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What Flywheel Glue to use 03 450?


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A starter clutch failure has been the only thing to go wrong with my bike from way to much use. In the repair of the starter clutch one must remove the flywheel. In removing the flywheel my crankshaft end mushroomed! The loctite that the factory uses # 648 has a tensile strength of 4000psi and takes a lot of heat too, making things almost impossible to get apart! So now that I have spent some amount of time to clean the threads back up. I fear using the 648 loctite again if I need to remove the flywheel for normal maintenance of the engine. So the question is has anyone used a loctite other than 648 to glue the flywheel? And I would strongly suggest that the nut be left on the very end of the shaft when using a puller to give the area extra strenght. What a pain!

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I would use Loctite 680 for 4000 psi rating and works well for bearings in mounts.

Bearing

Mount 680

High Strength/

Relaxed Fits

High strength, medium viscosity

anaerobic adhesive for slip fit

assemblies. Provides 4,000 psi

shear strength on steel. Fixtures in

10 minutes at room temperature.

Suggested Applications: Replaces set

screws, replaces clamp rings, replaces

snap rings, wheel bearings, idler

shaft, press fit bearings

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With the amount of riding time on the bike and not having a problem, I cant see spending money on the 04 mods. Spending the money on a new bike yes! Having to use a product like 648 Loctite to secure the flywheel is crazy! I can say when done right the flywheel doesnt want to come off, but thats the problem with using a permament compound like the 648 its not made to come apart ever! Indy is right on the 680 Loctite and its good to 300 degrees, which is 150 degrees less than the 648 and its what I will use. I doubt a 04 mod can make up for a bad taper with no glue, and would it be wise to try it? Of the other 03 bikes sold in this area, none have had a flywheel problem yet. My starter clutch gear was also bad, wear marks on contact surface.

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The rest of the parts look like new. The area where the starter clutch contacts the gear is really chewed up but the clutch doesnt look bad. I have a Rekluse clutch and it has some drag when in gear which I think finished off what starter clutch I had. My dealer did not want to talk about upgrades or poor design, but he did loan me a flywheel puller! I thought about the mods and a fresh top end, but putting the money on a new bike would make more sense. My wife says I can get a second job to pay for it.

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I doubt a 04 mod can make up for a bad taper with no glue

Here's my 2 cents. I agree with RichBaker on this one. Loctiting the flywheel on only results in carnage elswhere (starter clutch, idler gears, starter motor, etc) since the energy generated in a kickback must now be absorbed elsewhere. The loctite fix was Yamaha's inept attempt to "fix" the problem before they actually had found the root cause and IMO the flywheel taper was never the issue. The cost of a key is a lot less than the other damage that has resulted from the TSB. If it were me I'd buy the 04 parts or pull the idler gear and kickstart it. I hate riding a bike that I know may let me down (which is why I don't ride a Honda ?).

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  • 3 years later...

I'm technically incompetent and used Loctite 243 for the starter clutch bolts and the flywheel nut and never had any drama.

Should be easy enough to take apart also.

I never checked the temp / pressure charts before using it - to be honest it never crossed my mind until I read this thread that I may have used too "lightweight" a glue.

Hopefully never have to remove teh damn thing again.

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I'm technically incompetent and used Loctite 243 for the starter clutch bolts and the flywheel nut and never had any drama.

Should be easy enough to take apart also.

I never checked the temp / pressure charts before using it - to be honest it never crossed my mind until I read this thread that I may have used too "lightweight" a glue.

Hopefully never have to remove teh damn thing again.

I've had the rotor off a coupla times to change the timing chain, then a coupla times changing the Starter Clutch and the latest, a re-build!

Used the blue 243 same as you dazzabb and no problems!

Only ever had problems getting it off the first time! What a drama, had to take it to a mechanic who'd done this before! He took to it with a big impact gun, rattling the rotor from left to right by latching on to the big nut on the rotor...

When i think back now, I reckon it was put on with the 648 from the factory!!!!

The only reason I used the 648 this time was because of how easy it all came apart when dis-assembling for the rebuild, hardly had to use the flywheel puller, scary....

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I've had the rotor off a coupla times to change the timing chain, then a coupla times changing the Starter Clutch and the latest, a re-build!

Used the blue 243 same as you dazzabb and no problems!

Only ever had problems getting it off the first time! What a drama, had to take it to a mechanic who'd done this before! He took to it with a big impact gun, rattling the rotor from left to right by latching on to the big nut on the rotor...

When i think back now, I reckon it was put on with the red 648 from the factory!!!!

The only reason I used the red this time was because of how easy it all came apart when dis-assembling for the rebuild, hardly had to use the flywheel puller, scary....

Yeah that's a bit of a worry alright

You've got me thinking now..........?

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