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2014 WR450F Wiring / Lighting help needed


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11 replies to this topic
  • CharlyTT

    TT Newbie

8 posts
Location: Trinidad & Tobago

Posted October 11, 2016 - 05:08 PM


Hi all,

 

I'm unhappy with my lighting and electrical situation.

 

Currently I have on my left hand side the tusk multi button. Giving me control over indicators and horn. The light button of it is not connected the three wires of it (black, blue, white simply lead into nothing.

Also on left side is a separate kill switch.

 

Since it isn't connected the 3 way light button on the tusk switch doesn't do anything. As of now when I press the ignition button the lower bulb of my headlight turns on the main bulb comes on as soon as i fire up the engine (and stays on even after killing the engine via button)

 

On right side I have a separate starter button and an On/Off button turning on backlight and enabling indicators.

 

 

 

There's 3 things I want to do in terms of electrics soon:

1. I have a Trail Tech Vapor on it's way - shouldn't be different in wiring from OEM !?!

 

2. I want to get rid of current buttons to have only one unit on each side.

 

3. I want to significantly upgrade the  headlight. Right now I am leaning towards throwing too much money at the bike and buying a Cyclops Rally light with the LED bulb.

 

Now for questions:

 

Does anybody see issues with replacing the left side buttons with a unit like this: 

kamps_technologies_universalschalter1_13

 

And the right side with one of these:

s-l1600.jpg

 

 

 

2. Does anybody see an inherent flaw with the Cyclops light or have a better option for me?

3. What to change in current wiring to enable dimming on old or new switch.

 

4. What little extra parts will I probably need to fit buttons and new light? Don't live in the States and shipping stuff here is expensive so I would like to make sure I have everything I need.

 

Thanks,

Charly

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20161009_131817.jpg
  • IMG_20161009_131859.jpg


  • dirznut

    TT Bronze Member

237 posts
Location: Florida

Posted October 11, 2016 - 08:25 PM


I also have the tusk kit. I did away with the stock killswitch with a keyed ignition which cuts the fuel pump. I use that or the gray on/off switch to turn off the bike. You can actually wire the stock headlight to the tusk switch and get full control of it (lowbeam, highbeam, or off). I have mine that way with the help of the forum. You only need the generic bulb socket with three wire leads, you can find it at most autoparts stores. The stock headlight is actually one of the best headlights I've used and it blows the acerbis cyclops out of the water (those units are pretty cheap and the pencil bulbs put little light out).

 

Tusk/headlight wiring:

http://www.thumperta...r450-headlight/

 

IMG_4904.JPG

 

The trailtech will install without messing with the stock wires, just tap power from the battery. Be warned, the vapor didn't work well with my bike as I kept getting interference with my rpms no matter what I did, just opted for the simpler trailtech unit after that. The radiator fin temp pickup is inaccurate as well, hope you got the coolant probe. 

 


Edited by dirznut, October 11, 2016 - 08:28 PM.


  • DJB317

    TT Newbie

3 posts

Posted October 11, 2016 - 11:33 PM


Those aftermarket switch blocks look very similar to the standard fitout we get on our Aus delivered WR's.

  • CharlyTT

    TT Newbie

8 posts
Location: Trinidad & Tobago

Posted October 12, 2016 - 02:13 AM


I also have the tusk kit. I did away with the stock killswitch with a keyed ignition which cuts the fuel pump. I use that or the gray on/off switch to turn off the bike. You can actually wire the stock headlight to the tusk switch and get full control of it (lowbeam, highbeam, or off). I have mine that way with the help of the forum. You only need the generic bulb socket with three wire leads, you can find it at most autoparts stores. The stock headlight is actually one of the best headlights I've used and it blows the acerbis cyclops out of the water (those units are pretty cheap and the pencil bulbs put little light out).

 

Tusk/headlight wiring:

http://www.thumperta...r450-headlight/

 

attachicon.gifIMG_4904.JPG

 

The trailtech will install without messing with the stock wires, just tap power from the battery. Be warned, the vapor didn't work well with my bike as I kept getting interference with my rpms no matter what I did, just opted for the simpler trailtech unit after that. The radiator fin temp pickup is inaccurate as well, hope you got the coolant probe. 

Thanks, found a dealer that'll ship the little socket to me for a reasonable price. Will give it a try. 

 

Headlight is decent. But around my parts it gets dark pretty soon everyday and most drivers don't look out that much for bikers, so I really wanna have some higher visibility as well as seeing more myself.

Little mixup on the light, I didn't mean the Acerbis Cyclops but the Cyclops Motorsports Rally headlight:

rally-light.jpg

I think that should easily be able to increase my light output but is also pretty expensive.

 

Could you send me a pic of the keyed ignition? Possibly even a parts number?

 

Hope the vapor will work as it's already on it's way.


Those aftermarket switch blocks look very similar to the standard fitout we get on our Aus delivered WR's.

Which ones you mean - the ones already on the bike or the new ones i posted?



  • dirznut

    TT Bronze Member

237 posts
Location: Florida

Posted October 12, 2016 - 06:17 AM


Ah that cyclops light would do much better than the one I was talking about haha.

