Super Trapp IDS2 quiet pipe on XR650L


17 replies to this topic
  • slip

Posted April 19, 2004 - 02:36 PM

#1

Did it improve performance. I had an XR Only's pipe on mine and loved the Power Boost. But it was just too loud, so I sold it. I have the stock pipe on now and I am thinking about another pipe. :)

  • Dual_Dog

Posted April 19, 2004 - 02:59 PM

#2

Did it improve performance. :D


Hey slip,

You've seen my posts about the XRL. The Trapp is (and always has been) a good aftermarket "slip" on. :) Sorry, couldn't resist.

Anyway, I've got the IDS2 QS and it does work. I'm running 7 disks with a 155 main, 55 slow and a Uni-filter. Now granted it's not a Big Gun Race Series or full Yoshi system, but it's miles ahead of the stock system. Unlike the others, if you don't get on it it isn't very loud. The same goes for it at startup and idle.

The best part of the IDS2 QS, or any Trapp for that matter, is the ability to tune it for the motor and mods you've done or are planning on doing. More disks for top end power, or fewer for low end pull, not to mention less noise. Plus it's about 5 pounds lighter than the stock constrictor.

About the only thing that would make the IDS2 QS any better would be a set of headers. Then you would get the most HP gain on the exhaust side of things.

  • enduromaniac

Posted April 19, 2004 - 06:47 PM

#3

I've been looking at the IDS2 quiet series too, because it is supposed to be quietest of the aftermarket pipes. But I've also read a lot of owner reviews that claim it's quiet at first, but after a few hundred miles it blows the packing out, and gets pretty loud. I'm thinking if I wait another year, the aftermarket is going to have to come up with something that actually lives up to the "quiet" designation, and yet improves performance. Too many states are setting decibel limits, and the aftermarket will have to respond. What most of them are now calling quiet, are running 96-98 decibels. That isn't quiet. That's loud.

  • enduromaniac

Posted April 19, 2004 - 06:51 PM

#4

ps...wondering what a White Bros. e series S bend would sound like...(with a quiet core)

  • Buckarmadillo

Posted April 19, 2004 - 07:42 PM

#5

Maybe tomorrow I can get an idea of loud. I am installing a full Yoshimura system, but I will be putting the TEK baffle in for my neighbors. Of course I will have to make at least one trip down the Harley owner's street a couple of blocks away without the baffle. His T shirt says something about "loud pipes"....

  • Dual_Dog

Posted April 20, 2004 - 05:53 AM

#6

But I've also read a lot of owner reviews that claim it's quiet at first, but after a few hundred miles it blows the packing out, and gets pretty loud.


I've put over 2K miles on this Trapp and it had 1.8K miles on it already when I bought the bike. I've had other Trapps and put over 10K miles on them with really no "audible," not measured, sound difference.

Being that much louder after a few hundred miles seems a bit exaggerated. But like the any exhaust, even the stock systems, they get louder the more miles you put on them. The benefit of this design is the disk system to quiet it down when and if you really need to.

There's nothing wrong with the stock system. The aftermarket slip-ons are just an (expensive) performance enhancer and weight reducer. Headers add to the performance increase but also to the overall cost.

  • slip

Posted April 22, 2004 - 02:43 PM

#7

Calling Dual_Dog, I just recieved the ST pipe. When looking thru the parts and instructions, it looks like I will have to get an S-bend to header gasket, no? :D :)

  • Dual_Dog

Posted April 22, 2004 - 03:18 PM

#8

Hey slip, D_D here.

I've never used gaskets to connect the two together for all of the Trapps I've had on four different Thumpers. Think of it like an aftermarket muffler for a car/truck. Just "slip" it on and clamp it down. The diameters are very close in size so there isn't any room or need for one. Not sure why the instructions show one. :)

You will see a little, and I mean a little, black soot at the S-bend/header pipe connection slots that escapes from under supplied clamp. Nothing to worry about. Can't hear or feel anything at the joint and the pipes don't fuse together.

Let us know how the install goes and how you like your new Trapp. I think you'll be STOKED! :D

  • slip

Posted April 22, 2004 - 03:56 PM

#9

Thanks D_D. :) One more question. How many disc are you running? I have a 55 pilot and a 155 main jet installed. :D

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  • Dual_Dog

Posted April 22, 2004 - 05:53 PM

#10

I've got the same jetting as you do, slide drilled & needle shimmed, I have a Uni-filter & the pilot screw is backed out 3 turns. Right now I'm running 7 disks and the bike is working great. I had 8 in there before, but it seemed just a bit too loud and I like the lower end pull with less disks. :D

What I usually do is put in way too many, and then start taking them out one at a time until you've taken too many out. Then start putting more back in, again one at a time. :)

Lots of trial & error and not very scientific. But its really the only way (without a Dyno) to tell how the motor will respond to the different volume of exhaust being released. :D

  • slip

Posted April 24, 2004 - 09:56 AM

#11

I've got the same jetting as you do, slide drilled & needle shimmed, I have a Uni-filter & the pilot screw is backed out 3 turns. Right now I'm running 7 disks and the bike is working great. I had 8 in there before, but it seemed just a bit too loud and I like the lower end pull with less disks. :D

What I usually do is put in way too many, and then start taking them out one at a time until you've taken too many out. Then start putting more back in, again one at a time. :usa:

Lots of trial & error and not very scientific. But its really the only way (without a Dyno) to tell how the motor will respond to the different volume of exhaust being released. :D


This pipe is saweet. Installation was a breeze, Super Trapp supplies you with everything you need, including the T-handle allen wrench for intalling the disks. I started out with 9 disks, and I like it so far! :) I pulled a wheelie in first and when the front tire hit the ground I hit second hard, and the front wheel came up again. :D :D :usa: This is the best pipe I have had on it. The L motor just runs sooo much better with an aftermarket pipe. :usa: Keep on thumping!

