coolant ?'s



15 replies to this topic
  • Striker

Posted June 09, 2002 - 07:23 AM

#1

Just wondering what you guys thought...
I'll be out for a few days of riding in the heat of the Mojave Desert where temps can easily get past 100+ degrees (elev. 3500 ft). Any suggestions as to types of coolant to use? Do I even need to replace the stock coolant? It's full and have never had a problem with it (only have about 8-10 hrs. on the bike). Thanks...

  • mxfreak

Posted June 09, 2002 - 07:53 AM

#2

Two words: Engine Ice.

  • Fireballsocal

Posted June 09, 2002 - 08:35 AM

#3

you'll be fine and will overheat before the bike does. the trick is to keep moving at 20 plus mph. engine ice does lower the temp as advertisd but with the stock cooling system as good as it is, you don't need it.

  • Guest_mxrider426_*

Posted June 09, 2002 - 10:12 AM

#4

when I ride in something like 110 degree weather, I use 75/25 water/antifreeze and water wetter, and I don't have any problems. I change my coolant as often as my oil to keep it fresh for this kind of heat.

  • thumper4life

Posted June 09, 2002 - 11:34 AM

#5

wheres engine ice dave when ya need him?! :)

  • Cobra314

Posted June 09, 2002 - 02:42 PM

#6

Hangin out on the Motodrive board!!!! :)

  • moto_madman

Posted June 09, 2002 - 04:22 PM

#7

I use engine ice. It works great and i have never had a problem.

  • MX_Tuner

Posted June 10, 2002 - 01:12 AM

#8

Engine Ice= snake oil. It doesn't work any better than standard coolant.

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  • mxfreak

Posted June 10, 2002 - 06:51 AM

#9

Engine Ice, as opposed to other coolants based on the same family of glycols, is environmentally safe. :)

Stefan

[ June 10, 2002: Message edited by: mxfreak ]

  • Tim

Posted June 10, 2002 - 06:56 AM

#10

In the summer I use straight water wetter and distilled water. If there is any chance of freezing temps (not likely) I use 20% antifreeze, and the rest water wetter/water mix. The water wetter does make a difference. I have a oil temp gauge.

I hope this helps
tim

  • Guest_mxrider426_*

Posted June 10, 2002 - 01:25 PM

#11

Water Wetter specifies on the bottle that it does not protect magnesium. Doesn't the coolant run through the magnesium right crankcase cover? I use 25% antifreeze so that it is protected.

  • mxraceraz

Posted June 10, 2002 - 01:47 PM

#12

I live in AZ and it is well over 100'. Last weekend was 112' and I rode at the mx with no prolems. I am using distilled water and water wetter. My temp gauge show just under 200 when riding hard.

  • superdave78621

Posted June 10, 2002 - 02:16 PM

#13

Regular green coolant is ethylene glycol. it works pretty well. Propylene glycol is thought to be environmentally friendly, because it requires more of it to kill animals and people, if they drink it. So don't drink it! It actually requires more oxygen to biodegrade than teh same amount of ethylene glycol.
You should never run pure water, as there are anticorosion additives in good coolants that help protect the metals in your engine/cooling system. Any conventional coolant should at least meet ASTM specification D-3306, the minimum requirement of physical and chemical properties of a conventional coolant. i'm not sure that "water wetter" meets this spec or has any of these additives.

Teh best coolant to run in your bikes, car, truck, whatever is Shell Dex-cool Extended Life coolant. It is a "carboxylate" technology that far exceeds the performance of conventional coolants. It protects the aluminum, copper, magnesium, solder, etc in your engine/cooling system much better than any conventional coolant. And General Motors approves it for 5 years or 150,000 miles. You can put it in your bike at 50/50 ratio and forget about it. I have it in my dirt and street bikes. It's orange in color and you can find it at Wal-mart or Shell distributors in the yellow pages.
Lube Dude

  • dockedoar

Posted June 12, 2002 - 03:38 PM

#14

I live in south east Florida where it is God-Awful-Hot year round. Have tried all kinds of coolants. My best friend and I take a bunch of small kids (our own) on trail rides every time we go out. We always overheated due to a snails pace. That is until we started running ENGINE ICE. Haven't overheated since. I will never run my bike with out it again. Just my 1/2 a penny's worth!

  • Vanilla_Gorilla

Posted June 12, 2002 - 06:26 PM

#15

when you get maxima chemicals for dirt cheap, you gotta push their stuff, but in all honesty, maxima coolinol works slightly better than water wetter or engine ice. i have a digital engine pc that tells oil temp, engine operating temp, as well as a throttle position recorder. it shows max temps and rpms and throt. psotions and all that when you attach it to the readout. anyways, my racing temps were about 220 with stock fluid, 205 with ngine ice (similar results with water wetter) and 198 with coolinol. the average temps also in the same order with coolinol at the best.

  • 19283

Posted June 13, 2002 - 03:42 AM

#16

Too add to what Superdave said.....

I'm a chemist and work at a lab where we run all the tests mentioned in ASTM D3306 - which is a light duty automotive spec. BTW - ASTM stands for American Society for Testing and Materials. The reason EG or PG is added to the coolant is to raise the boiling point and lower the freezing point. Since most of us are not worried about our bikes freezing, we can disregard the latter. Straight water boils at 212f, 50:50 EG/H20 boils at around 225f, pure EG boils at around 375f. (Keep in mind, this is under atmospheric pressure, a radiator is at around 15 psi so those temps go up). Concentration and boiling points are not a linear function. So I'm sure someone is asking, why not just run pure EG? Another factor (as well as others)comes into play, Specific heat (Cp), this is the amount of heat a material can absorb. Or to be technical, the amount of heat required to raise the temp of a gram of H20 1 degree C. Another yet, is thermal conductivity, which is pretty self explanatory. Another is density......and on and on. Pure EG as it comes of a Prestone or Dexcool (the difference in green and orange coolant as SD said is the anitcorrosion additives, they are both EG based) is not a great conductor of heat, so water is added to help that out. Also, the additives are more soluble in an aqueous solution as opposed to straight EG. One of many reasons reason for the new red coolant (which is not new at all, the technology was developed in the 70's)was to combat a problem known as silicate drop out (as it implies, silicate additives would come out of solution and plug coolant passages), also in Europe with their super hard water, phosphate drop out was very common. Pure water, is a great conductor of heat, but as SD said, has no anticorrosion additives. Your cooling sysyem will be rusted in no time if you just add pure H20. There are additives out there that can be added to pure H20 to protect the metals in the system. What's the best? I personally run around 40:60 EG:H20 so I have enough anticorrosion protection and good heat transfer. I don't know anything about water wetter or any of those additives, but out of curiosity I'm going to call a friend at Prestone to get the scoop. From what I've read, it looks like it works, but I don't know how. If I can get my hands on some, I will compare specific heat data (I have an instrument in the lab that can measure that stuff) of a solution of that stuff with EG as opposed to normal EG.

This is just more FYI, I don't know the answer to
the overheating dilema's other that what has already been stated. I was just excited to add to the knowlege base since I know little to nothing about motorcycles. I've never ridden a dirt bike in my life and bought a 426 six months ago so I have a lot to learn.

take care!





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