Charcoal canister removal...............


15 replies to this topic
  • TxRenegade

Posted April 16, 2004 - 03:22 PM

#1

When you remove the canister, can you cap the ports or do you need to route them together? I have them hooked together now, but would like to just cap them, but not sure if it would build up to much pressure in the cover.

  • Duken4evr

Posted April 16, 2004 - 03:37 PM

#2

Cap the nipple on the bottom front of the carb, let the nipple on the bottom of the tank vent to the atmosphere, and remove the cannister and it's assorted hoses and you are good to go.

  • 12Many

Posted April 17, 2004 - 08:37 AM

#3

Keep in mind that there is a roll-over valve on the line that runs from the tank to the canister. This valve can become clogged? and not allow the tank to breath. Many take this valve off also. Trace the lines back and it will lead you to the valve. One line runs to the carb and the other to the valve and then to the tank. Use the search function as there are many posts on this. :)

  • stanky1

Posted April 17, 2004 - 09:41 AM

#4

With the help of the fine people on this site, I did what was suggested above. It was easy, and I have no more problems stalling out.

For desert riding, I plan to get a piece of velcro and attach a bottle of Gatorade where the carbon cannister used to sit.

  • TxRenegade

Posted April 17, 2004 - 12:29 PM

#5

I don't know about that part, mine is a 2000 y model, only dirt, I don't have any line that goes to the tank. My tank breaths through a hose in the cap like most dirtbikes do.
I capped the bottom port, and let the other just hang, it blow oil all over everything. I assume I need to do something else to solve that problem. Maybe just run a small hose from the top to where the carb hoses go, and let it just breath.

  • Duken4evr

Posted April 17, 2004 - 03:28 PM

#6

Hmm. Sounds like you are messing with the black plastic box on the right (throttle side) frame rail next to the carb? That is an air/oil seperator for the crankcase. Leave that puppy alone, it serves a purpose.

If you have an "E" model with a "normal" vented gas cap, you don't have a charcoal cannister. That is smogware that is affixed to only California S models.

  • Bschu

Posted July 05, 2005 - 08:58 PM

#7

In doing the stated above, should a 3x3 hole be cut into the airbox at the same time? I have removed the charcoal canister, have not yet plugged the front of the carb. Do I just plug the hole on the front of the carb, and remove all the hoses then?? Haven't drilled the fuel mix screw hole yet? should I? or just re-jet it????

  • tom slick

Posted July 05, 2005 - 09:29 PM

#8

unless the cannister you are messing with is mounted under the rear fender, you are messing with the wrong system. the black box next to your carb is part of the crankcase breather system. the majority of people that mess with it later complain that they wished they didn't :)

  • Bschu

Posted July 05, 2005 - 10:19 PM

#9

I'm talking about the charcoal canister. That is off now, today at elevations of 10k feet plus, my bike coughed and sputtered anytime fuel was given. ON a break I removed the snorkel and noticed a difference up high, down low there was sputtering at top end , wide open. Should i proceed with 3x3 mod. and take it to local shop at altitude and have these guys jet it? But was wondering about just plugging the hole on the front of carb. after removing canister? thanks, B.S.

  • tom slick

Posted July 06, 2005 - 05:07 PM

#10

you need to do the 3x3 mod, install the dynojet needle and spring, 25 pilot jet, and install a main jet proper for the altitude you are riding at. at sea level the recommended main jet is 140, at 10k feet you probably need a 126.

  • DrDano

Posted July 06, 2005 - 06:03 PM

#11

But was wondering about just plugging the hole on the front of carb. after removing canister? thanks, B.S.


I plugged the carb after removing the canister. No problems.

  • Bschu

Posted July 06, 2005 - 08:49 PM

#12

Just got back from a quick evening ride, what a difference. A 3x3 hole was cut after, I removed the charcoal canister. Rode the bike noticed no diff. Took it to shop today and had 14/47 gears put on and a 150 jet, with the mod. I now own a dirt bike, wheelies at will!! even with stock exhaust!! Its great to slowly pop through single track in second, and know you have power!! WOOHOOO!! Thanks for you input!! Also I live at 8000 feet, the shop seems to have the mix right.

