What type of oil do you use??


61 replies to this topic
  • Smegol

Posted August 25, 2004 - 07:00 PM

#41

Motul 5100 Ester semi-synthetic

Its cheap and good. Comes out cleaner than the Bel-Ray ThumperX or whatever its called. Its the frequency at which it is changed thats important.

  • Smegol

Posted August 25, 2004 - 07:00 PM

#42

Motul 5100 Ester semi-synthetic

Its cheap and good. Comes out cleaner than the Bel-Ray ThumperX or whatever its called. Its the frequency at which it is changed thats important.

  • grayracer513

Posted August 25, 2004 - 08:17 PM

#43

I hope your answer was suppose to be funny. W = "Winter"???


Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

Read this ....

http://www.vtr.org/m...l-overview.html


OK, I missed this before. No, it wasn’t supposed to be funny, winter is what the w stands for, according to at least 5 authoritative sources I learned that from many moons past.

While it is true that the actual technology of manufacturing a multi-vis oil starts with a lighter oil and preventing it from thickening, remember why multi-grades exist at all, and how viscosity is rated.

Viscosity, as the article points out, is rather arbitrarily assigned to oils based on their fluid characteristics at 100 degrees Celsius (I almost said centigrade, but then you’d know how old I am). So, a 10w-40 and a 40 weight oil have the same “flowability”, to use the author’s word, at that temperature. That’s important to know because oil gets that hot in normal operation, and it's how oil acts when it's hot that matters most.

Multi-grade oil was designed to address the problem of oil thickening, and flowing and circulating poorly during cold starts at lower, “winter” temperatures because of it. Back before even I was born, folks in Minnesota and upstate New York had a tough choice to make. They could run 20 weight and take it real easy on the engine after it got warmed up, or 30 weight and put a Bunsen burner under the engine for 20 minutes before they started it up. Multi-gradess fixed this problem because they were heavy enough when hot, but didn’t thicken up when cold. Nobody cared that it was actually the other way around, that’s how it worked. It was, as he said, "another way of looking at it". I could easily run a straight 40 most of the year where I live, but it's useful to have a lower equivalent viscosity on a cold start even in this climate, and the synthetic blend would be rated a multi anyway.

The w character does stand for winter. If it stood for “weight”, for instance, it would more correctly follow the second number rather than the first. Note that you never see an SAE 30 labeled “30W” except maybe in ad copy. The first number is comparing the oil to a single grade petroleum product at lower, winter temperatures, and the second is a direct measure of the oil’s behavior at 100 degrees (C, or 212 F).

As he points out, one of the things that make synthetics and synthetic blends better is that they behave like multi-viscosity oils by nature, and so don’t have the problems associated with the polymers that are used to make petroleum oils into multis.

Either way, Mobil 1 is a good oil. In fact it’s excellent. Chevrolet insists on it if you want to keep your Corvette under warranty. I use it in my truck, my Camaro, and my Volvo turbo (the only one I use a 40 in). But I don't use it in my bikes. If they made a 40 weight SG, or an MA, I would.

So, my position is the same; 50s are too thick, and all SJ/SL oils are missing something I think is important. I use Golden Spectra 10w-40, API SG, JASO MA.

But I will buy you a beer if you ever get out to San Diego County. :thumbsup: THEN we can have a pissin' match!

  • RJB

Posted August 27, 2004 - 05:27 PM

#44

Not to be different from the norm, but Shell Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic diesel oil here. Why?

Mobil 1 15w40 red cap made the clutch noise and grabbiness in my 00 worse. Plus it's around $5/quart.

The Rotella T is a diesel heavy duty oil. Is $12/gallon. Is rated for turbochargers and catepillar clutches, which helps it resist shearing due to gears unlike normal car oils. Since it is multigrade, the 5w helps it pour nice and easy, plus the 40 highrange is right in line.

Main reason - I run it in every vehicle I own - boat with Chevy 350, Tahoe with 350, Silverado with 5.3, and the bike. I first heard of it with LS1 Camaro guys using it, and haven't had an issue. There are also some interesting positive threads on the bobistheoilguy site concerning this oil.

Finally - someone using a decent oil :thumbsup:

  • WR426madness

Posted August 27, 2004 - 05:54 PM

#45

Just made the switch to Mobil1 yesterday, guess we'll see what happens. :thumbsup:

  • Satch0922

Posted August 27, 2004 - 06:24 PM

#46

Just made the switch to Mobil1 yesterday, guess we'll see what happens. :thumbsup:


You won't be disappointed I promise. All the theory in the world means nothing......beating a 426 every weekend for 2 years without a top end rebuild, clutch replacement or a mechanical failure speakes volumes.

  • grayracer513

Posted August 27, 2004 - 10:55 PM

#47

beating a 426 every weekend for 2 years without a top end rebuild...


