Posted May 02, 2002 - 05:34 AM
Posted May 02, 2002 - 06:40 AM
Get 3 pieces of 4X4 wood, 2 or 3 foot long is fine.
3 tire irons - I like the ones with the curved section on one end.
Soapy water or WD-40 - I like the WD, it doesn't dry out as fast and it's really slick on the rims.
Warm tires in the sun for a while if you can.
Have a spare tube on hand - just in case.
Take the wheel off the bike and set it in the sun.
Take the 4X4's and make a triangle on the ground /_\
Set the wheel on the wood so the rim is supported but the sprocket/disk is off the ground
Loosen the rim lock but don't take the nut off
Let all the air out - I just pull the valve stem
Push the rim lock up into the tire - I just tap the end of the bolt with a hammer - lightly
"walk" on the tire to break the bead - standing on the tire wobble around in a circle until it's broken.
flip the wheel break the other bead - note breaking the bead is CRITICAL
I usually start removing the tire on the disk side of the rear wheel - less blood loss
Put the iron in and start to pull - lightly
Try not to take too deep a bite so you don't get the tube
CHECK THE BEAD - with your free hand and knees make sure BOTH beads are off the shoulder of the rim
I can't stress this enough, I fought tires for two years before is found out the "bottom" bead likes to work back up on the shoulder of the rim - if you reach under you can push it back off and hold it off with the tension on the iron.
The first couple will take some effort to pop over the rim but if the irons are bending and you hear yourself grunting to get it over CHECK THE BEADS...
Then it's just a matter of working your way around.
Now loose the nut on the tube and remove the tube
Flip the wheel and repeat - CHECK THE BEAD
Now the rim is in the middle
Grab the tire with one hand the rim with the other and pull the rim out.
Back on is harder to describe -
I use the irons to get the rim back in the "middle" of the new tire - spread a section of the tire with your hands and jam the rim in the middle then work it with the irons to get the wheel "in" the tire.
Now flop the wheel and tire back on the 4x4's
Iron the up side back on the rim
make sure you've got the rim lock push up in the tire - the tire is between the rim and the lock
Flip the tire
take the tube and start the valve stem through the hole in the rim - easy to say, hard to do!
Put the nut on the valve stem so you don't "get" to repeat the step above
Work the tube in all the way around the wheel - some people use baby powder on the tube
CHECK THE BEAD on the "down" side while you hold light tension with the iron on the first bite of the up side.
If the bead is up on the shoulder you'll feel the tire iron give as you push the bead off the shoulder with your feel hand.
Work your way around with small bites - feel for the tube - don't put the iron in too far to minimize the chance of pinching the tube.
check that the rim lock is under on this side.
HIT IT WITH AIR and hope you didn't pinch the tube.
tighten nut on the rim lock
Remount the wheel on the bike
Go have a beer
Hope this helps.
I'm just up at China Lake, P.M. me if you need help.
[ May 02, 2002: Message edited by: Chris in the Mojave ]
Posted May 02, 2002 - 07:24 AM
Here is a site with instructions and good links regarding tire changing.
Good tools and practice are required. 6 ply rear tires are tough to put on.
As Chris has said, when mounting a tire you need to make sure the portion of the tire that has been installed (inside the rim) does not grab the rim shoulder. The tire needs to move forward as the rest is being installed (stretched over the rim). Use a lube that evaporates. When all else fails take it to your dealer.
[ May 02, 2002: Message edited by: needsprayer ]
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