2012 wr450 f/sm electrical problems


27 replies to this topic
  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 19, 2016 - 05:00 PM

#1

Ok guys first thing first... I have a 2012 wr450 that is sm. Me being a fan boy of HIDS I installed a 35 watt ballast and bulb. This was the cause of all problem listed next. After I installed it the bike would be dead when I would come to a stop. So after a 30-40min ride the bike wouldn't start over via starter. I then decided to wire in a switch to turn on and off the hid when I needed it aka at night. Well I went on a group ride yesterday with the hid off and when it came to turning the HID on at night no power. Or the small running light. So I rode literally a foot ball field and get an engine light. (Code 46) I stopped at the nearest gas station to find the bike able to turn on via starter but shortly after running it would start to flicker on the dash between thumps and start to die out. I finally got it to a buddys house gunning it between it being on and me dropping the clutch to force it on.

So what I've done so far is rip the dumb ass hid out and install a normal bulb. Me being narrow minded thought after I turned it on it would recharge the battery and I could ride home but now it keeps dying out after I get it started. Also there is no running light or headlight on when I kick it on like it used to, I checked the fuse and it isn't popped. I never tampered with the stock headlight wiring. So it should turn on when the bike is on right?

Any clues on the dying after kicked on symptoms and the non working headlight?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 19, 2016 - 06:45 PM

#2

Your battery is probably toast.

Your rectifier might be toast to, but you won't know till you put in a new battery and test the voltage static and active.

 

 

How do you know the HID was only 35 watts? 

Most of them are under rated so people will use them on their stock stator, but 35w is maxing out the stator and charging system, so when you use the HID, no power goes to charging the battery, and you end up with an open circuit inside the battery, and if it's lead acid, you can kill a cell pretty easily.

 

I had to put a 110 watt stator in to properly run my '35 watt' HID system....

 

The headlight runs off of AC, so that would mean you fried the rectifier if there is no light, as the rectifier is the last point before the ac and dc are distributed down the harness.



  • Pinepig

Posted July 20, 2016 - 11:49 AM

#3

He said it was a 2012,  it's all DC including the headlight.



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 20, 2016 - 12:32 PM

#4

Ok I am buying a battery today and am going test the output today

  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 20, 2016 - 05:07 PM

#5

OK new battery 12v normal 12v revved up rr is had good diodes all around, the stator is charging to 35v on rev... to but how to you check the stator resistance? I think it is the 2 prong coming from the stator correct the resistance is .3 and it's supposed to be .5-.7 so would that make the cause of my problem? And still no headlight

  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 20, 2016 - 06:21 PM

#6

Ok lemme explain better, the new battery idle is 12v when revved it is 12.2 so no change really, took the stator off and all the readings 3.0-3.1 so turned the bike on and the stator on acv 200 was 34v and like 55v revved, now to the rectifier all the diodes read fine and not going the wrong way. The only test I did that was slightly off was the stator resistance was .3 and the manual is .5-.7

  • Pinepig

Posted July 21, 2016 - 08:52 AM

#7

Sounds like the rectifier is bad since the voltage coming out of the stator is good and you are only showing 12.2 at the battery ( should be 13 and a halfish ).  You also have a short in your headlight wiring somewhere.   The headlight runs off the battery in a 2012 along with everything else on the DC side of the rectifier.



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 22, 2016 - 02:36 PM

#8

I think the headlight / lack of charging is directly related

  • Pinepig

Posted July 22, 2016 - 09:04 PM

#9

I think the headlight / lack of charging is directly related

It may be that you fried the rectifier when you wired in the HID headlight ( and you still have a short,  that's why you still have no headlight ) ,   remember the headlight runs off the battery,  the rectifier just puts energy back into the battery.

 

I wouldn't put a new rectifier on it till I got the headlight working correctly,   or you can just burn 100 dollar bills throwing rectifier after rectifier at it till you decide you might want to fix the headlight wiring..



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 26, 2016 - 05:50 PM

#10

So it is at Bobby js the Yamaha dealer here in Albuquerque, I sent it there for a diagnostic supposedly they've dropped over three hours in labor and it trying to find out what's wrong with the wiring and after replacing the rectifier from a different Wr. So instead of them finding the problem in the wiring they're just telling me that I need a new wiring harness instead, I feel like that is a catchall and lazy way to fix the bike... So paying for a diagnostic and getting a vague reply I am might have to fight them on paying due to the fact that they still don't know what's wrong

Edited by AnonymousBlackX, July 26, 2016 - 05:51 PM.


