Posted August 13, 2002 - 12:40 PM
Posted August 13, 2002 - 01:48 PM
Some of the engineer types in here have said that it is imperative that you weld the barrel back on, so I did.
If you have any more questions, I can probably post a picture tomorrow.
Posted August 13, 2002 - 06:29 PM
The other thing you need to do to complete this mod is the swap the springs from left side to right side and vice versa...
[ August 13, 2002: Message edited by: yamaha.dude ]
Posted August 13, 2002 - 07:32 PM
Posted August 13, 2002 - 08:59 PM
Posted August 14, 2002 - 05:54 AM
Cut the barrels of the bottom of the pegs,now weld them to the top of the pegs,and swap springs. By doing this you have dropped and moved the pegs back about 1/2".
Posted August 14, 2002 - 06:07 AM
Once this is done do the following
<ul type="square">[*]de-burr all edges around the spacer and peg (Effectivly)[*]No Need to weld[*]grease heavly -- Pin and Inside of Spacer / Peg[*]Springs now have to be swapped right to left side[*]Enjoy the 1/2 inch back and 1/2 inch down position[/list]
This was in my opinion the best mod for ergo's I made. I am a tall rider and my feet are huge, they used to get caught up in the shifter whil standing not any more.
You will have to adjust your back brake though.
Someone also had posted Pics do a search on peg mod
Here is the orig link and a pic
[ August 14, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]
Posted August 14, 2002 - 10:32 AM
I dont know if this happens to anyone else, but I have accidently hit the rear brake going into more than one set of woops. This is a very bad idea, and Ive wanted to move the brake forward about an inch ever since I got this bike. If you look straight down on the bike, the shifter is about an inch further foward than the brake. My Honda has them in the same place, which make sense to me.
Posted August 14, 2002 - 10:35 AM
The only way your gonna cut stainless is to bring it to a machine shop unless you know someone with a small band saw.
You might try a dremal with a bunch of the fine fiber cutting wheels....
Posted August 14, 2002 - 10:48 AM
They cut through almost anything.
I use them in my shop to cut hardened steel.
Posted August 15, 2002 - 08:58 AM
Posted August 15, 2002 - 09:38 PM
Originally posted by Shawn Mc:
Anybody have any idea how to cut a stainless steel IMS peg? 24 hacksaw blades is not a good answer either.
A chop saw will work, but it is still a bit tedious. I would think a band saw would only work w/ a carbide blade or something harder than a standard steel blade.
How does the right side IMS peg get along w/ the kick starter? I had a set of Pro Circuit pegs but took them off because it looked like I was just going to gouge a crater in my starter and eventually break it in half. Instead of hitting a squared-up pad the starter hit the sharp edge of the peg. I’d like to try those IMS pegs but I’m wary of what they will do to the kick starter.
Posted August 15, 2002 - 12:42 PM
i got a piece of rubber fuel line that barely fit over the kickstarter and worked it down to where it was hitting, now the rubber is taking blow. It will wear down someday,then put another on.I've also been trying not to kick it so hard.If it's in the sweet spot,you can kick it easy without hitting the kickstarter.
Posted April 30, 2003 - 08:55 PM
Posted May 01, 2003 - 03:50 AM
Posted May 01, 2003 - 05:00 AM
I weld so there is no problem doing that just want to be sure its done right. also anyone know of any aftermarket pegs that lower the position?
IMS and Fastway both do. I ordered a set of IMS Pro Series lowered for my 450( the set I cut are on my 250). They came ready to go, just pull the old pegs and swap the springs!
Posted May 01, 2003 - 05:21 AM
Posted May 01, 2003 - 06:27 AM
Posted May 01, 2003 - 06:29 AM
Yamaha YZ450F 2017 by Chris.GVS
James Stewart back on a YZ450F by YamaLink
First Hare scramble tips by dhend8