4 replies to this topic
  • Glen_T

Posted April 29, 2002 - 05:03 AM


Well, after whining about old blue for five months, I finally got it back together with a new right side crank. The bolt that holds the cb gear on the crank came loose and wreaked some havoc on the right side case and crank. I updated my 00 to an 01 splined crank and cb-gear, and I don't think it's ever run quieter. So, if you've ever wondered if updating your 00 crank to an 01 would be a problem, it isn't. It works great. Now maybe I can quit wondering what is next to break. GLEN :D :D :D :) :D

  • bbeakley

Posted April 29, 2002 - 05:22 AM



Good to hear you're back in business. For those of us with 2000 year models that wish to upgrade to the splined CB gear, do you have a brief overview and parts summary you could post?

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  • Glen_T

Posted April 29, 2002 - 06:27 AM


Yep, I'll check part numbers and post them, but aside from seals and gaskets, it is really just the right crank and new gear.


  • Glen_T

Posted April 29, 2002 - 04:01 PM


Okay, Here is the parts list. I've also listed the wholesale price on some of the larger items. I was able to talk my dealer into taking 20% off.

Crank 2 (1) 5JG-11422-10-00 171.29
Gear Drive (1) 5JG-11536-00-00 72.60
Oil Seal (1) 93101-14164-00 ?
O-Ring (5) 93210-10197-00 ?
Washer Lock (2) 90215-21001-00 2.77ea
Washer Lock (1) 90215-20231-00 1.39
Washer Lock (1) 90215-14204-00 2.40
Head Gasket 5JG-11181-00-00 36.14
Base Gasket 5BE-11351-00-00 5.41
Rings ?
Piston ?
Yama-Bond ACC-YAMAB-ON-D4 7.65

Here's the scoop, it's really not that bad if you are patient. Remove the right side cover, clutch, basket, cb-gear from crank, and cb-driven-gear from the counter balancer. Remove the head, cylinder and piston. Remove engine from the frame. On the left (ignition) side of the cases, remove all the allen bolts holdin the cases together. (Don't forget the shifter, front sprocket, oil-line, and gear sensor and watch out for a small spring and pin behind the gear sensor.) Once you get all the allen bolts out, (there is one hiding behind the counter balancer toward the front of the case) use a rubber mallet to gently tap on the flywheel and spindle for the front sprocket. My cases came apart very easily. There is an oil galley O-ring and connector in the middle of the whole thing between the cases. Don't forget it like I did and have to split the cases twice. Take the left (ignition) side of the case to your local friendly Yamaha shop. Pay the man to put on the new crank part while you spend time cleaning everything up to go back to gether. Everything went together quite easily and nothing went SPROING!!! The manual is helpful, but if you pay close attention, I think it can be done by anyone. You might want to replace more than I've listed here, but you could get away with less. Most of my gaskets and seals were just fine. I took the oportunity to replace the rings on my relatively new Wiesco piston. This is the extreme in the way of a fix. I was forced to do this due to the bolt that holds the cb-gear to the crank coming loose and destroying my side case and marking my crank. I now recommend using some thread lock on all the bolts inside. Don't assume that the lock washer is enough. I did and it stung me. But, hey after griping about the thing for five months I now have a renewed love of the machine. Now that I don't have to listen for the key going bad! I hope nobody has the problem I did, but if you do, I hope this helps.

  • Glen_T

Posted May 01, 2002 - 12:24 PM


Ooops I meant retail price. I got 20% off Yamaha's list.

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