2016 YZ450FX ride report



79 replies to this topic
  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 20, 2016 - 08:30 AM

#61

Exactly how I felt about the bike.
It is a handful at low speed tech trails
I installed the hardpack map and it's tons better, with no power loss at speed that I can tell.
Corners like its on rails but upon exit it's hard to keep the front end down. But I'm a bad rider so it's probably me.

 

I like the stock map for fun factor...but 2nd gear rocks and clutch modulation is a real expert level experience...

I just loaded the hardpack map before reading your post.

Gahdam connector is a pain the first time.

Like programming a sprinkler timer; non-intuitive, but easy.

 

Stripped a seat bolt thread, gonna have to tap it.

 

Put on EE radiator braces; they are kind of janky, shroud fit wise, but strong. No front guard (for more air flow).

 

The gas tank front long bolt set up is just bad. Takes three hands to line everything up and not strip the frame tap...

 

Ride tomorrow!

 

Double checked the sag, this time standing only: it was off. 21/96 changed to 25/105. It did oversteer like crazy before, but it sure made the front wheel stick like glue....



  • mxrider4life847

Posted August 20, 2016 - 09:14 AM

#62

Stripped a seat bolt thread, gonna have to tap it.


The brackets are flimsy. And if not positioned correctly, it's easy to cross-thread. Ask the dealer I bought my FX from. I walked back there as they were putting the seat back on.. they kept fumbling with it. I wasn't real thrilled. Told them to go run a tap through it. They didn't know what a thread file was... It still gives me a bit of hassle each time I take the seat off.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 20, 2016 - 10:47 AM

#63

The brackets are flimsy. And if not positioned correctly, it's easy to cross-thread. Ask the dealer I bought my FX from. I walked back there as they were putting the seat back on.. they kept fumbling with it. I wasn't real thrilled. Told them to go run a tap through it. They didn't know what a thread file was... It still gives me a bit of hassle each time I take the seat off.

 

Looks like the seat brackets are not square with the frame, and it automatically crossthreads

 

I will fix

 

sledge-hammer.jpg



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 20, 2016 - 10:57 AM

#64

Tried the 'Linear Torque/Hardpack' map

 

FI

+2  +2  +2

+2  +2  +3

+2  +2  +2

 

IGN 

-5  -5  -6

-5  -6  -6

-5  -5  -5

 

...it seemed to run smoother, less 'gritty' near idle, but it was too soft for me.  Had to use clutch to lift the front wheel.

 

Made my own map from that map, changing only the IGN

 

FI

+2  +2  +2

+2  +2  +3

+2  +2  +2

 

IGN

 0   0  0  

-2  -2  0

-2  -3  0

 

I will try it tomorrow.  Seems to be the best of both worlds.



  • stevenfallover

Posted August 20, 2016 - 12:04 PM

#65

Might be a dumb question but what is the stock setting?

Thanks.

 

 

Tried the 'Linear Torque/Hardpack' map

 

FI

+2  +2  +2

+2  +2  +3

+2  +2  +2

 

IGN 

-5  -5  -6

-5  -6  -6

-5  -5  -5

 

...it seemed to run smoother, less 'gritty' near idle, but it was too soft for me.  Had to use clutch to lift the front wheel.

 

Made my own map from that map, changing only the IGN

 

FI

+2  +2  +2

+2  +2  +3

+2  +2  +2

 

IGN

 0   0  0  

-2  -2  0

-2  -3  0

 

I will try it tomorrow.  Seems to be the best of both worlds.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 20, 2016 - 12:07 PM

#66

Stock is all Zeros.



  • MtuSmoker

Posted August 20, 2016 - 06:40 PM

#67

I had the same problem with the seat bolts when i first bought mine, ran a tap through and still sucked trying to get the bolts to fit. Think the stock bolts are off by a bit, because I used a bolt in my collection and it hasn't given me trouble since.



  • finbike

Posted August 21, 2016 - 08:44 AM

#68

I had the same problem with the seat bolts when i first bought mine, ran a tap through and still sucked trying to get the bolts to fit. Think the stock bolts are off by a bit, because I used a bolt in my collection and it hasn't given me trouble since.

 

Seems to be a global "problem" on the yamahas, I had the same problem when i got my bike :) The dealer had crossthread one of the bolts whe they installed the wiring harness for the turn signals.

I used a tap and die to fix the problem, but it's still easy to crossthread if the seat is not carefully positioned.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 21, 2016 - 03:17 PM

#69

Ride # 3 today

 

Sag changed to 25/105 (standing), which was more race sag.

 

The front end seemed to wander more, so I added two clicks of compresion and removed one click of rebound, and it worked much better.

 

Re-torqued all the motor mount bolts to 30lbs, and I feel it was more compliant than last week, on the same embedded rock trails. 