...is pretty ordinary, don't you think? Those things are like a 2 wheel Volvo on steroids. The first one I ever met personally (a '00. It was the bike that told me four strokes were all the way back) is a legitimate abuse case. I try to tell people they need to maintain their bikes and they look at me and say, "George doesn't! His runs fine."

I usually say something like, "Nevermind that. There's something wrong with his", or "It was exposed to radiation", or "That's not true, he's changed it twice since he bought it." The thing will probably be running 10 years from now. He'll have to cut the head off it to do it's first valve job. What is it made of? :thumbsup:

  • Satch0922

Posted August 28, 2004 - 03:44 AM

#48

Ok then...if that's the case...this thread was a waste of time. Don't change your oil, use whatever you want....save your money......

  • stavendirtbike

Posted August 28, 2004 - 10:55 AM

#49

My Yamaha/Honda dealer says Yamalube is an awful oil :thumbsup: He actually recommends that I run Honda GN4 in my yz250f. Does that sound right to you guys? I thought yamalube makes a good oil. In fact, I really liked their 2stroke premix.

  • therapture

Posted August 28, 2004 - 11:33 AM

#50

A pissing match is what's going on in the thread on "finding the loudest pipe". We're just talking motor oil.



Damn! Where IS that thread, I have got the loudest pipe for sure!!!!!! :thumbsup:

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  • thumper9740

Posted August 30, 2004 - 08:37 AM

#51

Im only new here but i use motul 300v, the blokes at the dealer recommended it, might give mobil red cap a go if i can find it as i live in australia !!!!!!!

  • noslo98

Posted August 30, 2004 - 08:41 AM

#52

I usa 100% synthetic Amsoil no problems apd use Torco T-4 petrolm belnd for break in.

  • steveO

Posted August 30, 2004 - 04:01 PM

#53

I use YamaLube 4R and change it every 2nd or 3rd ride.

  • DrThumper

Posted August 31, 2004 - 01:48 PM

#54

Mobil 1 15w40 red cap made the clutch noise and grabbiness in my 00 worse.

...your clutch problem is nothing to do with your oil...its the clutch. The '00 clutch is a peice of crap, do the '01 mod. I did, and I use M1 Red Cap before and after the mod, made no difference...its the clutch, don't blame the oil! When I first got my bike I used MC oil, then car oil w/ modifiers (didn't know any better back then)...then M1, I think maybe it went bad with the car oil modifiers, but it never felt right from the start untill I did the '01 mod!

  • sparks426

Posted September 02, 2004 - 07:32 AM

#55

Trust me, it was the oil, not the mod. I have done the mod since, but the grabbiness was not bad before I tried the red cap, was horrible with it, and went almost away when I quit using it. With the 01 mod there's no problem, but there was a perceivable difference using the M1.

  • Satch0922

Posted September 02, 2004 - 07:53 AM

#56

Been using Mobil one Red Cap for 2 years....no problems and I am still on the stock clutch.

  • sparks426

Posted September 02, 2004 - 08:05 AM

#57

Yeah, I know several people who have had great results with it, but I didn't.

  • Ga426owner

Posted September 02, 2004 - 12:45 PM

#58

Mobil 1 15w40 red cap made the clutch noise and grabbiness in my 00 worse.

...your clutch problem is nothing to do with your oil...its the clutch. The '00 clutch is a peice of crap, do the '01 mod. I did, and I use M1 Red Cap before and after the mod, made no difference...its the clutch, don't blame the oil! When I first got my bike I used MC oil, then car oil w/ modifiers (didn't know any better back then)...then M1, I think maybe it went bad with the car oil modifiers, but it never felt right from the start untill I did the '01 mod!


Interesting - my 03 with the clutch mod - and Yamalube4R made the clutch grabby - I switched to 15 50 Red cap and it is butter smooth.

  • Chipstien

Posted September 12, 2004 - 08:52 AM

#59

I use Silkolene Pro 4 15/50. I use the full synthetic because I change oil about every 50-60 hours. I only trail ride so there is no need to change oil every other ride. I feel that if you are one that changes your oil every ride then running the cheapest thing you could find would be fine. You won't notice any difference between oils. I used to run Mobile Red Cap in my KX250 with absolutely no adverse effects. The only reason I do not run it anymore is because I want to run oil that is designed for motorcycles only. However I don't think it really matters too much. You will probably think this is funny but the only reason I am running the Silkolene is because it is RED. <font color="black"> It is that much easier to see. :thumbsup:

BTW, I am too still on the factory clutch and ride every other Sat for 8 hours year round..... snow don't stop me. :devil:

  • yzf_rider400

Posted September 13, 2004 - 03:57 PM

#60

Just picked up some Shell Rotella T 15W40. Thought I'd give it a shot and at under $8 a gallon it was cheap compared to everything else.





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