motocrossing with Z-start and no perch adjuster


28 replies to this topic
  • icemachines

Posted April 07, 2004 - 03:31 PM

#21

The Chruch of rekluse has moved up North. :D
This clutch performs excellent, and the customer service from rekluse is top notch. :) I have the same rubbing problems as the others. A third gasket is on the way to stop this problem. Rekluse also offers a clutch cover which provides some extra room, and eliminates the extra gaskets. :D My order is in.
As for the operation of the clutch just hang on, Power into a corner, nail the brakes and hit the gas. It becomes pretty easy to forget about the clutch.
Technical riding is a breeze, you will be able to ride alot faster.

  • OC768

Posted April 07, 2004 - 05:43 PM

#22

Technical riding is a breeze, you will be able to ride alot faster.


here here :)

  • thelimey1

Posted April 07, 2004 - 07:12 PM

#23

schweet, seems too good to be true. id like to get one. are they complicated to adjust, and what about the flywheel weight, forget it??

  • thelimey1

Posted April 07, 2004 - 07:13 PM

#24

do you have engine braking???

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • icemachines

Posted April 07, 2004 - 09:07 PM

#25

It takes a few hours to install, just because you trying to figure it all out. After that you will be able to take it apart and reinstall in about 1/2 hour. Adjustments are pretty easy and the instructions lead you in the right direction. I wouldn't think you need a flywheel weight, and engine braking is all there. Previous posts on z-start indicate the pros&cons. This is what helped me make my decision.

  • renegade

Posted April 08, 2004 - 03:52 AM

#26

Don't forget that chicks DIG a guy with a z-start! :) :D

  • OC768

Posted April 08, 2004 - 05:35 AM

#27

schweet, seems too good to be true. id like to get one. are they complicated to adjust, and what about the flywheel weight, forget it??


as icemachines said, definetely search 'z-start' and you'll see for yourself :D but this thing is very easy to get setup initally, I was completely anal and it took me about 3 hours, I do not think it could possibly have taken any longer if I tried (I was taking some pics though, so that hampered efficiency). The adjustments all take place out of the case (once you have the inital setup ok).

Engine braking - can be there if you want it to, just a matter of setting up your idle/engagement speed to an acceptable level for what you want to do with it, it takes some tinkering but after its set - you'll never touch it again :)

Flywheel weight- You don't need one just for the z-start though I have a 5oz on my 450 and it definetly keeps things saner (both before the z-s and after). Bear in mind the z-s is a clutch only, and although traction is definetly enhanced with it - the flywheel still comes in handy if you are chopping rocks etc. and can put engine momentum to good use. If I rode mx I'd probably ditch the weight altogether.

  • fatmancantfly

Posted April 12, 2004 - 01:07 PM

#28

Please correct me if I'm wrong. The way the Rekluse works is that the throwout pushes out against the pressure plate with the use of the preload spring and the centrifical force of the bearings when spun, force the throwout back towards the center or left side of the engine. If your gaskets are too thin it should have a stalling problem, not engagement problem. This is what Sean at Rekluse explained to me today when I called about my fryed clutch.
What I notice about my setup is that the clutch actuator arm never moves when the bike is ridden. Sean said I should see 30 to 40 degrees of movement. It has never moved! Whatever the case. I now have a totally smoked set of clutches after a 2 hour H/S.
Did you guys with the smoked clutches notice if your actuator arm was moving while riding your bike? By the way. I was also told I was the only one he knew of that had a 450 that burnt up the clutches. He said to try a different type of oil. I use Maxima 15w50 full syn motorcycle specific oil. What was everyone else using when they smoked their clutches.
Someone do me a favor. If for some reason your clutch cover is off (guys with the burnt up clutch), push the throwout in to see if it's moving the actuator arm. I'm out of town working so I can't get to mine until Wednesday. This has really got me stumped. :)

  • renegade

Posted April 12, 2004 - 01:44 PM

#29

Please correct me if I'm wrong. The way the Rekluse works is that the throwout pushes out against the pressure plate with the use of the preload spring and the centrifical force of the bearings when spun, force the throwout back towards the center or left side of the engine. If your gaskets are too thin it should have a stalling problem, not engagement problem. This is what Sean at Rekluse explained to me today when I called about my fryed clutch.
What I notice about my setup is that the clutch actuator arm never moves when the bike is ridden. Sean said I should see 30 to 40 degrees of movement. It has never moved! Whatever the case. I now have a totally smoked set of clutches after a 2 hour H/S.



Here's my two cents. The "topmost" part of the clutch is the top plate, that steel disc that bolts on top of the unit with the tiny torx screws. Regardless of what rpm the engine is revolving at, regardless of whether the clutch is engaed or disengaged, that plate rotates, but does not change it's position axially in the stack of parts. The pressure plate moves relative to the top plate.
So I'm not following you when you state that too few or thin gaskets provide either a stalling or engagement problem. ??? If your gaskets are thin, you made have the rubbing problem, yes.
Here is a quote from one of the above posts;
Yes, because the throwout's travel was limited after the clutch warmed up. Due to heat expansion, the throwout 'bottomed' against the cover and reduced the effective clutch pressure. That situation could lead to excessive slippage, and a very toasty clutch pack.

If you're not seeing your actuator arm move, you better find the reason before you ride the bike again. Lay it down preferably in a way that you can somehow reach the actuator arm to move it with your fingers Open it up. Now before you dis-assemble anything, reach around and grab the arm, and try to rotate it so that it pushes the throwout towards you. Is there any free play, or is it snug againts the top plate? If there's free play, that would be explanation why you never see the arm move. However, since you toasted the clutch pack, the above quote is pertinent. For some reason, your throwout isn't moving enough [check it for range of movement] or some other installment issues are adding up like installed gap, etc. Now I'm starting to not make sense probably, my apologies, I've had the flu for a week now and my brain is fried.
Get your moneys worth out of your purchase; use the phone and get the guys at rekluse to help you straighten this out. They're allways busy and sometimes may not be at first willing to spend quality time with you diagnosing your situation, but they tend to usually come through for you.





Related Content

 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.