Will oil change affect clutch?



12 replies to this topic
  • Tim_Heslip

Posted May 16, 2001 - 08:54 PM

#1

At the beginging of this riding year I changed oil and cleaned the oil filter. The last change I used Golden Spectro synthetic and this time I used Honda's (Sorry, got talked into it) synthetic oil. I noticed my clutch is not engaging until is is almost all the way out. I have adjusted the cables and I still don't have much room. I did not notice this much of a problem at the end of last year so I was wondering if the oil change could have made things worse. Maybe after 3 years it is time to put a new clutch in. I ride more motocross than anything else. I have not had time to pull some plates and measure them. This whole job, wife, and two kids is putting a real damper on my moto rebel lifestyle! Honey, if you read this I am just kidding.(think she bought it?) Anyway, thanks to anyone who may have an insight.

Tim

  • Hick

Posted May 16, 2001 - 09:13 PM

#2

I don’t see how the oil could have anything to do with what you are experiencing. It could just be that your plates are getting too thin, three years is a long time on a clutch, even in a thumper.

Usually you will notice some slippage when they wear out, you may have some grooves worn in your basket and/or hub, perhaps the plates are sticking “out” of the grooves and not disengaging when they should.

If you replace the clutch check for grooves, and replace the springs as well. Hope this helps.

  • PMAUST

Posted May 16, 2001 - 09:21 PM

#3

Tim, by no means am I an expert on this stuff. But, one thing i've learned is that there is a lot of hype out there about a lot of things. I have had my WR400 now for a year so, not as long as you. I change oil alot. Maybe too much. I change after every other ride. If conditions are really dusty after just one ride. My clutch(knock on wood) is holding up just fine along with everything else in the engine. Some people may say i'm stupid but I just use Yamalube. Other oils of a similar kind will do just fine and may be cheaper to buy. If you ride motocross you may be slipping your clutch alot. It may just be that you need to replace some plates. The point i'm trying to make is that if you are using a good oil and changing it regularly your clutch just may need some maintenance. I would check it out. If it looks fine then suspect the oil. Good Luck!

  • Ynahg

Posted May 16, 2001 - 11:19 PM

#4

Tim,

I first tried full-synth (5W40) too, and i notice the same feeling about the clutch ; not slipping at all, but very short and violent.
The reason of this is the reduced viscosity of the base oils used to make synth oils. Now i swiched to a semi synthetic ester based 15W40. And this feels a lot more progressive.
Watch out for expensive 'Motorcycle Oils', in fact these oils are often fomulations used in automotive oils a few years ago, altough they are claming these oils have a limited amount of friction modifying additives to avoid the clutch to slip. BULLSHIT
Try a good quality automotive 10W40 oil, this will work fine.
DON'T BELIEVE THE HYPE.
(If anybody had a slipping clutch because of using an automotive oil, i would be glad to hear his story)
:)
¤Yn@hg¤



------------------
'99 WR400 F, YZ exhaust, throttle stop trimmed, WR timing, airbox cover removed

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted May 17, 2001 - 01:43 AM

#5

Do you research, I sent castrol an e-mail about their automotive oils asking about using them in bikes. Here's the response:


With the change in passenger car oils to API SJ came an increase in friction
modifiers and a
decrease in zinc and phosphorus, addressing concerns with fuel economy and
catalytic
converter/pollution issues. For motorcycles, the additional friction modifiers
can affect wet
clutch performance, and motorcycle engines appreciate a higher level of the
anti-wear
ingredients of zinc and phosphorus.

  • Gary_Martin

Posted May 24, 2001 - 07:39 PM

#6

I took someones advice after they said to just use a good quality auto oil. After changing the oil on my wifes XR250 from a semi synthetic MC oil to a semi synthetic automotive oil with friction modifiers, the clutch began slipping straight away on the next ride. I changed oil back to MC oil but it was too late, the clutch material was contaminated and still slipped.

It was a bummer, cause the clutch was not very old (few months), and having to replce the friction plates to fix the problem didnt go down too well.

I know we're talking different calibres of machine - but the technology is the same.

PS. the automotive oil work perfectly well as bar oil on the chainsaw!!

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • JBM

Posted May 25, 2001 - 05:20 AM

#7

If the old clutch plates have any glazing from the petroleum based oil, the switch to synthetic could have some effect.

  • Team_Oatmeal_Pie

Posted June 03, 2001 - 07:51 PM

#8

I have always been told never to use synthetic oils in bikes, because of the clutch slippage. Can any one back me up!

  • MN_Kevin

Posted June 04, 2001 - 12:37 AM

#9

Pie Man,
You are opening up a can of worms on this one! You will start up the Mobil 1 discussion again! :)

I use Mobil 1 15w-50 with ZERO problems.

------------------
'99 WZ/YR (you choose!) with ALL YZ mods, de-octopused, DSP Doug Henry airbox w/ velocity stack, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, forked over by Pro-Action (and then fixed by me), OEM YZ tank, IMS YZ seat, carb mods by Jim Dean, Andy in OZ, & Sir "Taffy" from Jolly Old England, AMA, NESC.

[This message has been edited by NH Kevin (edited 06-04-2001).]

  • Ward

Posted June 04, 2001 - 12:41 AM

#10

I also use Mobil 1 15w-50 with ZERO problems.

  • JOSHUAZ2

Posted June 04, 2001 - 06:33 AM

#11

mobil 1 15-50 zero problems multiple bikes.

  • Tim_Heslip

Posted June 04, 2001 - 05:13 PM

#12

I guess it doesn't matter much anymore. My clutch got smoked in the mud of the coldest wettest spring I can remember in a long time. The track was muddy that day my friends. Ruts deep as the day is long. After 2 laps and much arm pump I felt like I had just finished 30min + 1. Like fighting a bull with your wrists strapped to the horns. My good friend had just killed his the newly rebuilt clutch on his CR250 and I felt sorry for him. Well the cable broke and we don't know how much damage the plates have. But I digress. I let him take the Blue Beast for a spin explaining that the clutch had been a little on the soft side of late. With a tear in my eye, I waved goodby and wished a safe journey, for the bike at least. When my buddy came back riding on the back of another bike my heart sunk. The poor thing gave all it had and ended up stuck at the bottom of a Michigan clay hill on a cold overcast Sunday.

So the good news is I blamed my friend, dodged any further questions from the wife and have a date with a new clutch kit, a clean garage, and maybe a Canandian Blue (necter of the gods) to keep me company.

BTW: Which aftermarket clutch kit should I buy?

Thanks for putting up with the rambling. As a poet, I make a heck of a mechanic. And thats not saying much, I am no mechanic.

Tim

  • markerf

Posted June 04, 2001 - 06:57 PM

#13

Originally posted by Tim Heslip:
At the beginging of this riding year I changed oil and cleaned the oil filter. The last change I used Golden Spectro synthetic and this time I used Honda's (Sorry, got talked into it) synthetic oil. I noticed my clutch is not engaging until is is almost all the way out. I have adjusted the cables and I still don't have much room. I did not notice this much of a problem at the end of last year so I was wondering if the oil change could have made things worse. Maybe after 3 years it is time to put a new clutch in. I ride more motocross than anything else. I have not had time to pull some plates and measure them. This whole job, wife, and two kids is putting a real damper on my moto rebel lifestyle! Honey, if you read this I am just kidding.(think she bought it?) Anyway, thanks to anyone who may have an insight.

Tim

I agree with "The Hick" three years is a long time, consider yourself lucky. You'll pay $180 for OEM or 1/2 that for a White Brothers replacement.




 
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