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Idea for a possible graphics bubbling/yellowing fix


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Everyone knows the gas tank graphics bubble, turn yellow and look like crap because of gas fumes escaping through the tank. People have suggested everything from leaving the tank empty/full to loosening the gas cap. All of these solutions seem like a hassle to me. I want a simpler solution that doesn't require me to remember to do something every time I ride.

So here's my question: Would an epoxy gas tank sealer, normally used to seal rusty tanks, work to stop the migration of fumes through the tank? Does anyone have any experience with these products? My first thought was to use a polyurethane sealer, but I was worried the gas would dissolve it and cause problems. This stuff however is intended to be used in gas tanks so it should be fine. The only question is, do gas fumes still pass through it? Any thoughts?

Here's a link to several of these products

gas tank sealer link

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UMMMMMMM............. ?..............NO!!!

Do not use a product that is suppose to seal a "steel" gas tank for a plastic one. That is absurd. :awww: Polymers/resins found in your gas tanks hold absolutely no similar properties to that of metal. More power to you if you want to stick some crap in your tank. But heed my warning. If your bike ends up sucking some of that crap through, you'll have more problem than some $40-50 stickers that bubbled.

If you did anything, put it on the outside. At least you’ll only ruin your tank instead of your motor.

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Everyone knows the gas tank graphics bubble, turn yellow and look like crap because of gas fumes escaping through the tank. People have suggested everything from leaving the tank empty/full to loosening the gas cap. All of these solutions seem like a hassle to me. I want a simpler solution that doesn't require me to remember to do something every time I ride.

So here's my question: Would an epoxy gas tank sealer, normally used to seal rusty tanks, work to stop the migration of fumes through the tank? Does anyone have any experience with these products? My first thought was to use a polyurethane sealer, but I was worried the gas would dissolve it and cause problems. This stuff however is intended to be used in gas tanks so it should be fine. The only question is, do gas fumes still pass through it? Any thoughts?

Here's a link to several of these products

gas tank sealer link

I have not had this problem for the 6 YZF's I have owned. I do however get red clay stains on the tank & shroud graphics.

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Here is something that I have done on my yz to help seal the tank on my 99 yz400

I went to Napa Autoparts and bought a spray can of clear plastic primer. I cleaned up the tank really good. Emptied all the gas outta it. Then applied several coats of the clear on the outside of the tank.

My thoughts here is that the primer will seal the tank from the outside and stop the seepage.

So far I have had the same set of graphics on my bike for like 3 years. Yea they are pealing up here and there but that is more to abuse than the gas I think.

Another thing I noticed. I borowed a wr250 tank for my yz400. The wr tank had been sitting around for a while with no gas in it. The graphics were all bubbled up. I installed the tank and filled it up. In a few days the bubbles in the graphics were gone. The gas expanded the tank and stretched the graphics out taking the bubbles out.

A few weeks latter when I put my stock tank back on my graphics were all bubbled up on the stock empty tank. But once installed and filled up the bubbles went away.

The moral of this story??? Keep your tank filled? ?

Either that or buy a Honda like I did and dont worry about graphics on the tank. :awww:

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UMMMMMMM............. ?..............NO!!!

Do not use a product that is suppose to seal a "steel" gas tank for a plastic one. That is absurd. :awww: Polymers/resins found in your gas tanks hold absolutely no similar properties to that of metal.

Woa, easy there. Sheesh, I was just asking a question.? Besides, why is it an absurd idea? If it worked it would solve a problem that a lot of people gripe about. Granted, you make a good point and I hadn't thought of it, but I don't think the general idea is absurd.

I'm glad you brought it up though because you are mostly correct, many of the sealants will not work on plastic tanks (I called the manufacturers), but I have found one that works on steel and fiberglass. Steel and fiberglass gel coat hold absolutely no similar properites either, but the manufacturer claims it works on both so it may work on plastic as well. I tried calling to find out, but they were already closed.

However, after reading yzman's primer idea, I think I will go that route. It's the kind of solution I was looking for. It's simple, apparently works well and seems a little less risky.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Hot Tops where distibuted by BBR for a while. I had one on my 99 YZ400. It fit well and worked great. The only problem with it was the plastic was brittle. I got to be good friends with the company owner as he sent me test parts for about a year. But everyone broke! When you squeeze with your knees it would crack. I think they had a great concept, it just never work out.

I still can't figure out why the stock graphics last a season but the aftermarket ones fall off after 3 weeks. Yamaha should change their tank design and use shroud covers like Kawasaki or Honda.

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there are 2 things I have noticed and done to keep my graphics from bubbling. Ive done 6-8 sets. here it is take and exacto knife and make sure all the perferations are all the way thru.. when I get new graphics I go a recut each perf. then after the graphics are installed after each ride unplug the tank vent at the gas cap below teh check valve so the vapors have the ability to go out that way instead of thru tank. It keeps the graphics from yellowing and bubbling.. Ive not had any problems. ?

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The reason the stock ones last longer than aftermarket is because they are installed before gas was ever introduced to the tank. The main reason they fail on people is because of incorrect surface prep. You should thouroughly clean the tank with soap and water, followed by a rubdown with alcohol before installation. Another reason they fail is because people have trouble rubbing out all the air bubbles while they are installing them. If you install them correctly, there should be no air bubbles. It's normal for the fumes to cause some air bubbles to appear but it usually happens with major changes in weather temperature. When they do appear, you have to rub them out through the cut lines. If you don't they will eventually fail. Mine have been on for over 2 years and they still look new. They were justr a cheap set off ebay, not even one of the big name brands. They all use the same 3M adhesive.

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