Sand Paddle WR 450 2004


10 replies to this topic
  • trunkmonkey55

Posted April 22, 2004 - 12:49 PM

#1

does anyone have any great amazing tricks to changing the rear tire for a 04 wr450. I put a paddle on and now its time to switch back. It was a pain in my as$ to put the paddle on with 2 other people and took over an hour. some one please tell me if there is a faster, - easyer way to do this. :)

  • dez4ever

Posted April 22, 2004 - 12:51 PM

#2

Pay the money and have someone else do it.

  • trunkmonkey55

Posted April 22, 2004 - 01:00 PM

#3

other than paying 400 bucks for A new wheel or paying 35 bucks for some pimple faced, cocky punk at the yamaha shop to do it.

  • gfergtr74

Posted April 22, 2004 - 02:19 PM

#4

I use three long tire irons and just work my way around. They are a real sob but after a few times they get easier.

  • The_Missile

Posted April 23, 2004 - 02:44 AM

#5

- wear gloves !! :)
- warm tires in the sun or whatever you have handy !!! (more pliable)
- remove the inner part of the valve so all air can get out of the tube.
- jump up and down on the tire when deflated to break the bead on both sides
- lube the rims - WD40 works well, or get some cooking oil....washes off and degrades easily.
- min 2-, better 3 long tire irons (If you can get one which hooks on the spokes this can serve as a 3'rd hand)
- use a plastic, rubber hammer to hammer the tire if needed (to remove)
- when re-inserting tyre fit the innertube in the tire first and prior to fitting either of the rims, get the darn valve stem through the rim and thread a nut on there. You now dont have to "ç%"% around trying to fit the darn valve stem 'blind'.
- leave the gripster loose (but with a nut on it) and ensure you fit the first rim under it. Don't worry about the other side until later: when you have both rims on, use your tire irons to lift the bead and jigger the gripster about until it sits correctly

One of these days i'll build myself a wedge of two strips of metal to fit on my bench where I can slide and jam my sproket/discbrake under it will hold the wheel tight whilst I lever away.

Good luck..even with the above tipe I hate it, but it only takes my 20 mins tops now from start to finish.

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  • Frostbite

Posted April 23, 2004 - 05:12 AM

#6

I swap my tires back and forth a lot. I also mount studded ice tires built up with 2 street tires inside my knobby to give something for 2 inch screws to bite into. They are stiff bee-yatches to mount and the studs can rip your hands up if you're not careful. The first thing you want to do is soften the tire up. If you have a wood stove, fire it up and hang the wheel over. If not, toss it in a bathtub full of hot water, that's what I do here since there are no woodstoves - no trees. When the steel beads in the tire are warm they'll stretch easily. I have broken beads trying to force cold tires on a rim. Spend a couple of bucks on real tire irons. I have 4. No more pinched tubes and they don't slip off the tire bead like screwdrivers do. Dry rubber makes the job tough no matter what you're doing. You want some tire soap for lubrication. Most car shops that change tires carry it or you can mix a little dishwashing liquid with water. That's what I use and I leave it in the bottle so I can just squirt it on the rim.
I use the discs and sprocket to hold my tire irons in place as I go. Let's take the toughest tire as an example, rear with 2 rim locks.
Pop the wheel off the bike warm up the rubber.
Remove the valve stem from the tube. If you just let the air out, some will be left in the tube and can take up that last bit of clearance you need to clear the rim. With the stem out, air in the tube will release as you go.
Remove the nut and washer from the rim lock. Push the stem of the rim lock in towards the rim to make sure it's not stuck. If it is stuck, it'll hold the tire on the rim bead.
Lay the wheel on the floor and using the heels of your boots, pop the tire from the rim bead all the way around and then flip the wheel over and do the other side. You need both sides of the tire completely off the rim bead.
Apply lots of lube between the tire and rim on both sides. It'll dry fast since the tire is warm so you keep wetting it down as you go.
Lay the wheel flat in front of you, sprocket side up, slip in the tire irons and pop this side of the tire off the rim. Slip your hand in and remove the tube. If the tire is stiff or if you have big hands and find it hard to get inside, pull up the edge of the tire and slip some spacers between the tire and rim to hold it open.
Next you want to remove the rim locks. Put a spacer on either side of the first lock. Then flip the wheel over and slip one tire iron in right beside the lock like you're going to pop the tire off on that side. Flip the iron all the way over and hook it under the disc to hold it in place, and then turn the wheel back over with the sprocket up so the tire iron is under the wheel. Now the spacers are holding the tire open and the iron is holding the other side against the rim so you have lots of room to get your fingers in and remove the rim lock. Slip the tube protectin' rubber rim band off of the rim lock and remove the lock. Repeat the procedure for the other lock if you have 2, and you can also do this to get the tube stem out if the tire is small. When you are reinstalling the tire,using the spacers and the tire iron on the opposite side make it easy to install the tube stem and locks. No more blind searching for the holes in the rim.
Now that the tube and locks are gone, make sure the tire is still wet and pop the remaining side over the rim with your tire irons.
To install the new tire just reverse the procedure. Pop one side of the tire on first, install both rimlocks using spacers and tire iron, install tube, and pop on the other side. If you are installing a new tube, blow it up a bit first. A flattened out tube in the wheel is going to get pinched. Sometimes I'll put a bit of air in the tube to round it out and bleed off the air as the tire goes on and I need the clearance. I don't think twice about swapping tires and haven't pinched a tube in years.

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  • JVP

Posted April 24, 2004 - 11:49 AM

#7

I change tires a lot for me, my son, and now all my friends. They feed me beers and I do the work. Anyway, the last couple of posts were good descriptions on how to change tires. I will only add. 1. You need good quality tire irons. I have a big and medium set of Motion Pro Irons. 2. I also use baby power inside the tire. This prevents the tube from sticking to the inside wall of the tire. 3. Buy a good quality valve stem remover. It saves a lot of time. 4. Whenever I change a tire, I alway check the spokes and the alignment of the wheel. With practice anyone can change a tire in 10 minutes(wheel off and back on). :)

  • gfergtr74

Posted April 24, 2004 - 12:30 PM

#8

A great and cheap valve stem core remover. Get one rubber valve stem from local tire shop. Find one of the metal valve stem caps that have the core remover tip and loctite it to the rubber valve stem. Works really well. :)

  • Frostbite

Posted April 24, 2004 - 02:47 PM

#9

Ah yes, how could I forget the baby powder. It also smells better than old rubber so your girlfriend won't mind as much when you change tires in the living room. :) One other thing I might add for guys who get a lot of flats. i always wrap an old inner tube around the good one when I change tires. Haven't had a flat since I started doing that. Baby powder is important here since there's lots of layers of rubber moving around.

  • Indy_WR450

Posted April 25, 2004 - 04:15 AM

#10

I like WD40 over baby powder. Slick but evaporates or soaks into the rubber in hours. :)

  • Frostbite

Posted April 25, 2004 - 02:20 PM

#11

I think you may think that we mean to use if for a mounting lube, but that's not it. The baby powder is poured inside the tire and coats the tube and lets it slip inside the tire so you don't tear a valve stem if the tire slips on the rim. I have to wrap 2 tubes around my good tube to keep my studs from pinching and I pour in lots to keep all that rubber from bunching up. I used to use it roadracing too. Rub a little on the seat just before the race and it was the opposite of a gripper seat cover. It would keep the leathers from sticking to the seat on hot days and let you climb from side to side a lot quicker and smoother.
I still use tire soap to mount the tire but am going to try the WD next time. I didn't realize that it would dry up and loose its slippery ness. Thanks for the tip. :) :D :D




 
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