Newbie has some setup ????

14 replies to this topic
  • JPEracing

Posted July 19, 2002 - 03:33 PM


Purchased a new 2002 YZ426 last weekend. The bike needed to be uncrated and prepped. (my dealer is located some 180 miles from home) So I have not taken delivery yet.
Next weekend I plan on picking it up and start to prep it for the typical Michigan trails i.e. whooped out, sandy fire roads and a bit of single track.
From this forum (thanks all) I have learned a great deal. BK carb mod, Lt. blue wire, greaseing the pivot points, Mobil 1 oil etc.

Could any of you post a list of other things that you would do before the first ride ?? Suspension settings ? (180 lbs dry weight, average ability). Chain tension, jetting etc etc. Anything special to look out for or ??????

So far I`ve purchased a FMF Power Core IV Q, Moose skid plate, Bark busters and a lighting kit from Baja Designs. All of which I plan on installing before the first ride.

Really want to get started off on the right foot here. Figure that it would be easier and better to get it right the first time.

Thanks a bunch.
Anyone ride in the St. Helen area ???

[ July 19, 2002: Message edited by: JPEracing ]

[ July 19, 2002: Message edited by: JPEracing ]

  • beezer

Posted July 19, 2002 - 04:55 PM


The only thing I did to mine was replace the stock chain with an O-ring and make sure the bolts were tight and the air filter was oiled.

I rode it for 10 minutes and changed the oil and that was it.

No need to get anal, just ride the thing.

Enjoy your new toy! :)

  • DPW

Posted July 19, 2002 - 05:08 PM


Keep an eye on the rear sprocket bolts too.

  • skthom2320

Posted July 22, 2002 - 08:14 AM


Originally posted by JPEracing:
Could any of you post a list of other things that you would do before the first ride ?? Suspension settings ? (180 lbs dry weight, average ability). Chain tension, jetting etc etc. Anything special to look out for or ??????


Your suspension WILL be stiff for a while. Maybe 10 hours or so then you can start making clicker adjustments. Also make sure and set the rear sag.

Check the spokes every ride.

Check the rear sprocket bolts every ride.

I set the chain tension as in the manual but use 2-2.25 inches instead of 1.6 2.0 inches.

Don't over-oil the air filter and make sure it sits overnight before you use it.

Jetting? Does it start easily? Does it rev smoothly to WOT? Can you ride at a constant speed without sputtering or odd behavior at different throttle positions (1/8th, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4)? If so, your jetting is fine for now.

Otherwise, have fun!

  • Yak

Posted July 22, 2002 - 10:03 AM


You might want to replace the stock bars before you go through the trouble of adding the bark busters and light kit. Honest to god, those stock bars WILL bend you first real crash, I guarantee it. I replaced mine with a anodized blue renthals 966 Yamaha bend and really like them, they are almost identical to stock bend. The 02 does not have removable bar mounts, so unless you want to change the top clamp you will be limited to 7/8's bars... ie regular renthals, not tapers, twinwalls, or fatbars.

  • sirthumpalot

Posted July 22, 2002 - 11:17 AM


I bent 4 pair of stock bars before I finally installed some pro tapers. Fortuntaely I was getting most of the stockers used for very little cash, but the pro tapers are worth the cash IMHO. They've already lived through a couple of falls that would have definitely pretzled the stock bars.

  • John_Lorenz

Posted July 22, 2002 - 11:18 AM


ge plenty of spare NONE OEM brake and clutch levers :)

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • beengoneawhile

Posted July 22, 2002 - 11:25 AM


I also recently purchased a YZ with the primary intent of off-road vs. MX. The first lesson is:

Learn how to start it when it's hot. Do not, under any circumstance go trail riding without learning and perfecting the rule.

I would have sold my brand new YZ426 the first day to the first person offering $1000, IF they could have found me in the woods trying to start the thing.

Since learning the rule, it starts 1st or 2nd kick.

Other than the stock gearing and light flywheel, this is the most important thing.

I've addressed the other issues since then with a 12 oz. Steahly flywheel ( and dropping a tooth on the front (13 from a 14). With these mods and the stock engine, its an awsome woods bike.