  • Dual_Dog

Posted April 24, 2004 - 10:52 AM

#12

This is the best pipe I have had on it. The L motor just runs sooo much better with an aftermarket pipe. :D Keep on thumping!


Trapps are BAD_SS! I've had one on every Thumper I've owned going back to '82. More power, better performance & lightweight. Can't ask for more than that from a bolt-on mod. :)

  • xrwheelyman

Posted May 19, 2004 - 06:41 PM

#13

Thanks D_D. :awww: One more question. How many disc are you running? I have a 55 pilot and a 155 main jet installed. :thumbsup:

I am trying to get my Bros. XR650L "01" model running. I put a Super Trapp ISD2 on it and a IMS block off kit on it. I cant find any pilot jets larger than the stock 50. It has a serious off idle bog and is really gutless. It had more power before the unplug and new pipe. Any ideas or input on my Bros problem?
Thanks,
Randy

  • Dual_Dog

Posted May 20, 2004 - 11:09 AM

#14

Have you checked online for the jets? You can get them from, once again, Baja Designs. It's where I got my 55 slow (pilot) jet.

What about drilling the vacuum slide and shimming the jet needle .030"? These will help the 0-1/4 throttle performance problems. You do need to r/r the carb to do this mod and to initially to change the jets. I've heard of folks changing the float bowl phillips screws to allen heads so they can get at the jets without r/r'g the carb. I've taken out the carb twice on my XRL. It's not too bad if you have a manual.

Did you check or adjust the pilot screw under the carb yet? Mine is set 3 turns out from being fully seated. If the metal tab is on the screw you need to grind it off in order to back it out, 1/4-1/2 turn at a time, to richen up the mixture.

These carbs are VERY sensitive and are jetted really lean. Once you've dialed it in, and it does take time, it'll run strong and crisp. No more bogging, hesitation or cutting out. I know. I went through it all. But it was well worth it. Uncorking is the ticket.

  • slip

Posted May 20, 2004 - 03:54 PM

#15

Suggestion: When taking the carb apart. Use a impact driver, or else you will bugger up the screws for sure. They are made of a very soft metal. :thumbsup:

  • xrwheelyman

Posted May 21, 2004 - 03:51 PM

#16

I just ordered a Jet kit from Baja Designs. It sounds like that is going to straighten it out..... Thanks for the tip
Randy

  • xrwheelyman

Posted May 22, 2004 - 04:37 AM

#17

Any info on drillilng the slide and shimming the needle? I do believe this and the jet kit I ordered will help me out a bunch. The bike after being unplugged, used an IMS block off kit and a new ISD2 Super Trapp is much slower than it was stock. I hope after all this it goes atleast as good as it was stock.

  • Dual_Dog

Posted May 22, 2004 - 05:42 AM

#18

Any info on drillilng the slide and shimming the needle? I do believe this and the jet kit I ordered will help me out a bunch. The bike after being unplugged, used an IMS block off kit and a new ISD2 Super Trapp is much slower than it was stock. I hope after all this it goes atleast as good as it was stock.


The stock carb is lean to begin with. Now that you've got a pipe on it it's even leaner or slower. You HAVE to rejet. Once you do the bike will perform MUCH better.

The slide drilling is not complicated, but you need a manual to tear the carb apart, or at least I did. The vacuum piston (slide) has three holes that are in a triangular pattern, two close to the edge and one in the center. Drill out only the two outboard holes with a 5/32" bit. Be careful not to damage the VERY thin diaphragm attached to the slide and clean ALL shavings. Do it twice to make 100% sure its CLEAN. :awww:

Shimming the needle is done after you've removed the slide, removed the jet needle holder and needle, and drilled the two outboard slide holes. You need to find/make a VERY small washer that is between .030" & .032" thick. This translates to about 1/32".

I made mine out of a spray can plastic cap which is about .03125", or 1/32" thick. I drilled a clearance hole for the jet needle (a couple of them in different spots) and then used tin snips, not shears, and a razor knife to cut the plastic the same size diameter as the head of the jet needle. The jet needle looks like a small nail or needle that's tapered at the end. This is where you'll pick up better idle to 1/8 throttle performance. By shimming (raising) the needle you are allowing more fuel to enter the carburator through the needle jet holder when the slide is at rest or not moving upward.

I sort of understand the theory behind it, but what I do know is after that I drilled the slide and shimmed the needle, the XRL ran a HELL-UVA-LOT better and would idle normally (after adjusting the pilot screw and idle thumb screw). Remember the comment about taking a while?

One more comment. After I did all this carb work and tried to start the beast like when the carb was stock, it flooded. I figured out that instead of using full choke it only needs 1/2 choke, stopping right at the detent. Bike fires up immediately and after (full) warmup idles steady.

If you do a search here and/or go to the XRL usergroup on Yahoo, you'll get a wealth of XRL specific information and more details about tweaking the BFP (Big Fat Pig) to make it more like an XRR (like mine), supermotard, highway cruiser, whatever. Check it out! :thumbsup:





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