Help - general maintenance........OIL
Posted April 19, 2004 - 03:51 AM
I'm not the smartest duck on the pond but I know this thing takes twice as much oil as I was able to put in. Any ideas?
Posted April 19, 2004 - 05:30 AM
Posted April 19, 2004 - 05:35 AM
I'll drain it again from both drain plugs & try again.
Posted April 19, 2004 - 08:19 AM
So, I just learned that there is no shortcut to draining the oil from these bikes. Follow the manual and it'll be fine, don't and you get a mess.
Posted April 19, 2004 - 05:35 PM
Posted April 19, 2004 - 10:39 PM
From memory, there is a ball valve that prevents the tank oil draining into the sump.I drain the tank by removing the pipe that goes from the frame to the bottom of the inner clutch cover(remove it at the bottom). This ensures that you get as much of the old oil out as possible.
This is how the YZ/Wr oil system works. There are 2 oil pumps. The scavenge pump collects oil from the bottom of the sump and returns it to the tank. The main oil pump collects oil from the tank and pumps it to the engines oil galleries. All things working well, when you drain the sump you should only get about 300ml of oil. If you get a lot more than that from the sump the scavange pump isn't working correctly.
hope this helps,
Posted April 20, 2004 - 11:51 AM
The WR's use a dry sump design. However, oil has to pumped up to the frame sump from the engine case. There is only one oil pump - not two. This is why you have to warm the engine up before you can check the oil level as it won't even register on the dipstick if you don't - it's down in the case. BTW, you should always add oil to the engine case - not the frame sump.
Here's the procedure I use and it works every time:
1) Run the engine long enough to warm it up. This is primarily because warm oil drains easier and more thoroughly than cold oil, and it helps to get a lot of the combustion contaminants out more effectively.
2) Now the frame sump and engine case will both have oil in them. Drain them both thoroughly.
3) Inspect the copper washers and replace if needed - they don't last forever. Reinstall and retorque the drain bolts
4) Fill with recommended amount of oil depending on whether or not you are changing the filter.
5) Start the engine and let it run for the minimum specified time in the manual - this is to ensure that the oil measurement in the frame sump will be reasonably accurate. It's not a bad idea to check the oil pressure while the engine is idling too.
6) Check the oil level and adjust as needed by adding oil to the engine case only. Restart, idle, recheck until you get the level where it should be. It's usually fine on the first check.
As I said, this method works perfectly for me.