  • richgiffen

Posted July 06, 2005 - 10:08 PM

#13

im having the same problem with the removal of my charcoal canister. I am also installing a clarke 3.9 tank at the same time. I have removed all the hoses and dont know which ones to reattach and to where. HELP!!!! my bike feels like it has lost power and it idles different now. Perhaps it is in my head but still HELP!!! :) :)

  • Bschu

Posted July 07, 2005 - 09:51 AM

#14

The mechanic at the local shop also removed my oil/air seperator and re-routed the lines, wondering about the effects of this, what purpose it plays? He said I might notice a small amount of oil drip when the bike is hot. Noticed that E models have this. Do I need to have him re-install it? Thanks,bs

  • shleppy

Posted March 07, 2007 - 07:55 PM

#15

im having the same problem with the removal of my charcoal canister. I am also installing a clarke 3.9 tank at the same time. I have removed all the hoses and dont know which ones to reattach and to where. HELP!!!! my bike feels like it has lost power and it idles different now. Perhaps it is in my head but still HELP!!! :lol: :eek:


Hey richgiffen... I just did this to my DRZ a few days ago so maybe I can lend a hand. If you pulled the charcoal canister off the bike and have pulled off all the lines going from the carb to the canister and all the lines running from the canister to the tank...you have no problem at all. Your just a few steps away from getting things where they should be :naughty:

I am assuming that you have pulled off the gas tank and pulled off all the lines that run from the tank to the canister, and from the canister to the carb (including the one section of tubing that runs through the middle of the bike to the front of the carb.. you have to remove some of the zip ties to get this piece of tubing away from the other lines.) If that is where you are...here is what you can do to get the bike running properly again...


---First thing you need to do is plug the carb---

On the front bottom side of the carb you should see an open port where one of the lines that went to the canister used to attach. You need to plug this port. You can use a few methods to plug it... 1- Use a rubber vacuum cap and simply cap it off (available at any local auto parts store.. I found a four pack of them at my local Auto Zone for $2.00) This is the best way to do it. 2 - If you can't find a plug some people just cut a small piece of hose (a couple of inches long) from the section of hose that you just pulled off the front of the carb. Now find a screw that will thread into one end of the short hose section pretty tightly. Thread the screw to one end of the short section of tube (make sure it's tight and forms a decent seal). You might even want to put a small zip tie around this end of the hose. Now take the other end of the short hose and put it back onto the port. Use the original hose clamp to secure it to the carb.


--Second thing you need to do is to vent your tank with hose line--

Normally you would attach a piece of rubber hose from the stock tank vent (located one the rear bottom of the tank) and run the tubing down to the bottom of your bike where you see another line hanging (right next to your rear swing arm on the bottom). I used a piece of hose that was originally running to my newly removed canister to do this. Since you are installing a new tank, your tank vent port might be in a different spot, but the principle is the same.. just run a line from the port to the bottom of the bike if you can. If your vent port is in a wacky spot just vent it towards teh bottom of the bike as best you can.


I hope this helps you out :applause: :lol:

  • zac949

Posted March 07, 2007 - 09:12 PM

#16

Hey richgiffen... I just did this to my DRZ a few days ago so maybe I can lend a hand. If you pulled the charcoal canister off the bike and have pulled off all the lines going from the carb to the canister and all the lines running from the canister to the tank...you have no problem at all. Your just a few steps away from getting things where they should be :eek:

I am assuming that you have pulled off the gas tank and pulled off all the lines that run from the tank to the canister, and from the canister to the carb (including the one section of tubing that runs through the middle of the bike to the front of the carb.. you have to remove some of the zip ties to get this piece of tubing away from the other lines.) If that is where you are...here is what you can do to get the bike running properly again...


---First thing you need to do is plug the carb---

On the front bottom side of the carb you should see an open port where one of the lines that went to the canister used to attach. You need to plug this port. You can use a few methods to plug it... 1- Use a rubber vacuum cap and simply cap it off (available at any local auto parts store.. I found a four pack of them at my local Auto Zone for $2.00) This is the best way to do it. 2 - If you can't find a plug some people just cut a small piece of hose (a couple of inches long) from the section of hose that you just pulled off the front of the carb. Now find a screw that will thread into one end of the short hose section pretty tightly. Thread the screw to one end of the short section of tube (make sure it's tight and forms a decent seal). You might even want to put a small zip tie around this end of the hose. Now take the other end of the short hose and put it back onto the port. Use the original hose clamp to secure it to the carb.


--Second thing you need to do is to vent your tank with hose line--

Normally you would attach a piece of rubber hose from the stock tank vent (located one the rear bottom of the tank) and run the tubing down to the bottom of your bike where you see another line hanging (right next to your rear swing arm on the bottom). I used a piece of hose that was originally running to my newly removed canister to do this. Since you are installing a new tank, your tank vent port might be in a different spot, but the principle is the same.. just run a line from the port to the bottom of the bike if you can. If your vent port is in a wacky spot just vent it towards teh bottom of the bike as best you can.


I hope this helps you out :applause: :lol:



good to hear you got it done....now doesnt your bike look better? :lol:





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