removing white stress marks from blue plastic???????????


21 replies to this topic
  • mulisha00

Posted April 11, 2004 - 12:39 PM

#1

I cannot remember where i have seen it but i thought i read one time that if you took a heatgun or hairdryer to the white stress marks in blue yz plastic they would dissappear. has anyone done this? or know another method?
:) :D

  • sirthumpalot

Posted April 11, 2004 - 12:46 PM

#2

I have done it and yes it works. I don't remember why but I ended up VERY CAREFULLY using a torch. I think the hair dryer didn't get hot enough... Anyway, by the time the white disappears it's pretty darn hot, be careful because it can deform (sag) under the heat a little bit when it's that hot. It does work though!

  • mulisha00

Posted April 11, 2004 - 01:07 PM

#3

did you apply heat to the inside or out of fenders?

  • sirthumpalot

Posted April 11, 2004 - 01:13 PM

#4

I used it on my shrouds and front fender, I applied heat to both sides but now that I think about it, I tried to apply most to the side that the public doesn't see. It was a while ago so I don't remember all of the details, I do have to do it again though as I've had a few get-offs and my front fender looks like a blue zebra. :) I'm not much of a perfectionist in the looks department so maybe someone else can give better details about how to make it look truely new again.

  • mulisha00

Posted April 11, 2004 - 01:34 PM

#5

just go a new bike and doing the initial clean when you buy something. i'll go try the torch and let you know.

  • mikev7

Posted April 11, 2004 - 01:46 PM

#6

Try this, put the peice in the microwave and heat the entire peice evenly. I just buy new plastic when i wreck, most peices are only $12 or so.

  • mulisha00

Posted April 11, 2004 - 02:50 PM

#7

where do you buy plastic at for $12 and tell them i need a set for two bikes.

back to the ? i tried the torch and it does work. all you have to do is make sure its not to hot. they will almost dissapear completely. i used it on both sides and i likes using the top side and it seems to work better. thanks :)

  • vetplus40

Posted April 11, 2004 - 03:46 PM

#8

A heat gun will do the trick and be less likely to melt the plastic.

  • mikev7

Posted April 11, 2004 - 03:56 PM

#9

More like $17 on up. Follow this link, it's the cheapest i know of http://www.dirt-deals.com/myProducts.cfm?CFID=4920804&CFTOKEN=85106309&CategoryID=506

  • yz_for_me

Posted April 11, 2004 - 06:47 PM

#10

I use the torch all the time. Just use short burst of heat to keep from melting the plastic too much. It works great and you can't tell where the stressed are was. I apply the the heat to the inside and outside of the plastic in the affected area. I figure I don't have to heat one side as much this way to get the heat to penetrate all the way through.

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  • OC768

Posted April 11, 2004 - 07:15 PM

#11

I've used a Wagner Paint Stripper (heat gun) from Wal-Mart, was about 22$ a few years ago.

I've used torches and (1800+ watt) hairdryers, but the heatgun/paint stripper seems to bring more consistent results and doesen't have the flame factor the torch does.

The trick to using any heat source to recure the plastic is think of it like spray painting sort of, in that you want to keep the heat source moving at all times in an even and consistent pattern over the workpiece.

I start with the outside first, gun on HI heat/fan and move over the white area and about 1" around it, keeping the gun about 8"-10" off the piece. You'll notice some of the feathering on the edges of the stress area start to go away and the plastic taking on a glossier look. With that occuring (and being careful to watch for any sign of deformity) focus the heat on the centerline(s) of the stress and in a matter of seconds the marks will go away.

I have repaired most of my plastics a few times and it can get tricky but its pretty easy to get good at and works well if you do it right. That 22$ heat gun has definetely paid for itself about 6-8 times over, and anyone that says neigh on the issue either isn't using a hot enough heat source or has a part that is beyond reasonable repair :)

  • YAMAKAZE

Posted April 12, 2004 - 05:58 AM

#12

What OC said.....Been using my wagner for years and it works everytime. Additionally once a year I use plastic renew and the bike looks fresh every season.

Bonzai :)

  • mikev7

Posted April 12, 2004 - 03:34 PM

#13

I got a right radiator shroud from my 426 that has stress marks im going to try it in the microwave and tell you the results. I think it's a better way then risking melting the plastic with a torch or heat gun. :)

  • mikev7

Posted April 12, 2004 - 03:45 PM

#14

I got a right radiator shroud from my 426 that has stress marks im going to try it in the microwave and tell you the results. I think it's a better way then risking melting the plastic with a torch or heat gun. :)

Call me stupid, but i thought of something :D when i was taking my cut broken bent shroud to the microwave. HOW IN HELL DO YOU GET A FENDER INTO THE MICROWAVE!!!! :D Answer; YOU CANT!!!! :D Also, it did'nt even heat the plastic up. Mocrowave safe dirtbike plastic you ask? Yes! So i say when it's no longer good, use it to heat hot pockets on! :D

  • mulisha00

Posted April 12, 2004 - 04:56 PM

#15

what in the world are you talking about?

has anyone done this to other brands of plastic with same results? :)

  • mikev7

Posted April 12, 2004 - 05:03 PM

#16

what in the world are you talking about?

has anyone done this to other brands of plastic with same results? :)

I tried to heat a peice of bent plastic (a right radiator shroud on my yz 426) in the microwave to see if you did'nt need a heat gun. Read above for results. :D

  • mulisha00

Posted April 12, 2004 - 05:06 PM

#17

use the torch or heat gun. it will not be perfect but looks better that nothing.

  • OC768

Posted April 12, 2004 - 05:29 PM

#18

Additionally once a year I use plastic renew and the bike looks fresh every season.



The other half of the equation...plastic renew I haven't used, but mop+glo is good for a quick sheen (that comes off shortly thereafter) also that novus plastic polish works well depending how much you've worn down the plastic.

I was going to ask about that microwave thing, most of my micro-ware is plastic and doesen't seem to mind being in there for extended periods of time without deformation :)

Glad to know Im not the only one @ camp Wagner, I feel that much wiser now for not going at the 100$ milwaukee heat gun @ HD when making my choice :D

  • rdhj

Posted May 23, 2008 - 07:47 AM

#19

I have some shrouds i'd like to try the heat gun on. I had sanded them down and mp and glowed them. I wonder if heating them up would mess with the mop and glo and cause any adverse affects. Anyone with experiance on this? Should I sand off the mop and glo first?

  • matt4x4

Posted May 23, 2008 - 09:13 AM

#20

Don't sand off the mop&glo, just apply a fresh coat then wash the part before it dries, the mop and glo will "melt" the old mop and glo.
Future floor wax works the same way and is essentailly the same as plastic renew for 1/10th the price - it's a polymer that will stay tough, is waterproof and will remelt itself through applying more overtop.
Thanks for the heatgun tip guys, this is great, I have a few stress marks myself that need attention.





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