusted the rear high speed 4-5 clicks and 4-5 clicks on the front. Then 1-2 on the rear low speed and 3-4 on the front rebound..correct?

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2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed, Gray Wire Mod.

[David_W]

I put stronger springs in my '00WR. 0.49kg/mm forks, and a 5.8Kg/mm shock spring. Handling is way better, and it doesn't try and throw me over the bars when I hit a jump. UK bike come with lighter springs front and rear than US spec. I'm 6'5" and weigh 240lbs.

[crazyadam]

696 if my memory is still working, those are the correct settings, I only went up from stock. I am going to do a full lube of suspension on friday, I will get all exact #s for you, I'm also going to get to the crazy grey wire. a friend of mine with a 98 wr(my old bike) said it had better take off with the increased mid,... better to throw me off the jumps. I'm looking for a scanner to get some pics up for you, or I can borrow a digital, just another excuse to go out and play, have fun ride fast!!?

[696]

Thanks in advance Adam. I'm looking to get my bike back together tomorrow and I'll use the set up you gave me for now.

696

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2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed, Gray Wire Mod.

[WR_Jason]

Hey maybe you guys can clear up for me what clicker dose what on this bike! I have never seen so many clickers, every time I look at the bike it seems I find anoter one! The book dose not do a very good job of telling me what each adjuster dose. I have all the adjusters set in the middle of their range for starters. I am 6'1 180 lbs and ride mostly east coast trails and like to hit small jumps from 5 to 10 feet high with flat landings. I would like the front to handel sandwash turns well.

Thanks!

[Dan_Lorenze]

Jason, For the forks, you have the rebound clickers on the bottom of the forks. This controls how fast you forks rebound from being compressed. On top in the middle of each fork leg you will find the dampning clickers, this controls how much dampning is applied, less damping will give you more travel and vice versa. Im always changing my settings to match the terrain im riding. One very important thing to do is to set you "race sag". This is the travel distance of your rear suspension, if I can remember correctly I think it's about 3 inches, this is probably the most important thing you could do regarding the set up of your bike. The shock has rebound and dampning aswell, the dampning is on the resivoir up top and the rebound is way down below on the bottom of the shock. I don't know the exact count of each individual clicker you should be at but I think you should start every setting in the middle (counting all avil clicks) and go from there. The best thing you could to is to test and test and test, and play and play and play with it. That's the only way to find out what works best. Good luck dude....

Dan

[696]

The High Speed it the big nut on your nitro tank on the rightside near the frame. It's for the big jumps or hard compressions.

Well I found out something very interesting today at a Yamaha dealer according to the service manager, who went to a couple of tech classes put on by Yamaha, he said one of the reps told him that the way that they come up with the settings (clicks for rebound and compression for front and rear)is by using the most comfortable settings that the pros provided for the last year, or tested if it's the first year for a bike. He said to many people come into his store and think they need a new this or that for there suspension. He looks in his book for what the factory set it at and adjusts the bike. When the people try it out the can't believe it's the same bike. ALOT of people have the compression to rebound ratio way out of wack and it really throws the bike off.

Now that I have had my YR for a while I'm going to try it and see if there is a big difference with the factory settings.

Just thought you would like to know, oh for the WR the setting is the same as the YZ.

696

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2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed, Gray Wire Mod.

[WR_Jason]

Thanks Dan, is the dampening setting also referred to as the compression? I here people talking about high and low speed settings, whats up with that. Ill have to look into the rear sag, its always listed in mm. I have to truck my bike an hour to get to good legal riding, so testing is limited to 1st gear very tight twisty trail out back with one little 2 ft jump, even last week when I was riding with the owneres permission the chief of police was standing in the middle of the trail and we had a talk cause some smo 1/4 mi down the road said kids were setting fires back in the woods! Translation, most old folks hate dirt bikes so lets call the cops to come out and rattel em up a bit! So haveing a good bench set up is crittical to get in max riding time. I do carry a screw driver to make quick adjustments though.

Thanks!

[samohT]

Dan,

the rebound clickers are at the top and the compression at the bottom of the fork.

WR_Jason,

a good starting point for the clickers is the factory settings which can be found in the owners manual. It also tells you how to set the correct sag. Then comes the hard part, you have to ride the bike and feel what function of the suspension that you don't like. Then you can look in the manual again in the tuning chapter and find out which clicker to turn to hopefully make the suspension better for you.

[WR_Jason]

Well, I think my problem may just be that I cant find a problem. This bikes suspension (all settings currently in the middle of the range) is soooo much better than anything I have ever ridden, I can not find fault with it. Where as some one that races or has done alot of testing would get on it and say, oh two clicks here one there and so on. I was realy unhappy with it on my first hard ride, I took the fork apart and found only one dampening rod was loosely attached to the end cap, the other was flopping in the fork! I put it together right and rode hard this weekend, I am happy. I did narly goat path rock trials, tight woods, hills, small jumps, and fast whoops. It worked very well as far as I am concerned. I was surprised how agile the 400 was on wet logs and moss coverd rocks at low speeds. I just dont know what way to go with it. I suppose thats a good thing?????

Thanks for explaining what clicker dose what. Thats a big help. I did not even realize the big nut on the resivior turned! ? I labeled it all in my book and on the bike.

[696]

I went back to the factory setting and find it is VERY nice. I guess I didn't realize how nice it was when I first got my bike.

696

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2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed, Gray Wire Mod.

[WR_Jason]

oh, is that by chance with all the adjusters in the middle positions?

[696]

I don't know??? When I got my bike new I just recorded how many clicks I adjusted it, then brought them back. I'll look in my manual but best I can remember it gives a vage setting like 10 to 15 clicks standard.

696

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2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed, Gray Wire Mod.