Rekluse Z-Start Clutch review


33 replies to this topic
  • youngwerth

Posted August 26, 2004 - 07:32 PM

#21

No bump start, with the z-Start; well in an emergency you can put in an extra drive plate and turn it into a manual clutch but that's a pain...

If you're trail riding a YZ-450, 5 tungsten carbide balls works very well. For a WR-450, I think 5 tungsten carbide balls is too abrupt for the stock gearing but if you like to ride around in 3rd gear all the time, the 5 tungsten carbide balls would work well. 10 tungsten carbide balls will essentially turn the 450 into an on/off clutch, not good IMO.

I don't think either the YZ or the WR 426s needs the tungsten carbide balls for trail riding but again, if you really like to lug the motor in 3rd gear, then it's a good addition.

We try to setup each bike to give a good adjustment range for it's intended use. The TC balls are just another tuning option.

One more thing... I was just doing an install on an '04 WR-450. The '04 seemed to have a lot less clutch cable slack and more clutch cable friction than the last '03 I installed one in. Make sure the clutch cable slack is pulled up towards the bars (there is a rubber grommet on the frame that you can pull the cable through) so the cable can move freely into the the z-Start perch adjuster.

Also, if you run the z-Start perch adjuster, don't forget to check for proper cable slack from time to time. This seems to confuse quite a few people... The z-Start perch adjuster only adjusts engagement speed and engagement rate. The original perch cable length adjuster must still be used to adjust for proper cable slack. The tricky part is to adjust your cable slack with the bike in neutral and the engine revved to at least 3000 RPMs (so the z-Start is engaged). You're looking for about a nickels worth of play between the lever and perch (just like your Yamaha manual tells you).

  • montanaWR250F

Posted August 27, 2004 - 02:45 PM

#22

Works great for dead engine starts in gear and taking off quick for racing.

Works great for spinning the bike 180 degrees in tight spaces without worrying about killing the engine.

Works great for MX doing major "brake checks" and irritating the MX'ers with superior cornering speed.

Don't have to be perfect with the clutch and can make more mistakes (especially when tired) and still get thru nasties or go faster.

Traction from rear wheel wheel makes it tougher to roost on your riding buddies.

When going thru really gnarly trees and branches can use left hand to brush back the offending item or be able to find that camel back drinking nib that is slung in the wrong place.

Can now safely carry a 15 pound watermelon from grocery store to home without worrying about stop lights.

Theft detterent. Everyone who has seen the bike has asked where did I get the "quick" disconnect lever so that no one can steal the Street Legal WR.

Only problem I have had was when I had to "bull dog" a bike down really steep section of trail. I had not had to do that in a few years so that would be the only time having the rear wheel always turning/free-wheeling is a problem. Can get a rear hand brake-but I can surely live without that and the clutch. That accounts to about 1% of most trail riding.

  • Shuffler

Posted September 14, 2004 - 07:36 PM

#23

I am seriously considering this option. I've been to their website; I like the idea of having the rear brake on the left lever, but they say that it also 'requires' their hot start lever. Why?? How could the brake lever 'require' a hot start lever when I already have that on the carb? I'd just assume leave it there. Am I missing something? Also, if I go with the zStart, do I need to buy their $139.00 clutch cover as well, for added oil capacity, or does it matter? Finally, the external adjuster is a must...for $100 I'd just assume not have to drain the oil and pull the clutch cover for the sake of adjustment. Speaking of which, what's all this talk about "5 balls", "10 balls", etc.? What does Rekluse recommend for the WR426 rider who spends most of his time on trails? I'm sure these questions have been asked in other threads, but it's late, I'm tired, and I don't feel like sifting. :thumbsup:

  • Desracer

Posted September 14, 2004 - 10:42 PM

#24

I have had a loud squealing from the clutch when pulling a grade and going really slow. When I speed up it the noise goes away. I did it with fresh and old oil and everything works fine. The noise sounds like metal to metal when it starts to seize. When I say slow I have just enough forward speed or lack of to barely move ahead, its really neat till this squeal starts. All clearances are good and I am using the small spring, any Ideas? or just go faster.

  • ncmountainman

Posted September 15, 2004 - 06:26 AM

#25

go faster! drive it like ya stole it and the funny noises won't bother you so much! :thumbsup:

  • oldbones

Posted September 15, 2004 - 06:44 AM

#26

Shuffler, No, you don't need another hot start lever, they may be referring to your decomp lever though... Although, it has it's own perch on the 426 so it shouldn't be a problem either.

No you don't NEED to buy the clutch cover.

Buy the external adjuster if you think you need it, but I wouldn't. I would install the rekluse without it first, give it a try, then if you decide you want a lever (I can't imagine why...) then put one on after. You already have external adjustment, down at the other end of where your current clutch cable runs.

