I took the advice from this site on adjusting the AP after trying to start my new 450 for 2 days. Is the screw in question black and mounted on a flange on the side of the cylinder and comes in contact with a black plastic or rubber piece mounted on the A/P lever (the AP lever is a shiny sheet metal bracket)? I turned this screw all the way "in" (clockwise).
Or is it the bolt mounted on the bottom of the A/P lever?
This shiny bolt appears to be a stop.
The bike did start after adjustng the first screw mentioned above. It requires full choke even when warm, and 5 or 6 hits at the E button. The bike has the 37.5 pilot jet and stock 175 main. Can anyone tell me if I adjusted the right screw?
Thanks, Chris
Confused about adjusting AP on TE450
Started by
CRM
, Jun 04 2004 03:34 PM
4 replies to this topic
Posted 04 June 2004 - 06:07 PM
The adjustment is about zeroing out the preload on the accelerator pump rod. Don't want to sound like a wise guy but you should closely examine how things work before you start making adjustments! This is kind of hard to explain without pics, but I'll give it a shot.
Remove the tank, rear brake fluid reservoir and the black plastic carb cover on the r/h side of the carb. Examine the pump linkage. Manually turn the black plastic pump actuating mechanism to see how much preload is on the pump rod.
To adjust it, there is a small hex head screw and lock nut that come into contact with the black plastic actuating mechanism. This is the adjustment screw. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw in to reduce the preload. This screw is kind of hard to get to and you might want to remove the carb to make it easier to get to. Also, you might want to relocate the lock nut to the outside of the bracket to make it easier to get to next time.
When starting the bike cold, twist the throttle 2 or 3 times, full choke then hit the button but do not turn the throttle when trying to start it. It should fire right up.
Another perhaps easier way to do this adjustment is to glue a very small piece of sheet rubber or other suitable material to the black plastic actuating mechanism where it comes into contact with the adjustment screw to take up the preload on the rod. Do not use super glue. I used a 3m aerosol ahesive and a small piece of rubber diaphram material about 1mm thick and it was the perfect thickness to remove the preload on the pump. So far it has stayed in place with no problems. You might also want to try a 40 pilot jet too.
Remove the tank, rear brake fluid reservoir and the black plastic carb cover on the r/h side of the carb. Examine the pump linkage. Manually turn the black plastic pump actuating mechanism to see how much preload is on the pump rod.
To adjust it, there is a small hex head screw and lock nut that come into contact with the black plastic actuating mechanism. This is the adjustment screw. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw in to reduce the preload. This screw is kind of hard to get to and you might want to remove the carb to make it easier to get to. Also, you might want to relocate the lock nut to the outside of the bracket to make it easier to get to next time.
When starting the bike cold, twist the throttle 2 or 3 times, full choke then hit the button but do not turn the throttle when trying to start it. It should fire right up.
Another perhaps easier way to do this adjustment is to glue a very small piece of sheet rubber or other suitable material to the black plastic actuating mechanism where it comes into contact with the adjustment screw to take up the preload on the rod. Do not use super glue. I used a 3m aerosol ahesive and a small piece of rubber diaphram material about 1mm thick and it was the perfect thickness to remove the preload on the pump. So far it has stayed in place with no problems. You might also want to try a 40 pilot jet too.
Posted 04 June 2004 - 06:57 PM
Has your choke jet been drilled out?If it hasn't,open it up.You can check old posts,but I think .043 is what you open it to.This will greatly improve starting.
Posted 05 June 2004 - 12:54 PM
dukepilot,
Right on, you explained it perfectly and I agree with how you start yours. Mine works the same way. I just like to turn the choke off after about 10 seconds. Too much fuel for too long, I don't like. Mine idles perfectly w/o choke after about 5 seconds.
I always start mine up while I have about 4- 5 minutes of gearing up yet to do. Four strokes need to warm up.
Flame on
Right on, you explained it perfectly and I agree with how you start yours. Mine works the same way. I just like to turn the choke off after about 10 seconds. Too much fuel for too long, I don't like. Mine idles perfectly w/o choke after about 5 seconds.
I always start mine up while I have about 4- 5 minutes of gearing up yet to do. Four strokes need to warm up.
Flame on
Posted 10 June 2004 - 03:16 PM
Flame, thanks, I'm still learning about this bike. Now I got a TE250 in addition to the SM450R to play with. These are great bikes and seem to be reliable and yet easy, even fun to work on. For me, that's great combo! 
