Slipper Clutch for 2012 WR450F? YZF450 ATV? Adige?

[dirznut]

Hello! I'm in search of a slipper that will fit my 2012, can anyone point me in the right direction? There are a couple take-off 2014-2016 YFZ450 oem slippers that the seller states fit our bikes, but are they really just drop-in? 

 

Thanks!

[SteveThe Snakes]

Hello! I'm in search of a slipper that will fit my 2012, can anyone point me in the right direction? There are a couple take-off 2014-2016 YFZ450 oem slippers that the seller states fit our bikes, but are they really just drop-in? 

 

Thanks!

I'm not sure what your looking to slip. If it's a supermoto bike I would recommend a Hinson BTL slipper clutch. I use one in my supermoto WR450 and it works flawlessly.

Someone has used a YFZ and I believe it took a little work to make it fit. But I'm not sure of how well it would work.

[SteveThe Snakes]

Some info. https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1094321-yfz-clutch-in-my-wr/

[Pinepig]

Hello! I'm in search of a slipper that will fit my 2012, can anyone point me in the right direction? There are a couple take-off 2014-2016 YFZ450 oem slippers that the seller states fit our bikes, but are they really just drop-in? 

 

Thanks!

In a 12,  yes,  straight drop in,   you will need the entire clutch assembly,  plates/frictions all of it.

[dirznut]

In a 12,  yes,  straight drop in,   you will need the entire clutch assembly,  plates/frictions all of it.

 

 

Is this all I would need? Thanks!

 

http://imgur.com/a/z3jrL

 

Or would I also need the basket, thrust, etc?

Edited September 13, 2016 by dirznut

[Pinepig]

It slides right into the stock basket.    You'll need the bearing assembly that rides on the pressure plate at the end of the clutch pushrod too.   The hole in the center of the pressure plate that it rides in is slightly larger than the stock WR450 pressure plate.

[dirznut]

Thanks for all your help. 

 

http://imgur.com/a/TDAvo - YFZ clutch microfiche

 

Just need #24? Or #24-#26?

Edited September 13, 2016 by dirznut

[Pinepig]

23-4-5-and 6.

[dirznut]

Ordered! I'll post back when the parts get here and document the drop-in!

[Pinepig]

Ordered! I'll post back when the parts get here and document the drop-in!

Somebody has to do it,   I'm such a lazy F*!(

[trm122]

Any update?

[dirznut]

Slipper came in, waiting on corresponding YFZ parts. Fingers crossed!

[dirznut]

Update-

 

I'm mid install and I'm a bit stuck. The WR push rod head is hollow with a ball bearing inside. The YFZ push rod head is solid and does not seat far enough inwards with the ball bearing in place (usually the ball bearing goes inside the hollow WR piece). Do I just forego the ball bearing?

[Pinepig]

Update-

 

I'm mid install and I'm a bit stuck. The WR push rod head is hollow with a ball bearing inside. The YFZ push rod head is solid and does not seat far enough inwards with the ball bearing in place (usually the ball bearing goes inside the hollow WR piece). Do I just forego the ball bearing?

Try backing the clutch cable out fully to give the required space.   I had to adjust mine to a new position too.    The ball bearing is there in both setups if you look at the parts diagrams.   

[dirznut]

I ended up not using the YFZ pushrod and reusing the WR pushrod. The YFZ is a solid piece where as the WR is a hollow piece. Since both use a ball bearing, the ball bearing sits inside the WR pushrod and shortens the whole pushrod assembly. I tried using the ball bearing with the YFZ pushrod but I couldn't get the clutch back together, the pushrod was too long.

Here are the parts, about $250 in total shipped but I believe you can get away with just the clutch. New YFZ slippers are floating around eBay for 200 bucks.


YFZ pushrod head on the left, WR on the right. There may have been a difference in diameter but I couldn't tell. Both sat against the clutch top correctly iirc, but I could be wrong in having used the WR piece.


Mid-install, YFZ clutch boss drops right in. 54 ft/lbs on the nut.

Clutch operates as it should and might have even made clutch pull lighter/ shifting smoother. Will report back on slipper function.

Edited September 23, 2016 by dirznut

[boatxr]

On 9/23/2016 at 7:07 AM, Pinepig said:

Try backing the clutch cable out fully to give the required space.   I had to adjust mine to a new position too.    The ball bearing is there in both setups if you look at the parts diagrams.   

 Did you switch over to parts 23-26 from the YFZ? And you had enough adjustment in the cable? 

There seems to be conflicting answers what works here the WR or the YFZ parts. 

The WR - #16 & YFZ - #23 

THe WR have a cutout are for the ball bearing & the YFZ being a flat surface.

 

 

 

 

[boatxr]

I bought a complete eBay new take off except for parts 23-26.

So looking at the fiche.

Part 24, 25, 26 & 16, 17, 18 are the same part # in the WR & YFZ. So no need to buy those again?

only 23 & 15 are different - the part in question here??? 

Did you guys also catch that the ball 27 & 19 are #s different too? 

Possibly the the YFZ part #23 needs the #27 YFZ ball to work and assembly it all together properly?

Or maybe the push rod shaft on the WR is slightly longer (and thus needs the cutout area for the ball) on part #15 and thus part # 23 will never work to put it all back together??? 

 

so who has part #23 from the YFZ installed and working?

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2014/yfz450r-yfz450rel/clutch 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2014/wr450f-wr450fe/clutch

 

 

 

 

Edited October 17, 2022 by boatxr

[boatxr]

Notice 21 , 22 are different parts that 13, 14?  The nut and very much the shape of the washer.

Issue?

Edited October 17, 2022 by boatxr

[boatxr]

On 9/23/2016 at 8:36 AM, dirznut said:

I ended up not using the YFZ pushrod and reusing the WR pushrod. The YFZ is a solid piece where as the WR is a hollow piece. Since both use a ball bearing, the ball bearing sits inside the WR pushrod and shortens the whole pushrod assembly. I tried using the ball bearing with the YFZ pushrod but I couldn't get the clutch back together, the pushrod was too long.

Here are the parts, about $250 in total shipped but I believe you can get away with just the clutch. New YFZ slippers are floating around eBay for 200 bucks.


YFZ pushrod head on the left, WR on the right. There may have been a difference in diameter but I couldn't tell. Both sat against the clutch top correctly iirc, but I could be wrong in having used the WR piece.


Mid-install, YFZ clutch boss drops right in. 54 ft/lbs on the nut.

Clutch operates as it should and might have even made clutch pull lighter/ shifting smoother. Will report back on slipper function.

Did you take take a pic of both of those push rods heads from the side? 

Is their height difference end to end from top of head to end of the road rod section?

That could be a factor? As maybe the ball in the WR part added all together = the same length as the YFZ at the flat section.

Did you put a micrometer on the part to measure the head width etc? 

Ps notice the WR & YFZ use a different ball # too?  

 

Edited October 17, 2022 by boatxr

[boatxr]

I also have a complete post about my upgrade on ADV too. My WR is tagged street legal dual sport for me.

 

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/2012-14-wr450f-must-have-parts-and-pics.934766/page-41