2012 wr450 f/sm electrical problems


27 replies to this topic
  • Pinepig

Posted August 05, 2016 - 12:09 PM

#21

First thing is to find a power lead that is grounded,    you don't need to know where it goes to start,   just ground out one probe and put the other probe on the wire end.  ( disconnect the + side of the battery )   Once you find a wire that you think has a problem,  then try to find the other end and make sure the invisible water goes all the way through using the same method but isolate both ends and then double check the grounding issue.   If the water goes through and is not spilling out it's not your problem.  

 

I'd key on anything in the bundle running through the steering neck area and the headlight wiring in particular since you mentioned that it was a problem.

 

This is just a matter of elimination,  you may get lucky and find it first oooorrrrrrr  not so lucky.  Thankfully the harnesses aren't that complicated on a dirtbike.



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted August 05, 2016 - 12:17 PM

#22

So after running the wires yesterday I did find out that the headlight is not working due to the grounds been melted also my kill switch wire is not working due to the grounds being melted. from what I read online this joint connector 40 is just a junction for all the grounds to come together in ground out together
I'm thinking the reason it might've melted is because it was pulling too many amps when I had the H ID installed and overheated and melted the connector therefore not grounding out all the grounds as they're supposed to

  • Pinepig

Posted August 05, 2016 - 02:11 PM

#23

That's possible,  if the grounds were a smaller gauge than the power it could have done that.  Usually the fuse will blow first.   if you bypassed the fuse.........................



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted August 06, 2016 - 09:55 AM

#24

Is there anyway I can confirm that they all need to be grounded together

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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 06, 2016 - 06:13 PM

#25

Is there anyway I can confirm that they all need to be grounded together

 

There is only one ground, and that is the metal of the bike.

So, they can all be touching/combined, or they can all be touching the frame or motor.

 

Ideally, you would want the grounds to all come together in one place, and connect directly to the engine casing for ground.

That's impractical, so you have a ground harness.



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted August 09, 2016 - 09:57 AM

#26

There is only one ground, and that is the metal of the bike.
So, they can all be touching/combined, or they can all be touching the frame or motor.

Ideally, you would want the grounds to all come together in one place, and connect directly to the engine casing for ground.
That's impractical, so you have a ground harness.


I wish I would've seen this sooner. So what I ultimately did was go to my buddy's wr and look at the connector that fried on my bike and it had a metal plate that connected all of the grounds together. so I snipped my melted ball of a connector and soldered all of the grounds together essentially doing the same thing as the connector did. Everything came back online aka headlight, charging system, and the kill switch. I really want to know how it fried but the only thing I can think of is the hid pulling to many amps causing the wire to get hot and melting the connector therefore ungrounding the rest. I took it for a 5 hour ride yesterday and not one problem.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 09, 2016 - 01:14 PM

#27

I wish I would've seen this sooner. So what I ultimately did was go to my buddy's wr and look at the connector that fried on my bike and it had a metal plate that connected all of the grounds together. so I snipped my melted ball of a connector and soldered all of the grounds together essentially doing the same thing as the connector did. Everything came back online aka headlight, charging system, and the kill switch. I really want to know how it fried but the only thing I can think of is the hid pulling to many amps causing the wire to get hot and melting the connector therefore ungrounding the rest. I took it for a 5 hour ride yesterday and not one problem.

 

The HID is rated for a specific amount of watts of current draw, but......because it usese a balast, the START UP draw is much more than the rated draw.

Plus, the ballast is 'warming up' for minutes, so all that draw is probably 200+ watts through the connector, which is made to handle 35 watts, so it gets hot. 

Ideally, all aftermarket lighting (accept LED) should be on a dedicated harness to the battery, and switched through a relay....the switch should not handle any of the load current.



  • Pinepig

Posted August 09, 2016 - 02:48 PM

#28

I wish I would've seen this sooner. So what I ultimately did was go to my buddy's wr and look at the connector that fried on my bike and it had a metal plate that connected all of the grounds together. so I snipped my melted ball of a connector and soldered all of the grounds together essentially doing the same thing as the connector did. Everything came back online aka headlight, charging system, and the kill switch. I really want to know how it fried but the only thing I can think of is the hid pulling to many amps causing the wire to get hot and melting the connector therefore ungrounding the rest. I took it for a 5 hour ride yesterday and not one problem.

 

Glad to hear you have it sorted.






 
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