RMZ Self Diagnosis codes

[JohnnyB24]

I'm having trouble with my 2011 RMZ250.

 

Back story: I was riding at a track in Sep and the bike was pulling hard like usual and then it started to sputter out and then die. Checked fuel, air filter, spark plug, etc then it started again so I tried to ride it but it kept sputtering out and had no power.  

 

I thought it was electrical but I figured it was also time for a top end rebuild. I already had a Cylinder Works 270 kit on hand and that is what I was putting on it. I disassembled the top end and everything looked ok except for the intake seats had some cracks so the head was sent to Fast Heads and they put in new seats, valves, springs, etc. Once back together I could never get it running and ended up taking it to a dealer and they put in a new TPS sensor. I took it to a race that weekend. The bike ran but was pretty pathetic feeling compared to other 270 bikes that I've ridden. I tried different map settings on the Vortex and they all sucked. I tried subtracting and adding fuel and adding fuel seemed to help a little but it still didn't pull as hard as it did even stock. subtracting fuel just made it worse which is counter to the other 270 bikes I've worked on. I tried using the stock ECU with the different couplers with the same results. The bike is ridable but really sucks. I am tempted to try to have the stocker re flashed for the mods i've done I wanted to try the electrical codes first.

 

I downloaded a factory service manual today and started reading about how to test the electrical components and I am about to order the FI test light indicator and battery terminal connector to be able to run the tests as well as check my TPS. Will a Vortex ignition store and flash a diagnostic code or do I need to reinstall the stock ECM? The manual says that once the harness is disconnected from the ECM the codes are erased but I'm assuming if I reconnect the stock ECM and ride it around for a little while it will store the code?

Any input from you guys that have had similar experiences or have used the diagnostic FI light set up are appreciated. 

 

Another post I found the OP described the same sort of problem and it ended up being the coil/spark plug cap was cracked. I inspected mine but can't see anything obvious. I'm assuming the diagnostic codes would display something wrong with the coil maybe? I wanted to check everything first before just throwing money at it replacing suspected parts.

Edited January 1, 2017 by JohnnyB24

[JohnnyB24]

Update: I tested the TPS voltage and I'm getting .608 volts. The manual spec listed is "Approximately .6 volts". I'm assuming the setting on the TPS is good?

 

I tested the fuel pump volume while I had the tank off and I'm getting approximately 200 ml / 10 seconds. The manual states that 89ml and greater is acceptable. 

 

Coil tests:

    Primary resistance test = 00.0 to 00.1 ohms fluctuating

    secondary test = 5.53 k ohms

    Manual Spec: primary .01 to .11 ohms @ 68 deg F

                           secondary 4.5 to 6.9 k ohms @ 68 deg F

   

    Primary peak voltage: I don't have the peak volt adapter that that the manual states is needed to record the voltage. I set up my multi meter to try to see if I could still measure the voltage. I am assuming that the voltage pulse is too quick for my meter to read because I couldn't get any readings on any of the standard DC voltage settings. I could only get a slight reading from mili volts setting (300mV DC) and that was maxed at 6.0 to 6.4. I could see a very strong looking spark at the plug which looked normal to me.

 

Your thoughts?

 

I'm waiting on the FI test light to arrive but that won't be until sometime after the 10th as it was on back order. 

 

 

[Kurt-Casey Potter]

Did you ever figure out how to do it?