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z start nearly perfect


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i ordered 5 tungsten balls from rekluse. i put them in. its a little draggy, but im using the same spring/locknut setting as before. same gap, idle and spring setting. how does it engage?

almost immediately, right off idle. total hookup. :awww: still very smooth, but torqier (sp?). the engine is doing alot of the work and the clutch cover temp has dropped dramatically.

this is with 14/48 gearing, though. i want to gear it with a 47t rear and use a 15t for desert, 14t for tight stuff. it feels like it needs 1 or even 5 more heavy balls to tune it to a 15t, to make it perfect.

its close though. rekluse should include 3 tungsten balls with every 426 clutch they sell. ? that would make sense.

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well, my gap is such now that i have to wait for it to wear a bigger gap. or the gap will be too big. but i will try a larger gap, eventually.

i live in conifer... im goin up to georgetown tomorrow, first ride with the perfect clutch. i cant wait. ?

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Can't wait to hear how your perfect clutch treats you. I loved mine, unfortunately I am switching bikes due to some financial difficulties. I have a rekluse clutch, and perch for sale if anyone is interested in buying it. It's been used for 3 months, only about 10 rides, it has worked awesome. I will take 350.00 for the complete set up. Let me know if you are interested. This is for an 03 yzf 450.

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actually, the clutch revealed itself to be imperfect. i got some hard riding on it - steep jeep trails and desert. the heavier balls definately helped, but i know i need more of them. i cant lug my bike and i hate it. but it is getting close. there isnt so much heat but i know i can feel it fade at times, though slight.

im thinking i need at least 10, maybe 15 tungsten balls to get this clutch running cool. it just slips too much. its one thing to be able to get the power you need, when you need it. its quite another to have the clutch slip everytime you hit the throttle...

why should the clutch slip when your lugging a 4 stroke?. ? ill have to also see if they have a heavier "wavy" spring to get rid of the drag.

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If its slipping then the install gap is simply to large. Or you Friction and plates are out of spec (Worn Out). On my 426 I had a bit of a run getting it setup the first time. The first ride the clutch slipped, but I removed the clutch and reinstalled it getting the gap correct.

Have you contacted Rekluse? Something doesn't sound like it is working correctly. Have you inspected the pressure plate real well to see if the Ball groves have no defects?

I do know that getting the gap right and then adjusting your stall speed (Aka Spring and Idle) is a crucial step as well. I have now about 15 solid hours on the clutch. The last run was Foresthill West Coast TT ride, The clutch was flawless.

As far as lugging goes, I hope your not mistaking the auto feel for slippage, I know its a fine line on this. I used 1st - 3rd in tight woods and found that at times the clutch felt like it was slipping, in fact it wasn't, it was simply the characteristic of the clutch and the way it engages. Drop a gear and see what happens. Also as you said, the heavier spring will make a big difference as well. ?

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actually, the clutch revealed itself to be imperfect. i got some hard riding on it - steep jeep trails and desert. the heavier balls definately helped, but i know i need more of them. i cant lug my bike and i hate it. but it is getting close. there isnt so much heat but i know i can feel it fade at times, though slight.

im thinking i need at least 10, maybe 15 tungsten balls to get this clutch running cool. it just slips too much. its one thing to be able to get the power you need, when you need it. its quite another to have the clutch slip everytime you hit the throttle...

why should the clutch slip when your lugging a 4 stroke?. ? ill have to also see if they have a heavier "wavy" spring to get rid of the drag.

Tool, a heavier spring will only contribute to more clutch slip. More tungsten carbide balls will only contribute to more drag unless you open up the installed gap. I have experimented with both of these variables, I know.

If you can't get the correct gap from exchanging discs, you can do it by adding or subtracting the shims that are stacked under the lower assembly. I did just that to get my gap right where I wanted it.

I can't help but think that there is still something going on that we're all missing.

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