The original Husqvarna factory manual says to use 10W-60 Oil

The sticker under the seat recommends to use 5W-40 (Which I have in the bike at the moment)

What would be correct, can someone clarify ?

On my Husaberg I have had good luck with 20/50.

I am trying to find out why there are different recommendations in the manual and the sticker on the bike. I would want to know which one is the appropriate weight of oil to use according to the designers of the engine.

A 60 oil is significantly "thicker" than a 40 oil, and  I assume there is a reason why the orginal printed manual says 10W-60 instead of the 5W-40.

I'm not sure which one you should use. It being different on the bike and manual doesn't seem out of line.

This is what I think and is a 100% guess. I think the sticker on the bike is for US specs and the manual is more of a Euro specs.

I can't speak for the Euro guys, but here in the US it's not very easy to pic up a 10W-60 oil. You can also look at the valve settings Manual .006/.008 ---- sticker on bike .009/.013 - (settings that are there for CA smog B.S.)

That being said, this is what I run in my bike
summer - 15-40 or 15-50 (temps 60F-99F)
winter - 5-40 (temps 20F-60F)

Atleast that gives you an idea what other people ar running.

brown

Synthetic or dino oil??

Everyone seems to have their own thoughts on Dino or Syn.
I run semi-syn or full-syn after break-in.

As long as someone changes their oil often (every couple of rides), I don't think it makes a big difference if it's dino or syn.

brown

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TX

My sticker is actually in mm for the valves(USA California Version)

The oil is fairly easy to get:

http://www.americana...Id=30&ProdId=56

I will talk to the dealer on Friday about this and see what they come up with.

Ok if you live in cold climate conditions use the 5W-40. The first number denotes how quickly the oil will circulate when the bike is cold. (The lower the number the faster it circulates.) It really does not matter that much in any case, as long as you use good oil(partsynth or fullsynth) and change it as others have pointed out very regularly. I Personally use a 10W-40W on my TE400(part synthetic) and change every 5-8hrs. I did use full synthetic but it cost twice as much and the difference's so far to the part synth  are not really noticable when change oil 5-8hrs!  

Yes, the stickers is in mm, .20 and .30 (I think). If you convert that, it comes out to around .009 and .013 so it is different than the manual states.

For me, I don't like having to order any oil. By the time it get to my house it is very over priced. If I had a Husky dealer close, I might run it. Since, its about a 3.5-4 hr drive one-way to the closest dealer I will stick with what has been working well. So far, I have had no trouble. I checked the piston and rings last week and everything still looks and checks good after almost 10 months.

When you hear back from your dealer, post back. I would like to know what he has the say.

Thanks,
brown

I have a 01 yamaha WR 426 and A 04 TE 450 . I live in Vancouver WA. and ride year around . I have used Castrol Actevo 10W-40 and have had very good luck with it .My bikes do not seem to use as much oil as some of my freinds that use petrolem base oils.

Mobil-1 used to sell a 5w-50 synthetic, but I have not been able to find it anymore.
In my street bike, truck, and Passat Turbo, I have switched to Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40.  It's a fantastic oil.
You can find it at Wal-Mart in 4qt jugs.  It's a full synthetic and the jugs are only $12.89!!

The first Shell Rotella was originally a heavy duty diesel oil.  The new Rotella T Synthetic is for gas and diesel applications and is hugely popular for streetbikes.  I have had excellent results with it!

I used 20/50 wt for my 86 Husky 510TX. Just sold it this week. It ran fine down here in So. California and Baja. I changed it after every weekend or longer ride. Oil is cheap. Gearboxes and lower ends are not.

I use top of the line Maxima #20-50 Ultra pure synthetic in my TE 250 ...it meets and exceeds all the "for motorcycle use" tests but I can't recall the standards (JAE/ME?).

The shifting is really slick with this oil and I never experienced any clutch slippage as folks note with synthetics, actually the clutch has better feel IMO. Also the oil stays cleaner much, much, longer than anything I have tried. Also my oil level never drops, at least I can not see any notable drop, that can't be said about the new jap 250 F's though...

But this oil is expensive like $10 US a quarts, well only the best for my baby, and actually cheaper in the long run. Just think I don't have to add oil to my gas anymore, that really added up on the Gas Gas...

MXAction had a really good article a while back and said that the automotive oils are designed for cars and not high performance motorcycle 4-strokes.

*** Note: Cagive USA told me to adjust the valves to the paper and/or on line manual. Intake 0.006" / Exhaust = 0.008" and my are staying in the range with no issues.

MSTex

Although it doesn't answer your specific question, here is an informative article written by a motorcyclist who is a Chemist in the Oil Industry:

http://www.yft.org/t...fr/tech/oil.htm

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Correct, it does not answer my question but the text  actually underlines my concern:

"Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection."

This is my thinking and I do not understand why the sticker recommends the 5W-40 for a Califonia bike unless there is a reason for it based on the design, Italy is not "hotter" than California    based on my personal experience.  

I do not need the "extra" power developed by using "thinner" oil  

Like said earlier, I'll talk to the dealer about it and if that does not lead to a satisfying answer I will contact Husqvarna in Italy directly and post the results on this board.

At least they are consistent with the stickers  

The dealer does not have this oil in stock anyway, he sold me Rockoil full synth 5W-40 as per sticker recommendation (Viscosity only).

I sent Agip usa an email today an asked for the following specs/values of the 10W-60 full synth Oil:

1. Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 degrees C
2. Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 degrees C
3. Viscosity Index (VI)
4. Cold Crank Simulator Apparent Viscosity
5. Mini-Rotary Viscometer
6. Borderline Pumping Temperature
7. Pour Point
8. Flash Point
9. Fire Point
10. NOACK Volatility
11. High Temperature/High Sheer Viscosity
12. Four Ball Wear Test
13. Total Base Number (TBN)
14. Phosphorus % or PPM
15. Zinc % or PPM
16. Sulfated Ash Content

With this information I can judge the "quality" of the oil and do some comparison, but this still does not answer the core question. Husqvarna or the dealer will have to provide that answer.