Don't worry about the 5 or 10 balls talk, it doesn't really apply to your bike. The standard balls supplied with the new clutch work perfect for me in my 426.

For a WR426 rider that spends his time on trails, anyone that has ridden one will recommend BUY IT! Trust in us our brother, it's a good investment. :thumbsup:

  • Shuffler

Posted September 15, 2004 - 08:19 AM

#27

"You already have external adjustment, down at the other end of where your current clutch cable runs." How does that work? Do I need to keep the stock clutch cable in place, and is adjustment still possible by removing it? Why would Rekluse still offer an external adjuster of their own? BTW, thanks for the feedback - much appreciated.

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  • oldbones

Posted September 15, 2004 - 11:20 AM

#28

You remove the stock lever and cable and replace it with a small spring and double nut adjustment arrangement at the clutch actuating arm (bottom end of your current cable). To adjust the engagement RPM takes two 10mm wrenches and less than a minute.

The perch adjuster is offered (I think) mainly so you can retain a lever if you think you need it. You don't.

  • tool

Posted September 15, 2004 - 01:39 PM

#29

The perch adjuster is offered (I think) mainly so you can retain a lever if you think you need it. You don't.


he may. some people want total control of the clutch, some people want to forget its there.

  • ncmountainman

Posted September 15, 2004 - 06:24 PM

#30

i've only got 3 hrs on mine and have already found several uses for the clutch lever....1- i was going up a steep soft loam hill in third gear and felt it start to drag a little fanned the clutch and took off like a rocket! 2- i have the stall set right at idle and though there is no drag if i find myself sitting still more than a couple seconds i pull the lever and hold it in to avoid any slight slippage. 3.when taking off in a holeshot some situations require dumping the clutch because with the stall low it tends to want to put you on your backside if the traction is too good. 4- it makes me feel better having control. 5- it doesn't take any wrenches to adjust the perch mount.6- when starting in gear i noticed it was better to pull in lever or a sudden lurch forward may occur. i'm sure after more use i'll find other reasons that its a good thing to have. :thumbsup: :awww: oh and finding neutral is easier if you pull the lever. :devil:

  • Ride

Posted September 15, 2004 - 06:54 PM

#31

Works great for dead engine starts in gear and taking off quick for racing.

Works great for spinning the bike 180 degrees in tight spaces without worrying about killing the engine.

Works great for MX doing major "brake checks" and irritating the MX'ers with superior cornering speed.

Don't have to be perfect with the clutch and can make more mistakes (especially when tired) and still get thru nasties or go faster.

Traction from rear wheel wheel makes it tougher to roost on your riding buddies.

When going thru really gnarly trees and branches can use left hand to brush back the offending item or be able to find that camel back drinking nib that is slung in the wrong place.

Can now safely carry a 15 pound watermelon from grocery store to home without worrying about stop lights.

Theft detterent. Everyone who has seen the bike has asked where did I get the "quick" disconnect lever so that no one can steal the Street Legal WR.

Only problem I have had was when I had to "bull dog" a bike down really steep section of trail. I had not had to do that in a few years so that would be the only time having the rear wheel always turning/free-wheeling is a problem. Can get a rear hand brake-but I can surely live without that and the clutch. That accounts to about 1% of most trail riding.


Great review :devil:

I love mine on my TE450 Husky. With the hydro clutch the lever works better than before... super light, I mean the lightest I have ever felt. I like to pull the clutch on down hills and free wheel.

As for the "balls" they give you two different weights and that allows you to adjust how the clutch enguages.

:thumbsup:

  • Shuffler

Posted September 16, 2004 - 06:13 PM

#32

Jon from Rekluse emailed me back on an inquiry I'd made and he said they're working on a combo clutch/rear brake lever setup that sounds like the hot ticket. I know some guys who run the RevLoc and say that they like having the clutch available "just in case....". I'll be getting a Z-Start at some point, just not sure when. Thanks for all the feedback! :thumbsup:

  • Reedus

Posted September 26, 2007 - 07:34 PM

#33

Just out of curiosity, I don't have the adjuster on my rekluse that attaches to the clutch arm below the carb. The bike still works, but how bad is it on the rekluse to ride it without the little spring in place?

  • wheelsoff

Posted September 27, 2007 - 08:50 AM

#34

Just out of curiosity, I don't have the adjuster on my rekluse that attaches to the clutch arm below the carb. The bike still works, but how bad is it on the rekluse to ride it without the little spring in place?


I'm assuming this is not the z-Start Pro? If that's the case, then you either need the external adjuster that attaches to the clutch arm or the Perch Adjuster mounted near your clutch lever.




 
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