Can I revalve my own suspension?

14 replies to this topic
  • armourbl

Posted July 11, 2002 - 06:09 AM


I purchased Bambislayer's stock YZ426 suspension valves figuring that I could install them myself into my WR250F with the help of a local guy. Turns out the local guy can't do suspension revalve because he doesn't have the tools.

So, is this beyond my ability. I can do and have done just about everything else to my bike short of pulling the motor apart.

Can anyone tell my Motoman's website address?

Is there anyone in the Phoenix area that can assist me with this?


[ July 11, 2002: Message edited by: armourbl ]

  • Bambislayer

Posted July 11, 2002 - 06:17 AM


Itw ould be hard to do yourself without buying the proper tools. I know that garret tells you how to make a cartridge holder out of pvc pipe and this would work, but if you have compressed air tools you can actually take it out without the cartridge holder. Its not that it is hard, but just tedious and time consuming to do. I watched mark klein do mine and he did a great job, but there were many things he used to do it with that I do not have and would be prohibitively expensive to buy unless ou were planning on doing this type of thing on a regular basis. Try the local dealer or see if anyone in who might know how from here lives closeby. Good luck and let me know how they work out when you get them installed.


  • armourbl

Posted July 11, 2002 - 06:20 AM


I'm holding out hope that I can get some assistance from a local area rider on TT. We'll see.

Thanks Bambislayer.


  • John_Lorenz

Posted July 11, 2002 - 06:31 AM


Look under Tech Articles

And yes you can make the tools aslo from Moto mans site

Also you will need to either buy or make from case hard bolts, a wrench to fit the Bottom allen Valve CAP.

I think its a 20 or 24 MM not sure. But What I did was get a case hard bolt that fits directly into the Valve CAP, also got two nuts to tighten together on the splin to make a tool to break the grip of the valve cap.

Using this with Garrets Fork tools was the answer. Cost 10 bucks

[ July 11, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]

  • yznvegas

Posted July 11, 2002 - 06:51 AM


Call Dick's Racing here in Vegas, the # is 702-641-4002.

They also have a website,

He has been written up several times in magazines and they trust him with there test bikes all the time. He has done right by my and he is a good guy to work with. Tell him "Joe" sent ya.


  • armourbl

Posted July 11, 2002 - 07:21 AM



Did you send me only the compression valve for the forks? And the valve for the Shock?


  • armourbl

Posted July 11, 2002 - 07:23 AM


Vegas, I'm trying to avoid paying someone to do the work at a professional shop. If I went that route I'd just go ahead and replace my valving with MX Tech or something similar.

I'm trying to be cheap, because funds are low. I'll eventually do it all right, but for now just looking to make an improvement for minimal cost.


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  • Lee_Mason

Posted July 11, 2002 - 11:34 AM


I have taken three big compression shims from the rear shock and the front forks and gone to heaver springs, and I have to say that neither job was that difficult. But you really do need access to the special tools, however as the tools and nitrogen bottle is not that expensive, I think it is worth having a go.
The bottom shim stack is the compression one and can be removed with windy gun without taking the forks apart.

  • Bambislayer

Posted July 11, 2002 - 11:53 AM


I sent you everything that was removed when my gold valves were installed. There is only one piston each for each fork tube and one for the shock. I am not sure about the stock ones because I did not study them the way I did the gold valves but if you look at the pistons for the forks, you should notice that the diameter of the piston where the base shim seats is unique to both the compression and rebound side of the piston. The "valving" is controlled by utilizing shims of varying degrees of thickness and diamter on both sides. Same with the shock. So yes I only sent you one for each piece of the suspension and that is the way yours should come out. Let me know how you like it when you get it apart. mxtuner here at tt hangs out on the wr board and is extremely helpful to people who do not even do business with him. he could probably answer any questions you might have after you get into it. mxtech will definitely disagree, but mxtuner reccomends doing away with the midvalve altogether and taking up the slack with a stiffer compression stack. He did it for me and it works great; I think race tech reccomends this as well. Once you get inside of it it would not be hard to do if you bought a few more parts. It would be interesting to see how much better you could make the stock yz setup by getting rid of the midvalve. good luck!


  • motoman393

Posted July 11, 2002 - 03:17 PM



If you download the Race Tech instructions from my site you can see some pics of how the shims go on the valve. They arent the exact same as the gold valves but it will help you get the picture of how things go together.

I still have my stock valving zip tied together in my garage from both my forks and shock. I can take a pic or post the whole stack if you need it. About 6 months ago someone posted the stock shim stack for a 01' 426 (the forks)...if you do a search Im sure you will find it. Good Luck,


  • armourbl

Posted July 12, 2002 - 08:06 AM


Ok, don't wanna sound dumb here, but is it really necessary to dismantle the forks completely. Couldn I just remove the fork, turn it upside down, remove the bottom cap and remove the valve.

Basically, can you avoid draining the oil, remove the spring, pull the tubes apart, and all that type of work since really all the work is going to take place in the bottom.

Or, do I understand it correctly that you must seperate the tubes, then use the cartridge tool to hold the guts in place while removing the bottom cap/axle thing-a-bob. Sorry for the terminology.

I imagine that I may be able to use some of my stock shims to create an ideal shim stack. Any advice on this?


  • John_Lorenz

Posted July 12, 2002 - 08:27 AM



There is nothing better then doing it yourself.
I believ that the Stock Shocks and forks as they are are hands down the best in the market for Stock. Unless you need specific setups i.e weight, racing or just want trick stuff. Stay with your stock stuff just dial them in with proper oil and settings.

I did all my own work, Motomans web site has all the needed know how to accomplish this.

The benifit of doing it yourself is Money Saved, Lessons learned and satisfaction. You cant beat that with any amount of money.


[ July 12, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]

  • armourbl

Posted July 12, 2002 - 10:44 AM


I'm most certainly into doing it myself. I do almost all my bike work myself. About the only thing I didn't do to my street bikes was change the tires.

My only knowledge of suspension work is limited to changing the oil and seals. Never disassembled a rear shock yet either.

I'm going to get the video, make Motoman393's tools, and have at it. Hopefully it doesn't result in costing me tons of money due to some simple mistake that destoys my suspension.


  • Guest_mxrider426_*

Posted July 12, 2002 - 08:37 PM


In the may '02 issue of Dirt Bike it shows a little picture of "Rich at Race Tech" changing the valving on an upside down bike. It has a little passage saying that he just flips the bike upside down, and removes the valve stack with an air hammer.

We just need an air hammer. :)

  • Slymax

Posted July 13, 2002 - 05:55 AM


Works like a charm. Turn bike upside down, or lay on its's side woth the forks elevated up on a bike stand or something. Then just use a 1/2" drive impact wrench with an allen socket( I think it's 12mm)and give a couple of short bursts on the trigger to break the valves free and spin them out. Put them back in the same way, just start them by hand with the allen socket so you don't damage the threads. I've been using Race-Tech for years and those guys are really helpful

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