I currently flop back and forth between the 13 and the 14 up front depending on where I ride. You might want to add the flywheel cover from the WR for a little more engine protection, other than that, just get out and ride.

  • Shawn_Mc

Posted July 22, 2002 - 01:08 PM


You can use a universal Fatbar mount kit on your stock clamp and get the 1.125 dia. bars with your stock top clamp. Other mods would include pure nitro in the tank, and jello in the inner tubes. Its hard to get the jello into the tubes, because sometimes the tirepump check valve clogs with the little clumps of jello, but its worth it!! One other thing, dont get mad, Im just having fun with ya.
Im jealous, youve got a brand new bike, and I dont. Ride it and have fun :)


Posted July 22, 2002 - 01:42 PM


congrats on the new bike. Can I buy your silencer off of you for $75 USD?

  • JPEracing

Posted July 22, 2002 - 03:39 PM


Hey thanks for the help, advice and kind words.
Gonna do the trip North this weekend and pick the puppy up.
I`ll report on Monday how everything went.

Be happy to sell you the silencer. 75.00 is to much. Make it 50 + shipping and ya got a deal.

  • Hick

Posted July 22, 2002 - 06:06 PM


Originally posted by JPEracing:
Next weekend I plan on picking it up and start to prep it for the typical Michigan trails i.e. whooped out, sandy fire roads and a bit of single track.

If it were me I’d lose the front tire immediately, IMO it is a big liability in the sand. Almost anything is better, Dunlop 756 is good on harder stuff too, 773 is better in sand but can skate on hard stuff, Pirelli M44 is comparable to 756 w/ a bit more cross-over to hard IMO and wears well, S12 is also good but I don’t think they last as long.

The rear tire is passable, only because it won’t put you on your head, but in sand, again, just about anything is an improvement. I go back and forth from Dunlop 756 to the new 773.

I also wouldn’t trust the dealer to have the chain adjusted properly, check the shroud and side panel bolts, rear sprocket bolts (use a torque wrench if possible), change oil as often as is reasonably possible for the first five or six hours, and like someone else mentioned set your sag but don’t bother touching the clickers until you have over 5 hours, then you may want more rebound in back and compression in front (and maybe more fork oil) for sand whoops and the like.

  • Hick

Posted July 22, 2002 - 06:09 PM


Originally posted by JPEracing:
Be happy to sell you the silencer. 75.00 is to much. Make it 50 + shipping and ya got a deal.

Gracious, how magnanimous of you. Welcome to Thumpertalk! :)

  • Hick

Posted July 22, 2002 - 06:17 PM


BTW I should also mention something about your pipe. Not 100% certain if you have the same model, but the FMF Q I had fell apart when the can ripped the four mounting holes out of where it bolts to the collector.

Because of the strap-type rear hanger (make sure you get the o-ring in there correctly) that larger can wants to rock about the hanger's axis, elongating, and in my case ripping, the four little holes in the collector. Keep an eye on these four little allen-head bolts, don't let them come loose.

I don't want to ruin a good thing for WR Man, but you may reconsider selling the stock can. I'm not sure if any of the aftermarkets are better all-around than the stocker (too bad it has no S/A, but it is pretty quiet for its performance). If your Q shares mine's fate you will wish you hadn't let go of the stocker.

BTW I was happy w/ how my bike ran with the Q pipe, it stilled revved real well but it was definitely down on power (slightly) low to mid vs. the stocker. It also liked slightly leaner jetting on the pilot and idle.

Hope this helps.

  • ricky1

Posted July 23, 2002 - 04:26 AM


Regarding the pipe, you can get a disk type of spark arrestor from BMP ( in Oregon that slides into the stock silencer. I bought mine from them quite a while ago, and I like it. It came with 8 disks, but with 6 disks it reads 100-101 dB on my Radio Shack dB meter. I really did not notice a power loss with 6 disks. The one thing that concerns me, is that the end plate says "FMF spark arrestor model #1000" but it has NO USFS endorsement. I think I will call them today and see if they have changed that.

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