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2006 WR450 voltage regulator HELP!


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8 replies to this topic
  • Beboutd

    TT Newbie

10 posts
Location: Oklahoma

Posted September 28, 2016 - 06:50 PM


Hey Guys, I have a problem. I have been popping headlights. Checked voltage at the plug, goes up to 30V upon reving the engine. So regulator no question right? Heres my delemia. Did some shopping around. I found a Trail Tech regulator (7004-0020) that shows correct for my year. 50 ish dollars. Orderd, got it today. I take my old one off and neither of the two plugs match. The larger plug on my old one has 3 posts in a triangular pattern, the new one has 4 posts. Here are some pics. I noticed that it says on the box DC conversion required. Help please! Thanks guys.

  • Beboutd

    TT Newbie

10 posts
Location: Oklahoma

Posted September 28, 2016 - 06:54 PM


Here are some pictures.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20160928_213927.jpg
  • 20160928_213958.jpg
  • 20160928_214019.jpg
  • 1475117620763-1998256386.jpg


  • Just_a_trail_rider

    Get Help Now

6,822 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted September 29, 2016 - 01:11 PM


Hmmm....   are you putting a 12vdc lamp into an AC socket?  Do you fully understand the difference between AC and DC?   

 

On a stock 2006 wr450, the lights are AC.   Your bike is putting out AC and you can tell because it increases more when you rev it.    If you put a DC lamp in there, it will blow. 

 

The trail tech voltage regulator is DC, which means that you also need to upgrade to the trail tech stator to make your bike work with that.  Then when you do, you will need to change all your bulbs to be DC if you haven't already.  

 

If you stick with the trail tech voltage regulator and decide to do a full DC conversion  (which isn't a bad idea), then you need to order the stator.  On top of it, you will then need new headlight and tail lights that are 12v DC.    When I did this on my 05 wr450 years ago, I put in an HID headlight  (10x more light) and switched to a LED tail light.

 

But this is the more expensive route although there are benefits.

 

Otherwise, go back to stock and make sure that you are installing the correct AC headlight bulb instead of a DC bulb.   

 

Am I making sense?


Edited by Just_a_trail_rider, September 29, 2016 - 01:12 PM.


  • still2smokin
3,233 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted September 29, 2016 - 01:38 PM


Also beware when switching to the DC system you will need to add a switch for the head light and tail light as

they will be wired directly to the battery . Very easy to do just be careful to always double check to make sure its off ,

I have already killed one battery when the switch got bumped to the on position and left there for a week . I blame the cat . 

 

As far as the bulbs they still work fine after doing the ac to dc swap .  I am still running the stock replacement bulbs

since I did the swap to DC 3 years ago .



  • DeepPurplishBlue

    TT Bronze Member

380 posts
Location: Texas

Posted September 29, 2016 - 01:41 PM


Hmmm....   are you putting a 12vdc lamp into an AC socket?  Do you fully understand the difference between AC and DC?   

 

On a stock 2006 wr450, the lights are AC.   Your bike is putting out AC and you can tell because it increases more when you rev it.    If you put a DC lamp in there, it will blow. 

 

The trail tech voltage regulator is DC, which means that you also need to upgrade to the trail tech stator to make your bike work with that.  Then when you do, you will need to change all your bulbs to be DC if you haven't already.  

 

If you stick with the trail tech voltage regulator and decide to do a full DC conversion  (which isn't a bad idea), then you need to order the stator.  On top of it, you will then need new headlight and tail lights that are 12v DC.    When I did this on my 05 wr450 years ago, I put in an HID headlight  (10x more light) and switched to a LED tail light.

 

But this is the more expensive route although there are benefits.

 

Otherwise, go back to stock and make sure that you are installing the correct AC headlight bulb instead of a DC bulb.   

 

Am I making sense?

 

Actually, no, not much...   

 

The only thing you got right is the regulator he purchased will only work with a modified stator such as the

Trailtech unit.   It will NOT work with the split system found on a stock WR450.   His only option in this

situation short of changing the stator is to return the regulator and get a OEM Yamaha unit.

 

However, this is not because the stock system is AC.  It is because it is a split system with separate lighting

and charging coils.  The Trailtech regulator is designed to operate with a single coil.   

 

AC & DC light bulbs?   Utter nonsense.     The bulb Yamaha puts in these bikes, a H4 halogen, is the same

bulb you will find in any H4 vehicle, AC or DC.   Doesn't matter at all.   HID or LED is a different story.  HID

definitely will not work on AC, but many LED bulbs are already designed to rectify the power so AC or DC

doesn't matter for those.   I have LED bulbs in some of my unmodified WRs and they work fine.

 

Also, the AC power is most definitely is not why the bulb dims at idle.   That is because at idle the stator cannot

put out enough current to drive the bulb at full brightness.

 

No offense, but you seem to be the one who does not understand the difference between AC and DC...



  • DeepPurplishBlue

    TT Bronze Member

380 posts
Location: Texas

Posted September 29, 2016 - 01:48 PM


Also beware when switching to the DC system you will need to add a switch for the head light and tail light as

they will be wired directly to the battery . Very easy to do just be careful to always double check to make sure its off ,

I have already killed one battery when the switch got bumped to the on position and left there for a week . I blame the cat . 

 

As far as the bulbs they still work fine after doing the ac to dc swap .  I am still running the stock replacement bulbs

since I did the swap to DC 3 years ago .

 

 

 

I am not sure about other conversions, but with the Trailtech conversions I have done the wiring adapters

that Trailtech includes re-routes the power from the battery and drives the lights through the stock wiring

harness.    The WR power on/off button acts as a "master" switch so as long as you remember to turn

that one off, your lights will go off also.

 

Of course, it is still nice to have a proper headlight switch, and if you add one you can even wire up the

High/Low beams that the stock setup lacks.



  • still2smokin
3,233 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted September 29, 2016 - 01:55 PM


Oh cool , I used the the Rickey Stator set up .   I replaced the Stator as my stock one went bad ( at least that's what I thought  :banghead: )

It came with a new rectifier that plugged straight in but I did have rework/ run the wiring for the lights .



  • Beboutd

    TT Newbie

10 posts
Location: Oklahoma

Posted October 08, 2016 - 06:54 PM


Ok guys, I just returned the original regulator, and ordered the Ricky Stator kit. I need another replacement bulb. Are there any choices other than rhe stock H4 that will fit? Amazon has an 80w cree LED that has H4 connections. Thanks for the responses guys!

  • DeepPurplishBlue

    TT Bronze Member

380 posts
Location: Texas

Posted October 08, 2016 - 07:28 PM


Ok guys, I just returned the original regulator, and ordered the Ricky Stator kit. I need another replacement bulb. Are there any choices other than rhe stock H4 that will fit? Amazon has an 80w cree LED that has H4 connections. Thanks for the responses guys!

 

 

An 80W LED bulb ought to be bright enough to give sunburns and retina damage to nearby pedestrians!  

 

Most of the replacement LED bulbs are 2-3 times brighter than a stock Halogen and rate around 20-40W.

 

A ton of them available on ebay and aliexpress.   I get mine from aliexpress, free shipping from china.  They

work good. 






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