What have you guys dropped your fork settings too?

8 replies to this topic
  • 696

Posted May 27, 2001 - 07:05 PM


I just lowered mine 6mm. A little to wet to try it out and was just wonder what you guys have yours set at?

  • mcarp

Posted May 27, 2001 - 08:43 PM



Good question. I'm around 12mm on my '00 WR.
hard to tell exactly, I've continued to drop them slowly over the course of the last year.

But I have a damper and rarely go over 60mph, so I'm not worried about headshake. It's not a problem, but it DID get squirly a few times in sand when I didn't have the damper on. No tankslapper, just a little shake when letting off the gas and braking to fast in the sand.

You're probably safe to go even further- try 7 or 8. If you have a damper, start at 8 and go up from there.

I found that with Michelin S12 front tires (for mud/loose dirt/sand) the front end reacts soo much quicker than stock--it's night and day.

Good luck, let us know how you made out.

  • Darren_Santilli

Posted May 28, 2001 - 01:58 AM


I too have mine set at around 12mm and also use an S12 michelin on the front and rear.(bike only used on MX tracks)

With the .47 fork springs I'm running, the front end now feels perfect.(As does the whole bike) Very predictabubble

'00 WR400

  • dwby2kwr

Posted May 28, 2001 - 06:38 AM


i have mine at 13mm. i am running the scotts damper. stock fuel tank and seat. i ride desert mostly. i dont like the front tire im running right now and i have the acerbis fuel tank on the way. i have had no problems with the forks being this low even at high speeds in arroyos and on single and two tracks

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  • mcarp

Posted May 28, 2001 - 08:14 AM


696 it looks like you're probably safe to go to 10 or 12mm. It will feel more "KDX" like :). Darrin above needed a spring change, I had mine revalved at MX tech (extremely happy customer) to get that truly light feeling, agile, and quick to react to changes type steering. Play with the clickers before you have them revalved.

Make sure you're rear preload is set properly.

The next step if you haven't done so already is to shorten the wheelbase. Either a 14/52 combo with 114 tooth chain or 13/49 or 13/50 with 112 chain will push the rear forward slightly. I've found the DID VMX chain to stretch and corrode the least of any I've tried over the last 4 years. They are worth the $$$

When you combine yz tank/seat, damper, good tire, proper suspension adjustment revalve, and clamp height--the WR is suitable for just about anything short of trials!

Happy trails

  • Taffy

Posted May 28, 2001 - 12:41 PM


i'm on 15mm of fork tube or 18mm if i include the cap. i'm pleased to see so many people have gone up from 6mm which i didn't think was enough.

i've got 5mm clamp lifters to enable this.

i got fed up with the rear tyre shredding the rear flap so i moved the wheel back. i can't say i felt any difference to be fair.

it's a little bit hairy on the soft sand otherwise it's an improvement.


  • Harry_in_Oz

Posted May 28, 2001 - 03:53 PM


Upping the rear preload to get the front to bite is good advice. I tried a softer front spring__seriously bad move.

  • Taffy

Posted May 29, 2001 - 01:01 AM


look in the archives for a complete package on how i speeded up my handling.

"jack it up!!!"


  • Darren_Santilli

Posted May 29, 2001 - 01:46 AM



[This message has been edited by Darren Santilli (edited 05-29-2001).]


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