Final travel(forks)

[Eddie8v]

OEM 01 forks with the later 03 and up internals that are alleged to be an improvement. I have used the manual rec and a couple other methods tuners rec to align the forks/axle. Fork movement is smooth as warm butter till they stop. Seal wear/life is not an issue nor is wear on the fork surface.

Forks from what specific bike, please?

And you did mix/match parts, usually not wise without some forethought. Did you check to see that the innards aren't causing the issue? As in remove the spring and bleed screw, re-assemble (without spring and bleed screw) and check for stroke coverage?

I bet the bottoming collar (on the bottom of the damper housing) is likely a larger diameter than the one you removed and is bashing into the recipient cone below.

Edited November 8, 2016 by Eddie8v

[Piney Woods]

I'm sorry, 01 Honda CR250.  Fork internal piston/rods whatever were done by a great tuner well known for this type work. Can't imagine his mis-matching anything. Forks have been revalved since by another tuner which is when this current issue popped up. When I asked him to address it he put me off six weeks in the middle of riding-racing season. I wrote him off at that point.

[Eddie8v]

Hey

Has anyone ever rode at the chadwick riding area down by branson mo. If so were the trails more for atv or are they tighter? The website makes it sound awesome!! Would it be worth the 10 hour drive for me? Its cheap enuff

$5.00 for park sticker free camping ?

Pull the damper assembly out and take a look at the bottoming collars. I bet they're missing anodized and bashed-up. Take a pic and post them up. Take the springs out and check for full travel and bottoming collar operation. All free stuff to check.

[mog]

George wants you to diagnose things without ever taking anything apart to actually know what's inside, it's all theoretical with no end results

[Piney Woods]

Thanks Mog, I always appreciate your insight. The info I receive here is always discussed with my tuner and everything was inspected and found to be excellent in the last service which was less than five hours ride time ago. That tuner is a respected pro who contributes here frequently, I have faith in what he told me after that service. The fork components are in perfect mechanical condition. Only parts non OEM are the SKF seals he installed.

[motrock93b]

Can your tuner provide specifics to you? Stacks, float, preload, exactly what he changed? Without specific information like this, it will be difficult to make logical chsnges. You can do this yourself, then helpful posters here will gladly help. It's a rewarding process, eventually. I cringe to think you might just hand your components to another tuner. However, if he'll give you specifics (stacks, etc.) you'll be able to understand specific changes. Good luck with that. Very unlikely.

If it helps you get your forks apart and measured, maybe a RT kit is a good choice for you. Many are happy with this solution.

Good luck.

[Piney Woods]

Last tuner refused to provide specs when I asked. Same guy who put me off six weeks to make an adjustment. Twice.  And I need to remind everyone that I am not and have not asked for valving specs. In my op I asked if there is a way to determine if the issue is valving or springs. I am sorry if I have not made that clear. And yes, many many times I have wished I had gone the RT route initially as several friends have.

[MetricMuscle]

Get another tuner and tell him what the forks have done to them and what they are doing.  Sounds like you intend to have a shop do the work anyway, you won't be tearing them down yourself.  Isn't one of the upsides to paying for this kinda service not having to figure out what is going on in the fork and how to go about correcting it?

[Piney Woods]

Yep, at least I thought so. I have used tuners and gotten awesome instant success in the past but something is very haywire with this go-round.  Have a couple events coming up so will just have to deal with what I have for a while. I am also wondering how much a solid glide plate attached to the frame rails affects this bike. I have heard both sides of the story, may remove it for some testing tomorrow. Was reading some interesting stuff yesterday about  the Johnny Campbell team using reduced torque on several items to increase flex and ride comfort on their GNCC bikes. Lots of tricks apparently.

Edited November 11, 2016 by YHGEORGE