whos got the master link install secret?


27 replies to this topic
  • TheEnvelope

Posted July 05, 2004 - 09:30 AM

#21

I use the Motion Pro chain breaker. $21.99 in the rockymountainMC catalog part #15-0420. Or check their website. RMMC is the best place to get stuff, low prices, huge inventory and three days or less shipping.

PS, this tool works a lot better than leaving your o-rings in a vise overnight :thumbsup:

  • R_Little

Posted July 06, 2004 - 05:24 AM

#22

I use the Motion Pro large chain tool and rivet master links. I gave up on the clips long ago, although I do keep one in my tool pack for the trail.

Chain is suposed to be stronger with rivet links

  • flogger

Posted July 06, 2004 - 06:14 AM

#23

I agree with the needle nose vise grips to get the plate below the grooves for the master link clip. Then I start the clip on one post and remove the vice grips and replace them on the end that has not yet entered. This seemed to be my prob with the O/X ring chains. And as the other guys said the specialized tool would be the best, but the vise grips work if you don't have one.
Flog

  • eazrider

Posted July 06, 2004 - 10:09 AM

#24

Take a 3-4" "C" clamp, weld an old 10mm socket on one of the clamping surfaces (of the clamp). Install the chain on the bike, with the ends coming together on the rear sprocket. Use the tool you just made to alternately compress the side plate over each pin in the M/link. Slide the clip on in the correct direction. Fugetta' bout it. (actually, you don't even have to weld the socket to the clamp, but it keeps it in place while the clamp is being tightened)

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  • lightestYZF

Posted July 07, 2004 - 08:45 AM

#25

Take ends of chain set them at a 10 O'Clock (Don't matter if PM or AM) on the rear sprocket


I use 2 o'clock but I am on the east coast.
I also use regular straight pliers that have just 2 positions. The trick is to have a narrow enough jaws that fit between the pins.

  • John_Lorenz

Posted July 07, 2004 - 09:16 AM

#26

Take ends of chain set them at a 10 O'Clock (Don't matter if PM or AM) on the rear sprocket


I use 2 o'clock but I am on the east coast.
I also use regular straight pliers that have just 2 positions. The trick is to have a narrow enough jaws that fit between the pins.


:thumbsup: I was being funny

  • RAMARION

Posted July 07, 2004 - 11:19 AM

#27

IDA

I cheat when it comes to this.........the o'ring chains are a pain in the rear.......... when I install an o-ring chain, i just use a standard non-o-ring masterlink, 2 seconds later, viola its complete :thumbsup:


and if you don't have enough oil for a whole change do you just throw in some cat food or whatever is nearby?

Thats just a little freaky...chains are only as strong as their weakest link. I would think introducing an odd duck in the array of consistently moving parts would cause some erratic behaiviour/wear :awww:


OC768

I haven't tried cat food but dog food works well :devil:

Sirthump, I have not seen any unusal wearing yet. I run the o'ring w/ 450 and non-o-ring w/250F. I replace the chain on my new bikes with a quality DID Gold chain before it touches the dirt. It saves the premature spocket replacements.

  • 00YZ426FMRCD

Posted July 07, 2004 - 08:15 PM

#28

Jack - By my calculations, that would be 2 minutes and day... :thumbsup: I was never good at the story math problems and I am now making candles with all of my college education.....





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