 

The new map made the power delivery slightly less 'on/off' right off throttle, but did also take away some of the very low rpm / high load throttle response, which is fine.

Power through the mid is flatter, but if you turn the throttle more, it's still there.

The rpms no longer rise on their own at partial throttle on flat ground. Feels more like a Beta in power delivery now, very easy to ride, but it has more power overall vs. the 430 Beta, in all circumstances.

 

Suspension and steering are now very neutral, even on extremely loose/hard surfaces. Before with the other sag setting it was better for 'flat track' turns, but worse for everything else. 

Now the forks feel less spikey, probably also becuase of the additional hours on the forks.

 

Left fork seal is leaking, and it is not a tube nick, or debris inside the seal.....gonna have to pull the fork.



  • Ka0sX

Posted August 24, 2016 - 04:26 PM

#70

hey krannie iam 90kilo = 198 lbs

 

Suspension on my bike is set for bout 85kilo i like the suspension but have been trying to set my sag aswell but TBH i find it difficult

 

When you say 25/105 What exactly do you mean ?



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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 24, 2016 - 04:49 PM

#71

25mm = static sag distance

105mm = race sag distance

 

Measure race sag STANDING UP with all your riding gear on.

Chock the front wheel some how, and have a buddy do the measuring.

 

https://www.procircu...ing the Sag.pdf


Edited by KRANNIE, August 24, 2016 - 04:50 PM.


  • Ka0sX

Posted August 24, 2016 - 05:00 PM

#72

25mm = static sag distance

105mm = race sag distance

 

Measure race sag STANDING UP with all your riding gear on.

Chock the front wheel some how, and have a buddy do the measuring.

 

https://www.procircu...ing the Sag.pdf

 

 

Thankis right now i just put bike on center stand and i got the following

 

64cm =640 mm bike on stand

60cm =600 mm nostand

53cm=530 mm me on bike

 

So that gives me a race sag of 70 does it ?

 

What would you suggest now ?

 

Do i go counter clock wise or clock wise on the spring to reach closer to 100


Edited by Ka0sX, August 24, 2016 - 05:07 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 24, 2016 - 05:10 PM

#73

Thankis right now i just put bike on center stand and i got the following

 

64cm =640 mm bike on stand

60cm =600 mm nostand

53cm=530 mm me on bike

 

So that gives me a race sag of 70 does it ?

 

What would you suggest now ?

 

That means you have a static sag of 40 mm and a race sag of 70 mm.

 

If you are measuring by reaching back with a tape meausure, it will be really far off. 

Adjust your static sag closer to 25-30mm (tighten down the spring nut) and re-measure STANDING UP with someone else measuring the sag



  • Ka0sX

Posted August 24, 2016 - 05:19 PM

#74

That means you have a static sag of 40 mm and a race sag of 70 mm.

 

If you are measuring by reaching back with a tape meausure, it will be really far off. 

Adjust your static sag closer to 25-30mm (tighten down the spring nut) and re-measure STANDING UP with someone else measuring the sag

 

 

I have someone else doing the measuring, This tighen and loosen is getting me so to get my sag closer to the 100 mark i have to go clock wise or counter clockwise on the spring bolt ?



  • Monk

Posted August 24, 2016 - 05:19 PM

#75

Now that these new FX bikes have a wider ratio gear box how many hrs you think we can get before a rebuild is done? No racing just regular trail riding my 2014 yz450 is kicking my ass aswell, Looking to go to a 250FX or 250X


I dropped from the 450F to a 250FX. Don't regret it one bit, even spent some time on the 450FX and it only confirmed my change...

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 24, 2016 - 05:21 PM

#76

I have someone else doing the measuring, This tighen and loosen is getting me so to get my sag closer to the 100 mark i have to go clock wise or counter clockwise on the spring bolt ?

 

Right, read the link I posted and follow the instructions



  • BGoyins

Posted August 24, 2016 - 06:34 PM

#77

Subtract 530mm from 640mm to get race sag: 110mm. Follow Krannies instructions and you will end up with something like 30mm static sag and 100mm race sag. This is what you wanted. Notice that the way you were calculating race sag you would still have 70mm difference and be further confused.
Meant to tag this on Ka0sX post.

Edited by BGoyins, August 24, 2016 - 06:39 PM.


  • Ka0sX

Posted August 24, 2016 - 09:35 PM

#78

Subtract 530mm from 640mm to get race sag: 110mm. Follow Krannies instructions and you will end up with something like 30mm static sag and 100mm race sag. This is what you wanted. Notice that the way you were calculating race sag you would still have 70mm difference and be further confused.
Meant to tag this on Ka0sX post.