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  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 27, 2016 - 09:30 AM

#11

I finally talked to the tech at Bobby j's who was working on my WR he said that he went through all of the relays replaced the stator and the rectifier with another WRs and it is still not getting any electrical to he headlight, he thinks that there's corrosion inside my harness or something inside my harness that is not letting it transfer the signal what should I do? They have an $90 markup on a $200 harness so that harness is 280 versus 190 if I were to buy myself. And three hours of labor so almost $700 to install the new harness and put it on. They're also charging me $100 for a diagnostic so About 800 total... Has anyone ever installed a harness themselves or should I probably just try to go through my harness and fix it? Any help at this point is appreciated

Edited by AnonymousBlackX, July 27, 2016 - 09:31 AM.


  • Spiritwalker2222

Posted July 28, 2016 - 08:46 AM

#12

I finally talked to the tech at Bobby j's who was working on my WR he said that he went through all of the relays replaced the stator and the rectifier with another WRs and it is still not getting any electrical to he headlight, he thinks that there's corrosion inside my harness or something inside my harness that is not letting it transfer the signal what should I do? They have an $90 markup on a $200 harness so that harness is 280 versus 190 if I were to buy myself. And three hours of labor so almost $700 to install the new harness and put it on. They're also charging me $100 for a diagnostic so About 800 total... Has anyone ever installed a harness themselves or should I probably just try to go through my harness and fix it? Any help at this point is appreciated

 

LOL, that's not a mechanic. He's a part changer.



  • Pinepig

Posted July 28, 2016 - 06:06 PM

#13

LOL, that's not a mechanic. He's a part changer.

Yep,  get your bike out of that shop pronto,  they are learning how to work on motorcycles on your dime.   hell you can learn how to work on it for free.

 

A multi-meter,  a shop manual with a wiring diagram and about 45 minutes is all I would need to find the problem and I don't do electrical work or mechanic shit for a living.   A guy that really knew what he was doing could find it in about 20 minutes tops.



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 28, 2016 - 06:08 PM

#14

Ok well that's the plan, unfortunately I have to pay 100$ for them not to tell me what's wrong with it I really want to fight it but I'm 8 hours away from home

  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 29, 2016 - 04:44 PM

#15

I'm 95% sure it's the headlight relay, I'm am going to replace it and run over the main connector

  • Pinepig

Posted July 30, 2016 - 06:49 AM

#16

I'm 95% sure it's the headlight relay, I'm am going to replace it and run over the main connector

 

Or you could use a multimeter and be 100% sure before you throw parts at it,  you know like the guys that were working on your bike that you were complaining about.

 

Think of wiring like water pipes with invisible water,    it you pour it in on this side and it's not coming out that side,   what's in the middle that is either blocking it ( bad part ) or letting it run out ( short ).  You just need the multimeter to see the invisible water.    Just start at the ends of the pipes and work your way towards the middle.



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted July 30, 2016 - 06:55 AM

#17

Roger that

  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted August 04, 2016 - 10:09 PM

#18

OK guys after two minutes of looking I noticed that connector 40 has melted every single wire and all of the connections. (All which are ground wires) It states in the middle that is a joint connector does that mean that all the grounds come together or they delicately routed in certain ways. I think that I might be screwed for the fact that I don't know if I can find another connector to wire in. Here is the wiring diagram so you can see connector 40 at the bottom middle also is a picture of all of the numbers and the key. ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1470377277.076800.jpg ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1470377364.519703.jpg ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1470377364.519703.jpg

  • Pinepig

Posted August 05, 2016 - 06:10 AM

#19

Usually when you have a big group of melted grounds,  you have a wire that has power that has shorted with them as the cause.   Use the ohms setting on your meter to look for the offending wire.    One lead on a ground and one lead on the power wire you want to check.   Meter does nothing,  wire is good,   meter changes it may be an issue.   Be aware that bulbs/sensors ( and their filaments ) can cause a false reading doing this,  either remove the bulb/sensor or unplug it's connector. You want to check the wire only.



  • AnonymousBlackX

Posted August 05, 2016 - 11:56 AM

#20

Ok I will do that tonight, how will I know where they are supposed to go?




 
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