Posted June 21, 2001 - 06:43 AM
Posted June 21, 2001 - 07:23 AM
I was able to bend the pin for the grey wire so that the connector could be closed again without the grey wire connection being made. That way I didn't have to clip the wire.
Posted June 21, 2001 - 07:35 AM
On my 2000 WR the infamous gray wire is located on the bottom of the wire harness under the frame on the right hand side. Be careful - if the wires are dusty all of them look gray. The one you want to disconnect (don't snip) does have a two wire black connector.
What I did was cut the forward zip-tie that holds the harness tight, disconnect the black connector, push one end of the connector through to the left hand side of the bike (this gives you room to work), using a small flat head screwdriver I disconnected the gray wire from the connector (that sounds weird) and folded the wire over onto itself and taped it real good, squirt some silicone into the hole on the connector, and put it all back together. Hope that makes sense. I need more coffee…
I believe that this gray wire thing is the missing link from the WR (YZ timed) to the YZ. I've ridden YZs and always blamed the difference in the mid-range on gearing. Now the thing has the YZ feel I've been after. Smiles!
Posted June 21, 2001 - 08:36 AM
Thanks for the info guys.
Posted June 21, 2001 - 08:45 AM
I do not know yet. I will be switching back to the WR timing this week to test it out. Based on the magnitude of change it made on the WR250F - I have to believe that this will be benificial regardless of the cam timing.
Posted June 21, 2001 - 01:17 PM
Posted June 21, 2001 - 01:36 PM
Posted June 21, 2001 - 01:58 PM
I would imagine it benefits wr timed engines as well as yz timed units. Give it a try, heck, it's free and you could put it back if you want.
Posted June 21, 2001 - 02:18 PM
Posted June 21, 2001 - 02:34 PM
The 99 is on the right side of the frame backbone. Yes, I did cut mine!
'99 WZ/YR (you choose!) with ALL YZ mods, de-octopused, DSP Doug Henry airbox w/ velocity stack, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, forked over by Pro-Action (and then fixed by me), OEM YZ tank, IMS YZ seat, carb mods by Jim Dean, Andy in OZ, & Sir "Taffy" from Jolly Old England, AMA, NESC, and I use MOBIL 1 Oil, with ZERO problems.
Posted June 21, 2001 - 08:22 PM
I have a 2000 WR with stock timing.Cutting the wire made a very noticeable difference.Runs much better.No surging in the midrange.
Posted June 22, 2001 - 02:12 AM
Thanks to all for the help and the testing.
Posted June 22, 2001 - 03:55 AM
Posted June 22, 2001 - 08:01 AM
Posted June 22, 2001 - 08:18 AM
I'm still in the process of rebuilding the engine so my 99 is not running right now. I spliced in a toggle switch on the gray wire to test it when it's up and running again. But, does the wire need to be grounded? I thought everyone was just disconnecting the wire and taping it off or removing the pin so that the circuit wasn't completed.
[This message has been edited by Rich in Orlando (edited 06-22-2001).]
Posted June 22, 2001 - 09:40 PM
Once I get to ride again, I'll test this again.
Posted June 22, 2001 - 09:47 PM
Information above states it may need to be grounded.
PS.. I crashed on the left side again last night just for you!
Posted June 22, 2001 - 09:53 PM
To be clear: The grey wire out of the CDI is connected to NOTHING!
Posted June 23, 2001 - 08:45 AM
Mike, funny I ALWAYS crash on the left. Maybe that's why my radiator is bent on the left and pristine on the right? How are those beer stickers holding up?