Posted June 04, 2001 - 05:40 PM
Posted June 04, 2001 - 06:52 PM
HEAT...Try applying heat to the female portion of the nut, not the male part this will also break away any paint that would be contibuting to you saying #^@!
Originally posted by ColoradoJim:
I just attempted my first oil change .everything went fine until I tried to remove the frame filter nut It would not budge. It looks like it is not meant to come off, but the manual sure say it does. Do you have suggestions or advice.. Thanks
Posted June 04, 2001 - 08:53 PM
2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed
Posted June 05, 2001 - 02:11 AM
I DO use heat to remove stuck nuts/bolts in many other applications.
'99 WZ/YR (you choose!) with ALL YZ mods, de-octopused, DSP Doug Henry airbox w/ velocity stack, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, forked over by Pro-Action (and then fixed by me), OEM YZ tank, IMS YZ seat, carb mods by Jim Dean, Andy in OZ, & Sir "Taffy" from Jolly Old England, AMA, NESC, and I use MOBIL 1 Oil, with ZERO problems.
Posted June 05, 2001 - 06:37 AM
Posted June 05, 2001 - 07:03 AM
Posted June 05, 2001 - 08:14 AM
I USED A 24MM RING SPANNER , BUT GRANTED IT'S
REALLY TIGHT ( DONT USE HEAT ). DIDN'T FIND
ANY DEBRIS ON MY SCRREN AT ALL , SO I'LL
ONLY DO IT YEARLY . TO GET THE SCREEN OUT I FOUND IT NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE WHOLE OIL PIPE AND HOSE CONNECTED TO THE SCREEN (OTHERWISE THINGS GET A BIT TRICKY TRYING TO FLEX THE RUBBER HOSE ).
IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO THIS MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LOSE THE LOCATING DOWL AND THE O RING, WHERE
THE PIPE MEETS THE CASING.
HOPE THIS WILL HELP YOU OUT.
HAMPSHIRE , ENGLAND
Posted June 06, 2001 - 02:27 AM
Posted June 06, 2001 - 02:40 AM
Posted June 06, 2001 - 01:03 PM