2002 426 Suspension Setup

10 replies to this topic
  • JSTheJack

Posted May 30, 2002 - 08:25 AM



Great board, better than most of the flaming Harley boards. Anyhow, I've got a 2002 426 and have a few questions about fork setups that hopefully somebody can point me in the rigt direction. I'm sure similar questions have been posted before.

The rear suspension is great, but I'd like the front end to be more stiff. Right now I'm running the compression valves at 0 clicks out and the rebound at 8 clicks out; stock springs, stock oil weight, and stock oil height (haven't torn into the front end yet). Seems ok, but it will sometime bottom on the big jumps...or a screw up.

I'm 6'1" and 230 lbs and want to go to stiffer springs, like the RaceTech 0.497 kg/mm (I think that's right). I don't know how much the valving affects the ride, for example Gold Valves etc. I don't have any experience with the valving, only on swapping the springs. I ride predominately moto-x and like to jump everything in sight.

So the questions are:
1. Does revalving have a big impact on fork operation?

2. Any recommended fork spring rates?

Thanks for any replies

  • 98yz

Posted May 30, 2002 - 09:06 PM


Valving has a big impact on for action. I use www.motopro.com or www.gp-racing.com. Any of the fork guides on Pro-Action, Race Tech or any other are pretty close. Just a question but if the rear spring is pretty close and you can set the sag properly you shouldn't have to adjust more than 1 spring rate up. Do you land off of jumps alot of the time with the front end high and slapping it down. I have my 426 fully worked except for bottoming cones, and as long as I land nose down in good body position the front handles anything. But if I slap the front down they blow right thru the stroke and clank as they bottom. Just my 2 cents worth. Hope it helps some.

  • JSTheJack

Posted May 30, 2002 - 09:27 PM


No, I don't slap the front end down too often. I pretty much dive bomb the front end in to the landing if possible. The problem that I'm experiencing is that if I approach a really long table and want to work up to clearing it, I'll end up in "no mans" land near the end of the jump that can result in bottoming the front end 'cuz I think it's too soft.

I've been thinking that maybe I'll try heavier fork oil first.

[ May 30, 2002: Message edited by: JSTheJack ]

  • skthom2320

Posted May 30, 2002 - 09:41 PM


I'm 185 lbs Novice and had my suspension done by a local suspension shop. They revalved both ends and put one stiffer spring on the rear. Unbelievable difference.

Yes, revalving can have a HUGE impact.

If you are going to stay with the stock valving, you DEFINITELY will want stiffer fork springs. At least one or two stiffer than stock.

Before I had my suspension done I had raised the fork oil height to 115 mm (and two more clicks SOFTER afterwards) to reduce the bottoming and have a plusher initial stroke. It made a big difference but nowhere near as much as the revalve.

  • flyinguitars

Posted May 30, 2002 - 10:00 AM


I figured Id share this. I just talked to a local suspension guy with a great reputation here in New Jersey. He gave me a qoute of 450.00 for a revalve, one size stiffer springs, cleaning and oil change for the forks and the back shock. Ive been experiencing the same problem if I come up short or overshoot a big tabletop. Im 6'4" 212 lbs, if I land flat sometimes I bottom the shock and feel it transmitt the "clank" right up into my spine. When the forks bottom out, it kills my wrists. I'll let you know how the suspension mods work out when I get it back.

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  • 98yz

Posted May 30, 2002 - 11:56 AM


Flyin the mods will work great. Good Price as well.

  • Mark_Cantrell

Posted May 30, 2002 - 02:19 PM



Running in the clickers makes the fork harsher in all compression (fast, slow, full stroke, partial stroke). Instead for bottoming protection, add oil. There is roughly a 1cc per 1mm fork oil height. Go 10cc's to start. This will still be plush with increasing resistance as you compress toward end of stroke.

I posted a description of fork action that may be interesting.

Valving would be your best bet but most expensive. Adding 10 or 20mm of oil would be next most effective and almost free. Adding a bigger bottoming bumper next and cheap. Finally adjusting clickers is free but not very effective and makes entire range of suspension harsher.

Good luck,

  • 98yz

Posted May 30, 2002 - 02:36 PM


To continue with what Mark said, set you clickers at the mid point. Add oil there and then make the fine adjustments with a few clicks in or out after that.

  • grashoper250

Posted May 30, 2002 - 06:00 PM


JS, I weigh the same as you and work up to clearing jumps the same as you, I also have a o2 426. Right now my set-up is .49 springs, Maxima 7wt oil with the level set 105mm from the top. Ive been using this set-up for several months and it works good enough for me to not send them out for a revalve. It handles comming up short on big table tops pretty good as well as overjumping. I also have Factory Connection base valves (base valves for heavy riders) in my forks but this set-up is still good without them. Hope this at least gives you a starting point to work from.

  • moorespeed426

Posted May 30, 2002 - 06:15 PM


I also weigh 230lbs, I installed .48 springs and race tech gold valves. I am very pleased with the results, no more fear of landing out of wack like I usually do.

  • JSTheJack

Posted May 31, 2002 - 03:58 AM


To everyone, thanks for all the informative responses. I can see light at the end of the tunnel...again.

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