 

 

ohhhh damn i have been subracting the wrong number then 

 

64cm =640 mm bike on stand

60cm =600 mm nostand

53cm=530 mm me on bike

 

i was subtracting the middle number and lower but. i actually have to subtract the top number and bottom number gotcha 

 

Thank You BGoyins

 

 

did a different measurement point and adjusted some more

 

Also did a click or 2 on the shock with screww driver

 

new numbers  are

 

On stand 640

Off stand 595

On bike 530

 

640-530= 110 = Race sag ????

640-595= 45= Static Sag ???

 

Just asking as this shit is confusing to me its my 1st time actually trying to set up the suspension of a bike properly

 

Thanks


Edited by Ka0sX, August 24, 2016 - 10:33 PM.


  • Finchy637

Posted August 24, 2016 - 10:52 PM

#79

Ride #2

 

This bike requires a stronger, faster, rider than me, to tame it in the tight woods. Well, SoCal woods, anyway. Rough and silty.

 

It is awesome until it gets really rough and slow, and then it's hard to hang on to!

 

I mean rough..... baby head sized jagged rocks buried inside silt and grass.... rutted, uphill, and off camber too boot.

We rode a dry river bed for about 4 miles, and it kicked my ass. 

 

If I concentrate really hard, it works really well, but my BETA is better at stuff like this....which I already assumed....but the BETA will NOT take whoops and 'trouble' like this bike does. It is stable.

 

I can now see how some riders 'de-map' it for smoother power delivery.

It's not bad at all, but after riding the BETA ( sim to the KTM), it is comparatively 'abrupt' right off idle.

Plus, at idle, it is very torquey. Torquey enough to 'push' going very slow if you are not on top of it....but if you crack the throttle, the torque does not increase with throttle, so it feels like it has less....until the rpms come up quite a bit.

Granted I am 80lbs heavier than the average rider, so I usually expect this kind of power issue.

 

One cool thing I did notice is that it turns inside really, really well. 

Even at speed, you can just back off the throttle and lay it over, and it tracks.

Add some throttle and you feel like you acutally have some skills....

 

Also, the engine braking, while not 'soft' at all, does not make the bike handle poorly, like some other bikes (KTM).

Usually I always ride in a higher gear, and use the clutch constantly, to nearly eliminate the engine braking, to improve handling.

Not needed on this bike at all. 

 

The suspension in the forest is a little to agressvie however.

The Enzo valving it not cut out for a rock fest ride. 

If I were a bit faster it would be better. Tried riding that way, and it starts to smooth out....but my brain will no longer process information that fast for very long...

 

If I do go faster, this happens...:

 

:cry:

I own an FX and I'm finding that the forks from stock handle everything great but at least from me are way to soft and I found the front end washing out. I'm not sure if it is because I ride to far forward but I did find that after tightening everything up a few clicks it started to handle everything like a dream.

 

I actually tuned my up to the hard hitting tune and I love it. I am also a very aggressive rider.

 

My two grips about this bike are that it is so tall. I'm kind of short (5'8") but if I find that my shortness compared to the bikes height causes me problems. I would lower the bike but the rear suspension is just so prefect. I have not touched the settings since I got the bike.

My second grip is the gas tank or mileage that it gets. With my aggressive style I don't get much out of the tank.

 

I would recommend that you and whoever has this bike try to stay away from 1st unless you really have to. 1st gear to me is great in a bind but other than that is a useless gear that only causes more problems than it solves. It creates way to much torque and at least from me makes it a pain to keep the front wheel on the ground. Second will climb anything you throw at it just about.

 

I really love this FX.

 

I live around a place that you can't go anywhere without finding some rocks and I found that the bike will handle them just fine at a good speed as long as the forks stiff enough. When they were soft I found my front end just bouncing all over the place and would send me off the trail or someplace I didn't want to be.



  • BGoyins

Posted August 25, 2016 - 04:44 AM

#80

ohhhh damn i have been subracting the wrong number then 

 

64cm =640 mm bike on stand

60cm =600 mm nostand

53cm=530 mm me on bike

 

i was subtracting the middle number and lower but. i actually have to subtract the top number and bottom number gotcha 

 

Thank You BGoyins

 

 

did a different measurement point and adjusted some more

 

Also did a click or 2 on the shock with screww driver

 

new numbers  are

 

On stand 640

Off stand 595

On bike 530

 

640-530= 110 = Race sag ????

640-595= 45= Static Sag ???

 

Just asking as this shit is confusing to me its my 1st time actually trying to set up the suspension of a bike properly

 

Thanks

 

Yes, you're doing the calculations correctly now. You basically haven't changed anything with the spring preload. You need to tighten the spring preload to get to a 100mm race sag. As you may have noticed, it's much easier to adjust the spring tension with the bike on the stand. Turn the adjustment ring 2 or 3 turns clockwise, looking down, and see how it's changing the sag numbers. Once the "spring preload to sag" relationship clicks in your head it will be easy to know which way to turn the adjuster in the future.







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