2000Xr650R Clutch bushing question


14 replies to this topic
  • Winkel

Posted May 24, 2004 - 05:36 PM

#1

Guys,
What is the clutch bushing change that is recommended on the 2000 XR650R? When it seizes, does it do serious damage? Does frequent oil change make a difference?
Thanks,
Gary

  • qadsan

Posted May 24, 2004 - 05:47 PM

#2

See these links for details...

http://www.xr650r.us/issues/13.shtml
http://www.xr650r.us/xr650r_faq/#33

  • BIGTONY

Posted May 24, 2004 - 06:24 PM

#3

Do yourself a favor and change it to the updated bushing ASAP. I had mine seize on my 98 xr650l. You dont have to be a mechanic to do the swap before it seizes, but you mioght need a professional to do it after it seizes. Let me tell you its a pain in the butt if it seizes. The bushing seizes to the main shaft, and in some cases it seizes to both the shaft and the clutch basket(excactly what happened to me). If you cant the bushing off the shaft $800-1200 to have the main shaft replaced. If the bushing cant be removed from the clutch basket then appx. $300 for a new basket. I was at the dealer the other day and I was inquiring about the bushing. Make sure you order the one for a 2003-2004. Even though this is a known problem, the computer will still list the old part number for the older 650r's and the updated bushing for the newer 650r's. I found out too late and am still working on my bike. Im waiting for my new bushing to come in, and for the mechanic to return my clutch basket Im having him press the seized bushing out of the basket. Hopefully by the weekend it will be done. Im going to use synthetic oil after the repair is done. All it took to seize the bushing was for me to rev the bike with the bike in first and the clutch pulled in. Pretty scary the bike pulled a wheelie without ever letting the clutch go.

  • pchansen

Posted May 25, 2004 - 11:50 AM

#4

I agree w/ BIGTONY- I too just replaced my bushing on my 01 650R. My bushing siezed to the basket and thankfully I was able to remove the bushing from the basket without damaging the basket too much( had to grind down the high spots on the basket with a dremel too). This change is soooo simple! Ydont even have to drain the oil(well maybe a little)- just lean it over on it's kick stand and remove the right side clutch cover- remove the four bolts and springs that hold the outer clutch on and then go to sears and buy a 26mm(?) socket and remove to nut that holds the inner clutch (basket) and remove that. The bushing is the small part -about 1 1/2" long and slides over the main shaft. When you mount the basket- it rides on the bushing. The new part number ends in xxxx-mbn-671 as opposed to 670. Don't forget to reassemble with a moly grease as per the Honda Manual. Good luck!
Paul :thumbsup:

  • smashinz2002

Posted May 25, 2004 - 06:28 PM

#5

You can avoid the clutch bushing problem by not letting the bike idle in gear with the clutch pulled in. Take it out of gear to idle. I've got over 4000 miles on mine now and it's never seized, so I guess that tip works, I read it somewhere forgot where though.
If it does seize, I have no idea how much damage is done by that. Best bet would be to upgrade to the newer bushing, which has 2 extra oil holes so I hear, not sure.
L.L.

'00 XR650R
'04 KX500

  • TimBrp

Posted May 26, 2004 - 01:35 AM

#6

I believe the updated bushing has the added Gallery in the center for my oil dispursement.

  • SaltyWalrus

Posted May 26, 2004 - 02:14 AM

#7

I replaced the clutch bushing on my '01 at 120 miles. I had been carefull not to idle in gear with the clutch in. I was glad I replaced it as the outer race (where the two additional holes were added for increased oil flow in the updated bushing) was all shiny and galded. I don't know if it would have seized, but it showed signs of not being happy. And after only 120 miles. It was pretty easy to repair, just a little scary chisling at the part of the nut that is bent into the notch of the shaft to lock the nut in place.

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  • stonewall

Posted May 27, 2004 - 04:28 AM

#8

All this clutch bushing talk finally convinced me to dig out the updated part I bought over a year ago and install it. When I got it out the old bushing looked just as good as the new one I put in. There was no sign of wear at all.
I should have spent the afternoon riding instead. :thumbsup:

  • heliosstudios

Posted May 27, 2004 - 04:37 AM

#9

Hmm, are you using a super synthetic oil? Curious...

  • SaltyWalrus

Posted May 27, 2004 - 04:39 AM

#10

Did the old bushing only have two lubrication holes, or 4 like the new one you put in?

  • stonewall

Posted May 27, 2004 - 04:45 AM

#11

For the past 3,000 or so miles I have used Mobil 1 synthetic, before that Castrol GTX :thumbsup:
It has over 6,000 miles and the bushing looked as good as new. :awww:

  • stonewall

Posted May 27, 2004 - 04:50 AM

#12

It was the old bushing with only two holes. The new one had four holes and an oil gallery cut into the inner bushing. I'm sure it will be better lubricated but the old bushing was holding up just fine.

  • SaltyWalrus

Posted May 27, 2004 - 05:04 AM

#13

That's weird. I wonder why mine would show wear at 120 miles and yours would show no wear after 6000. I am using Shell Rotella dino oil for break in. I changed it at 10 miles and 100 miles before changing bushing. I plan on switching (after reading many of Qadsan's posts) to Rotella synthetic soon (500 miles).

  • BIGTONY

Posted May 27, 2004 - 09:15 AM

#14

I guess its just the luck of the draw when it comes to the life span of the bushing. Im sure oil quality plays a big part. Also as all parts have dimensional tolerances allowed, maybe the guys with the problems(myself included) just were unlucky to get a combination of parts with tolerances on the high or low end. In electronics we refered to this as a marriage problem( where one part tested fine and the other part also was in spec, but they wouldnt worked together, but would work fine if mated to other components?) I can say the fit must have been pretty tight between my bushing and the basket. I just picked up my new bushing, as well as my basket from the dealer. The mechanic said it took 9 TON's(18,000 lbs!!) of pressure to remove the bushing from the basket center. Sure enough the bushing, and the basket are mangled at the last 1/4 inch of the bushing. Its strange how all the damage is all at the end. Now im going to grind down and polish the basket damage(beats $300 for a new one!)Reassemble the cases fill oil, run/ride, drain the oil , check the screen nut, then refill with repsol full synthetic, and never leave it in gear with the clutch pulled in for more than a second again!! :thumbsup:

  • heliosstudios

Posted May 28, 2004 - 07:14 AM

#15

That is really quirky that the bushing locked up while idling in gear like that. I think the owner's manual even says something about avoiding idling in gear. Can't say I've ever heard any other bike do this before though.

Good to hear things are on the up-and-up. Lets hope there are no more surprises! :thumbsup:





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