Torque on bolts

[DJ426]

With frequent oil changes and constent changing of parts do you all really torque every bolt to spec or do you use your own judgement?

[sirthumpalot]

I use the torque wrench. Just because you do something often is no reason to get lazy. ?

[DJ426]

Thanks for the reply.

[John_Lorenz]

SirThumpy is right

to take a step further get a Trq wrnch that is small and uses inch pounds, The larger foot pound wrench's are better suited for heads, axles and things the smaller more nimble wrenches are more suited for the case bolts...

[DJ426]

I am assuming that to convert from foot lbs to inch pounds you just multiply by twelve. right?

[Hick]

Originally posted by DJ426:

I am assuming that to convert from foot lbs to inch pounds you just multiply by twelve. right?

If I remember correctly that will work.

I have three torque wrenches, but I suppose two is enough. A small one for pinch bolts, cam caps etc and a larger one for axle nuts etc.

As for the importance of the spec, if you notice probably 90% of the time, or more, the spec simply corresponds to the size and grade of the fastener, i.e. I think 4 mm bolts use 10 Nm of torque, i.e. more than that could potentially break the bolt. That would be bad.

So I don't use a torque wrench on seat bolts, levers, oil drain, etc. because I'm fairly confident my bolt-breaking days are behind me. But I think it is foolish to not use a torque wrench on pinch bolts, cam caps, and other engine fasteners (esp. internal) because it isn't worth the risk in those cases.

My two cents.

[Durtorpedo]

If I may,

You should definitely use a torque wrench on most everything especially the oil drain on the crank case. It supposed to be 14 foot-pounds. Doesn't seem like much, but tighten it to spec and then next oil change check the torque on the removal, it will take nearly 20 foot-pounds. It has a brass gasket and the way the bolt itself is designed, begs to be rounded off.

[Guest mxrider426]

Man, I use a torque wrench on everything. Nothing is worse than stripping an important bolt. And I am pretty shure all of them are important.

[Jon_Escombe]

I'd have to confess I hate using a torque wrench on all those little 6mm bolts, very hard to get a feel for it. I think I'm far less likely to strip one with a ring spanner.

The cheesey quality of the Yam fasteners doesn't help either.. Hmm, maybe Ego's right and I just need a smaller wrench!

[ July 14, 2002: Message edited by: Jon Escombe ]

[Bill]

Here's a little tip when inserting a bolt into a disimilar metal i.e. triple clamps, linkage and engine cases. Use anti-seize on the bolt thread and even the shoulder. This will allow for more even torqueing and less chance of oxidation, causing the bolt to freeze in place.

Bill

[EricZ]

Be careful with lubing a bolt that the manual does not specify lube before torqueing. The reduced friction may actually cause you to overtighten and stretch the threads before the bolt tightens to spec. This includes using locktight on a bolt that doesn't specify for locktight. The bolt is actually much tighter than it feels due to the lube. In short, if the manual specifies a "dry" torque spec, torque it dry!

[Mark_Cantrell]

On the CRF450 forum, they've had several bolts with the wrong torque specs leading to stripped bolts. This has led a buddy of mine, normally a sane person, to make up a torque spec and then use a torque wrench to the made-up spec. Sheeesh, Hondas,

Good luck,

mwc

[John_Lorenz]

I wanted to wait until I saw some replies.

I have two wrenches on for the cinch bolts 10mm and below. I usually do these in inch pounds. The yz Manual gives both settings.

But honestly what I normally do (I have been wrenching along time)

I use a one handed method with 1/4 inch socketed ratchet. I feel my way by pressure, believe it or not I am pretty much on the money each time.

When it comes to engine work, No doubt torq wrench 100%, axles torq wrench, small mm bolts 10 and below, hand wrench method...

Ok start the flames but you know as well as I the percentage of my method is high

[ July 15, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]

[Thumpty_Dumpty]

Sorry guys - I'm gonna be different here. The only bolts I torque on my 426 are the axles, swing arm pivots and triple clamps.

Everything else just gets tightened according to common sense and 'feel' - and I've never stripped a thread or rounded a bolt.

As my dad says.."tight is tight"....

[John_Lorenz]

I assume your going by British Standard Right ?

not Metric

[Thumpty_Dumpty]

ironically no.... ?

my torque wrench is in Nm and Kgs, but I do use british standard 'tight'....I can see this getting out of hand......

[John_Lorenz]

Just goofin Thumpity

[Thumpty_Dumpty]

I know ?

[Florida_426]

One long night with a drill and an ezeout from a broken bolt in a harn to get to location and a torque wrench will be purchased ? .

EGO, I think that your wrenching since Archimedes invented the screw has something to do with your finely developed sense of feel (thats a joke son.) Please don't ever stop replying to posts. You keep everything in perspective and some large heads deflated . Ggod knows I spend too much time with people that take thenselves too seriously iin the engineering and construction fields.

Regards,

Bill Barnard

[EricZ]

Just remember this and you will be fine.

"Half turn past stripped, then back it off a quarter turn."

Just kidding!!