This is what I used- http://sicassracing....r450_key_switch

Just a little piece of mind when I park the bike somewhere brief.

  • DJB317

    TT Newbie

3 posts

Posted October 12, 2016 - 09:50 AM


Which ones you mean - the ones already on the bike or the new ones i posted?

The new ones you posted. I'll get a picture for you

LH:
High/low beam, indicators and horn
IMG_8092.jpg

RH:
Kill switch and start button
IMG_8093.jpg

View of both
IMG_8094.jpg

Pre 2016 also have either a key or ignition button near the display. 2016+ models have a built in relay which is energized when the starter button is pressed and times out after about 30 seconds or so once the kill switch is pressed

Edited by DJB317, October 12, 2016 - 01:58 PM.


  • CharlyTT

    TT Newbie

8 posts
Location: Trinidad & Tobago

Posted October 13, 2016 - 06:07 PM


The new ones you posted. I'll get a picture for you

LH:
High/low beam, indicators and horn
IMG_8092.jpg

RH:
Kill switch and start button
IMG_8093.jpg

View of both
IMG_8094.jpg

Pre 2016 also have either a key or ignition button near the display. 2016+ models have a built in relay which is energized when the starter button is pressed and times out after about 30 seconds or so once the kill switch is pressed

Looks good. Do you have to manually enable function of indicators and rear light or do they come on at ignition?

  • DJB317

    TT Newbie

3 posts

Posted October 14, 2016 - 11:13 AM


Looks good. Do you have to manually enable function of indicators and rear light or do they come on at ignition?

Rear tail light and low beam head light automatically come on once the bike is started and the indicators etc all have power supplied so all you have to do flick the L or R indicator switch and away they go. It's a shame they didn't kit them out this way for the USA delivered bikes :(

  • lotecredneck

    TT Newbie

17 posts
Location: Texas

Posted October 16, 2016 - 04:29 PM


I put one of the Tusk kits on my DRZ and I am also putting one on my '05 WR450F. On my DRZ I used the Tusk headlight switch and took the "Low Beam" wire from the headlight connector to run power to the switch via the black wire from the switch. I left the OEM black wire connected to the headlight connector and the used the white and yellow wire from the switch to the high and low connector on the headlight plug. This gave me both beams and the ability to turn it off.

 

I then took the two red wires that is supposed to go to the cheesy on/off switch they provided and plugged them together which would make the system "hot". I then took the power leads at the battery and connected them to the original taillight wires under the seat. This makes the system "hot" when the key is turned on and works great....

 

Now for the WR.... I am going to do the same thing, but the system won't become hot until the bike is running... No big deal as I don't need turn signals or a horn, etc with the bike not running. The stock headlight connector only has two of the three slots with a wire in it, so I will either get a plug or get a package of female spade connectors with a right angle and simply put one in the open slot. The back of the connector has a flap that will open to allow the insertion of the connector. The back of the connector has a blue and a yellow wire going to the same terminal. Those are the wires you cut and attach to the black wire from the headlight switch that supplies voltage to the switch. The yellow wire is the headlight and the blue is where Yamaha supplies 12v to the tail light! They tied them together there rather than having a connector elsewhere. You leave the ground wire Yamaha used on the three connector plug and use bullet connectors for the high/low wires so you can still easily remove the headlight and simply unplug it. Again I will connect the two red wires together up front and connect the power leads to the factory tail light connector. I put an MX fender on with the Tusk taillight so I cut the factory wire and spliced the power leads to it so I have a factory connection to the taillight connection to power the system.

 

I will finish mine up Monday and test it, but I see no reason it won't work fine. I can take some pictures if needed after I test it if needed.

 

~Tony


Edited by lotecredneck, October 16, 2016 - 05:01 PM.


  • 24v

    TT Member

56 posts
Location: California

Posted October 18, 2016 - 04:43 AM


 

2. Does anybody see an inherent flaw with the Cyclops light or have a better option for me?

Not sure if it is better as I have no experience with the Cyclops, but this light claims more lumens and costs less.  If you tell them you are from this forum they will also give you a discount when ordering.

https://www.bajadesi...f-2012-2015.asp


Edited by 24v, October 18, 2016 - 04:43 AM.


  • lotecredneck

    TT Newbie

17 posts
Location: Texas

Posted October 19, 2016 - 02:39 PM


As a follow up... I finished the install and connecting to the tail light wires works perfectly! The Dual Sport kit fires up when the bike starts and stops when the engine does. No having to remember to turn on a separate switch to make sure your lights will function.

 

~Tony



  • CharlyTT

    TT Newbie

8 posts
Location: Trinidad & Tobago

Posted October 19, 2016 - 03:41 PM


Thanks for the responses, a lot of input. Waiting on some parts to arrive right now and i'm out of the country. so just precautionery wanted to say thanks for the detailed responses, but gonna take me a few days to respond properly.

 

 

As a follow up... I finished the install and connecting to the tail light wires works perfectly! The Dual Sport kit fires up when the bike starts and stops when the engine does. No having to remember to turn on a separate switch to make sure your lights will function.

 

~Tony

Hey,

 

sounds like i would wanna do. don't mind the system being hot whenever i turn on.






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