better starting



8 replies to this topic
  • kyker

Posted March 08, 2002 - 06:16 AM

#1

Q 1. ANY IDEAS ON GETTING A 2000 650R STARTED ON THE FIRST KICK . Q 2.WHO MAKES A ROTOR COVER AND A FORK GUARD FOR A 2000 650R.ANY SUGGESTIONS...

  • qadsan

Posted March 08, 2002 - 09:16 AM

#2

Originally posted by kyker:
Q 1. ANY IDEAS ON GETTING A 2000 650R STARTED ON THE FIRST KICK...


1) Make sure the jetting is spot on.
2) Make sure your valve clearances are good.
3) Make sure your spark plug is in excellent condition.
4) Use a good starting procedure.
5) Make sure your bike is uncorked.
6) Make sure your idle is turned up enough.

Make sure you're bike is jetted for your altitude and temperature. There's correction factors in your manual you can use to help you find a good starting point.

Once your bike is uncorked with the newer manifold, less restrictive exhaust tip and proper jetting, your bike should start easier if you haven't already done this.

This beast likes to be started a certain way and if you're from a two stroke world, then you'll have to learn a new procedure to get this thing running easier. To start this beast cold, you can try the following steps:

1) Turn the fuel on (make sure you have fresh fuel in your tank and don't use race or aviation gas, just regular unleaded).
2) Put the choke on all the way.
3) Make sure you do NOT give it any throttle until after your bike is idling for a few seconds! Some people find it best to grab the front brake while kicking, which keeps your hand from twisting the throttle while you kick. Give this a try because it works.
4) Slowly kick your bike over until you find that point of stiff resistance at TDC. If you've found TDC and there's not a lot of resistance, continue to slowly kick the bike until you find that point of stiff resistance. The auto-decompressor on these bikes sometimes doesn't work too well, so make sure you've found that point of stiff resistance at TDC, otherwise your kick will be wasted.
5) Pull the compression release in and kick the bike just slightly past TDC.
6) Give it a firm but smooth kick without giving it any gas.
7) Repeat steps 4 - 6 until she fires up.

If you're working her like a banshee, you'll be wasting a lot of effort to get her going. I find she that likes firm but gentle action to light her fire.

I'm sure there will be others here who will have their procedures, but give this a try and see what happens if you're not already doing this. Starting it after you've dumped it is another story and a very frustrating one at that sometimes.

Many of us on the Yahoo XR650R group bought Edelbrock pumper carbs for our XR650R's and our bikes all start real easy when cold, hot or when dumped. The fuel no longer runs out the carb when the bike is on it's side, there's no more hesitation when you give it a handful of throttle from down low and and we all have 1 - 2 kick start bikes now. Mine is a 1 kicker with this carb.

[ March 09, 2002: Message edited by: qadsan ]

  • terryhotshoe

Posted March 08, 2002 - 09:45 AM

#3

I was talking to baja designs this week about a fork and disk guard!Seems xr only is selling people a xr400 guard but some of them are complaining about the fit they said they baja never heard of that and were going to give them xr onlys a call.Also baja said in about 90 days one should be coming in.I have been waiting 1 year for one terry.

  • Craig_Mitchell

Posted March 08, 2002 - 09:20 PM

#4

I agree with Quadsan excepy for no. 3

As soon as my xr fires up, I give it some
throttle to prevent stalling.

Also, even though I'm 6 foot, I use a stone
or kerb for extra hight and power.


cheers, Craig

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  • 1WldDr

Posted March 09, 2002 - 06:56 AM

#5

In regards to a fork guard, the only people I have found who makes one is Berg Racing USA http://www.bergracingusa.com/home.html I ordered mine from Baja Designs. No one makes a front brake disc guard yet (and it has been two years since this bike has been out! Supposedly, Acerbis is working on one). The Berg fits very well, and is of carbon fiber. Ran me around $70.

Starting procedure on the XR is a bitch! In fact it is the reason I am selling it (it is a 2002). I am only 5'7" and just can't get over it to kick it, and no one yet makes a shorter link for the suspension (again, yet). The above procedure works well when it is cold (however, I have found in So. Cal. if it not cold outside, it only needs half choke, as on full choke it will not start.

As for a flooded bike, I got my info from Needsprayer and it worked like a charm. Since it was so helpful, I will pass it on.

Flooded technique:
1. Turn off gas
2. Pull in compression release
3. Open throttle wide open
4. Push on kill switch
5. Kick thru with release on about 6-10 times
6. Close throttle
7. Open gas
8. Place hand on front brake lever/master cylinder (very important to keep your hand off the throttle!).
9. Release kill switch
10. Kick thru as above (good smooth stroke).

Should fire on first or second kick. Needsprayer was a god teaching me this and it has consistantly worked, even in the heat of a race. Before then it took me about 10 minutes of kicking to get it going. Basically, you are clearing out and recharging the cylinder with this procedure Try it in your driveway several times before you go out, to get the right technique.

As for jetting I am at 500-1000 ft elevation. I have the stock carb, 172 main, 68 pilot (this makes a difference!), air screw 1.5 turns out, needle clip in #3. I run a Big Gun exhaust and a new UniFilter with cage air filter. Runs like a Banshee when it is fired.

Hope this helps.
Doc

  • qadsan

Posted March 09, 2002 - 09:40 AM

#6

Originally posted by 1WldDr:
...I am only 5'7" and just can't get over it to kick it, and no one yet makes a shorter link for the suspension (again, yet)...


You've probably explored all your options for lowering your bike, but I thought I'd post some info on this just incase any of it is new to you. Here's some threads to read that may be of some help - hopefully.

http://64.125.82.248...c&f=26&t=000146

http://64.125.82.248...=26&t=000402&p=

http://64.125.82.248...=26&t=000704&p=

I know the following are lowering links for the XR600 and XR650L, but maybe Devol makes them for the XR650R now???
http://www.bajadesig...uct_Code=100007

If none of this gives you any ideas, send Rob Barnum an email or give him a call to see if he has any ideas. He does suspension work on all kinds of bikes and professionally races an XR650R. He's probably got some ideas and I'm sure he'd be more than glad to discuss them with you. You can email him at sales@barnumspro.com or call him at (760)868-8097

  • qadsan

Posted March 09, 2002 - 08:36 PM

#7

Hey 1WldDr,

Have you seen this yet?
http://www.dual-star...ering_Links.htm

Check out the XR650R lowering link. It costs ¥22,800.
http://www.shikoku.n...awa/xr650r.html

  • Bob_J

Posted March 10, 2002 - 05:44 PM

#8

I have to agree with the above post about starting after dumping the bike, except for the kill switch!! I don't use the switch, but use the Comp Release and W/O throttle and kick until she backfires, then the standard start routine will work on 1 or 2 kicks. Worked for me just this morning at Glamis, Ca. after falling and the bike being on it's side and the tank being downhill and fuel pouring all over the place, ( Bike still runing for a few seconds), lifted it up (with some help) and let the fuel pour out of the vents etc. About 10 kicks with the comp release pulled/ throttle wide open, she backfires hard, and then starts on the next kick with the normal routine.

Good luck
Bob J

[ March 10, 2002: Message edited by: Bob J ]

  • 1WldDr

Posted March 11, 2002 - 08:56 AM

#9

Thanks all for the feedback about the lowering links.

I checked the Dual Star site and even wrote them an email. Got no response. So as of yet, no link exists. However, the above link from Qadsan, went to a ?Japanese? site that had one pictured, the "Woods" shortening link. Anyone heard of them?

Doc





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