Shops floors?



13 replies to this topic
  • DaveJ

Posted April 20, 2002 - 09:16 PM

#1

Well, this is a little off, but what a better group to ask.

I'm moving into a bigger shop (er...garage) and need to coat (paint, stain...whatever) a perfectly smoooth concrete floor.

It currently has no cracks, no oil stains, but is a little ugly for my tastes. So I think it just needs a good solid color (such as gray).

For the garage gods out there, I'm wondering if the floor needs to be etched before proceeding, and what are some of the most effective tips in assuring a long lasting floor.

I'm also a little concerned about anti-slip as well.

Any thoughts would most appreciated.

Thanks!!

DaveJ

  • Boit

Posted April 20, 2002 - 09:44 PM

#2

Good topic. I'm the third owner of this house and the garage floor has a quality blue/gray coating that needs to be redone now. It's 21 years old. My plan is to run down to Home Depot and ask the associates in the paint department. Might ask more than one associate and see if the answer is consistent.

  • MXOldtimer

Posted April 20, 2002 - 11:50 AM

#3

Rodda Paint sells a Polyurethane floor finish. You can get it in colors, on a smooth floor it will be slick but you could mix some sand in it. Just pressure wash the floor, vaccum and roll on.

  • motoman393

Posted April 20, 2002 - 01:01 PM

#4

DaveJ,

I painted my garage floor about 1yr ago with Behr paint from Home Depot. I decided not to mix sand in with the paint (since you sacrifice durability for anti-slip)

The Behr paint doesnt flake or dissolve when harsh clemicals are used (like carb cleaner, oil, etc). Oil has sat on my floor for about a 1-2 weeks, and when it is time for clean up I just spray simple green on the floor and mop/mipe it up (it takes less than 5 mins, and looks brand new) I expected the paint to be much more slippery than it is. It really isnt bad, and I only have to be careful when the dew/humidity settles on the floor (in the early morning)

Yes, you do need to etch and degrease the surface (if it is a brand new floor and grease/oil hasnt been on it, then just etch it) First, etch the surface real good for about 30 mins. You will actually feel/see the pores of the concrete open up and it gets rougher in texture. Make sure you wash the garage throughly after you are through etching. Now apply the cleaner/degreaser and rinse thoroughly. Then let it dry and paint your floor. Expect to spend about 6 hrs doing this (since you have to wait for the floor to dry) it isnt hard and it well worth it!

I have a 2 1/2 car garage and 2 cans of paint did 2 thick coats. I will go take some pics and post them here in a few minutes! Good Luck,

Garrett

  • motoman393

Posted April 20, 2002 - 01:41 PM

#5

OK here are some pics.... http://mx393.tripod.com/floor.html Later,

Garrett

  • Flamed1

Posted April 21, 2002 - 04:06 AM

#6

DaveJ,
I used a 2 part product for industrial floors. I got mine thru a distributer at work since I am work in heavy Construction, but I have seen similar products in Rod and Custom Magazine. I did etch the surface with an acid made for the task like Motoman393. I solved the slip issue by using a lawn seed spreader and "broadcast" the sand over the wet surface after the first coat. After it dried, I swept the loose sand and then applied a second coat which took away the abrasive quality of the sand and locked in the individual grains of sand. The finished product is awesome looking and no slip issues when wet :) . My only complaint so far is that when you drop a tool or something with some weight to it, the surface may get a small crack or chip since it is brittle (remember this is 2 part, which is a product and an activator) I have rubber mats next to my bench so it is not a problem. But when my motorcycle or car is in the middle of the garage, I have encountered chips in the surface. Since the color is an industrial grey they are not easy to see, but when I try to sweep the floor I notice them.
Good luck, :D
Brian

  • John_Lorenz

Posted April 21, 2002 - 04:19 AM

#7

In the October Issue 2000 of Sport Compact Car

there is a detailed article in setting up your shop / garage floor.

I will copy the article and post it on Monday, I have no scanner at home. It is detailed al the way to cost.

Bottom line for a 650sq ft shop it ran 1k and took 10 hrs to prep.

Let me know if you interested

DaveJ I know your in Cambell, I work in Cambell if you like I can drop or you can pick up the RAG from me for the article

Your Call Man :)

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • grashoper250

Posted April 21, 2002 - 05:25 AM

#8

I did the same thing as motoman393. Behr products work good and are relatively cheap. You will need to etch the floor. I used muriatic acid (Home Depot) to do mine. It's cheaper than the Behr brand and etched alot better. I didn't see anyone mention this, but I also primed the floor with Behr concrete floor primer. The stuff is clear and really tacky. When you actually get to applying the epoxy, use several thin coats instead of applying thick. Give yourself about 40 minutes between coats, you can walk on it then carefully to apply additional coats. Also put on a clear coat. IT'S ALL VERY TIMECONSUMING. Be patient and you'll be rewarded with no chipping or flacking. Don't put anything heavy on the floor for a week.

  • MotoGreg

Posted April 21, 2002 - 06:57 AM

#9

I just did a Yahoo! search for "garage floor coatings" and several options came up.

We just had our shop floor at work done (about 15 car service bays long) and it was $40,000!!!! :) I'm not overly impressed with it either. Last weekend we were looking at some model homes and one had the garage floor coated with a glossy speckled finish that was really nice. It was three colors, light grey, very dark grey, and white, all little speckles.

  • Shawn_Mc

Posted April 22, 2002 - 12:45 PM

#10

My brother in law just bought some million dollar home in huntington beach and garage there is too bitchen for words. Tandem 4 car. The floor is done with this rubbery like coating that looks like what Motogreg described. Thing is. the floor is like really hard rubber. You could drop anything short of an iron big block chevy head and have zero damage to the floor it seems. Super trick stuff. The previous owner did it for him, but Im almost afraid to ask what it cost.

  • John_Lorenz

Posted April 25, 2002 - 03:40 AM

#11

Sorry it tok me so long been buzy at work:

Anyway here is the first page of the Extreme Garage 101 if anyone cares. Also the is a link to the 6 mb files for the whole article
Posted Image
Link
Extreme Garage 101 Zip File "You Will need Winzip or another Unzip util"

[ April 25, 2002: Message edited by: EgoAhole ]

  • Scott_in_KC

Posted April 26, 2002 - 02:18 AM

#12

Ego, thanks for the time in getting that online! Great resourse, I've got that stored for my next project.

I've seen a few black & white checkered floors in shop pics. I'm assuming those are the cheap stick down tiles?? Perhaps Linoleum? I imagine it wouldn't take much brake cleaner to melt that though.

  • DaveJ

Posted April 27, 2002 - 07:20 AM

#13

Thanks for all the great input guys.

I'm in the middle of the project at the moment. I'll try and post some pic when things conclude.

Again, thanks a bunch!!

DaveJ

  • MikeOK

Posted April 27, 2002 - 09:26 PM

#14

I used the cement floor paint they sell at Wal-Mart. I think it's an epoxy paint, will look later. It's been there for about a year now and still very good. I painted it over a newly poured cement slab. You can get whatever color blend you want too, mine is blue...





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