Looking for xr 600 mods

4 replies to this topic
  • Honda_Man_4

Posted July 05, 2004 - 12:18 PM


Hey eveyone! I just bought a '98 xr 600 and am looking for a website where i could get an owners manual, a desert tank, a paddle tire and some graphics. Do any of you know of any sites where i could find this stuff?

  • 600ish

Posted July 05, 2004 - 03:24 PM


I have a 94' XR600 I bought about 9 months ago and it was all stock and I have installed Renthal Bars, IMS Super Stock wide pegs, Acerbis hand guards, Grips, an IMS red 4.0 Gal tank, new tires, rotors and pads, an RK Gold X-Ring chain, Ironman sprockets(highly recommended). I also painted all of the plastic black with Krylon Fusion spray paint which is holding up great for months now. I also installed an NGK Iridium plug (part no. DPR8EIX-9) which makes starting the bike MUCH easier. I got this plug at Advance Auto Parts, They had to order them for me. I also installed a K&N Air & oil Filter. I also just started using Mobil One MX4T fully synthetic oil, which I've read and heard nothing but goods things about. I also installed a white Brothers E-Series silencer and Stainless steel works headpipe. I have a red Clarke 5.0 Gallon tank sitting brand new in the box that I waited too long to return that was just too big for me since I'm riding in Georgia and all of our riding is in the woods and I don't need the range that west coast riders do. No one I ride with even has close to my 4.0 gallon tank I have on my bike so I'll just be a gas carrier for every one else.If you are intersted in this tank, I am looking to sell it for what I paid which is $152.00+shipping. My 4.0 gallon cost me $200, go figure? I bought all of this stuff on www.denniskirk.com and www.rockymountainmc.com. Just enter in your bike year and model and it will give you everything available for the 600. I shopped around and these 2 sites were by far the best. Good Luck. I couldn't be happier with mine. No problems other than bent bars and a few broken levers caused by rocks coming up under the handguards on a couple of muddy slides to the ground

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  • rg_series

Posted July 05, 2004 - 03:30 PM


I have an extra desert tank, graphics/seat cover set, and paddle tire that I would consider selling. PM me if you are interested.

  • 600ish

Posted July 05, 2004 - 03:53 PM


www.themotorbookstore.com for Haynes and Clymer Manuals. I have both and only use the Haynes manual, which is much better and laid out very well.

  • Thumprding

Posted July 06, 2004 - 06:03 AM


For a Manual I would go to E-bay. There is always one listed. I have both a Haynes and a Clymer to go along with the factory manual. I normally use the factory manual unless I want a cross reference.

E-bay normally has one listed. If you want a new one a Clark tank works out fine. I think you can get one in 4 or 5 gallons.

It is great owning a older bike that is not made anymore. You can find all kinds of discontinued graphics. I have a Factory effect seat cover and graphics kit that I picked up for $35. Dennis kirk is good to see what is currently available. www.mxsouth.come is also good to see what is available. Do some surfing you can find lots of graphics and seat covers.

Paddle tire
GBC or Chenshin. Used both, both work fine.

Modifications to the bike
The first thing I would do is work on the suspension. The suspension on a XR600R is plush but also bottoms real easy. Put in the correct springs then change the fork oil to a heavier weight and then play with the level. For the shock an oil change and Nitrogen recharge would not hurt. I would suggest stepping the oil weight up to the next level.

There are a host of changes you can make. Thumper Racing and Al Bakers XR's only has a variety of configurations. The cheap power increases are to allow the engine to breath. Take off the air box snorkel, chunk the stock muffler, check the head pipe for over penetrated welds where it joins the head and grind them smooth. Have some one match the head exhaust ports to the stock header. You really don't need to change the stock header because it is a fine unit.

When you take off the air box snorkel make sure you seal the area between the seat base and air box. There is a rubber flap on the seat base that covers where it mates up the air box. It does not seal that well and all kinds of junk gets thrown up by the rear tire between the flap and air box. I put a piece of foam rubber on the seat base and it seals this joint very well. Oh and install a K&N filter and rejett.

Mufflers are a some what of a hard choice.
For more mid range and top end a Big Gun, White Brothers E series and even an older FMF Mega Max is a good choice. I currently run a Supertrap IDS with 12 discs. Does not have the top end rev capability of the FMF Mega Max I used to run but I never really reved it that hard. I like the lines of the Supertrapp and I got it cheap.

If you really get into the motor what is normally done is the compression is raised to 10:1 or 10.5:1, a higher lift longer duration cam is installed and normally an aftermarket pumper type carb. An Edlebrock Quick Silver is the carb of choice.

Things to pay attention to.
The valves. Stay up on the Clearence adjustment. It is easy to do and after a few times of doing it you can check and set them in about 1/2 an hour. Read a manual and it explains it all and is simple.

Oil filter. Make sure the hole is towards the engine not out!

Rear wheel spacer drive side.
The rear axle rides on the spacer which is pressed fit into the bearing. The spacer stays put and rotates around the axle. What will feel like worn rear wheel bearings is actually a worn spacer. Taking it out the first time is a trick but after you do it once you understand how to do it. Again this is where a manual helps. My suggestion, is keep a good coating of grease bewteen the spacer and axle.

Front rotor
If you ride and crash in rocks you will find out the front rotor is pretty cheap. It bends fairly easy. It will feel like you have air in the front brakes. You actually don't you have a bent rotor that is pushing the pads back every time you let off the brakes. You can either put on a stronger rotor or just take a 10" adjustable and a pencil and spin the wheel and mark the high and low spots. Put the adjustable on the rotor and bend it back true.

Rear Wheel spokes
Check them often because they come loose pretty easy. I broke a couple on mine and after changing them twice I said the heck with it and put in oversized stainless spokes and alloy nipples. Never had a problem since and they stay tight!

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