Posted June 06, 2004 - 02:36 PM
Posted June 07, 2004 - 01:08 AM
Posted June 07, 2004 - 07:07 AM
Be careful how high you go as the tubes start to taper and the lower clamp will not grab the fork properly. Take a good look at the fork legs and you'll see where the start to narrow down.
Posted June 07, 2004 - 08:42 AM
Posted June 07, 2004 - 05:44 PM
This will cause you to have a softer setting but will likely help make the bike less twichy and make the steering a little slower. Even without moving the forks you will notice steering changes by changing the sag. Less sag will jack-up the rear and make the steering quicker. More sag makes the rear lower and makes the steering slower.
Posted June 08, 2004 - 02:05 AM
Posted June 08, 2004 - 03:13 AM
Posted June 08, 2004 - 04:01 AM
Posted June 08, 2004 - 07:28 AM
The real reason to raise the forks is to change the steering geometry and make the bike steer quicker (and twitchier depending on several other factors) for tight trails and woods riding or just to satisfy personal taste. In this case you don't want a corresponding increase in sag 'cuz that would negate the effects of raising the forks. Also, as mentioned by someone else, the shock valving is designed for a certain range of sag so keep it there. LSS, don't mess with sag when raising your forks, don't increase sag out of the range it was designed for, and don't lower your bike by changing suspension levels on suspension that wasn't designed for being lowered.