2012 wr450 f/sm electrical problems
Posted July 19, 2016 - 05:00 PM
So what I've done so far is rip the dumb ass hid out and install a normal bulb. Me being narrow minded thought after I turned it on it would recharge the battery and I could ride home but now it keeps dying out after I get it started. Also there is no running light or headlight on when I kick it on like it used to, I checked the fuse and it isn't popped. I never tampered with the stock headlight wiring. So it should turn on when the bike is on right?
Any clues on the dying after kicked on symptoms and the non working headlight?
Posted July 19, 2016 - 06:45 PM
Your battery is probably toast.
Your rectifier might be toast to, but you won't know till you put in a new battery and test the voltage static and active.
How do you know the HID was only 35 watts?
Most of them are under rated so people will use them on their stock stator, but 35w is maxing out the stator and charging system, so when you use the HID, no power goes to charging the battery, and you end up with an open circuit inside the battery, and if it's lead acid, you can kill a cell pretty easily.
I had to put a 110 watt stator in to properly run my '35 watt' HID system....
The headlight runs off of AC, so that would mean you fried the rectifier if there is no light, as the rectifier is the last point before the ac and dc are distributed down the harness.
Posted July 20, 2016 - 05:07 PM
Posted July 20, 2016 - 06:21 PM
Posted July 21, 2016 - 08:52 AM
Sounds like the rectifier is bad since the voltage coming out of the stator is good and you are only showing 12.2 at the battery ( should be 13 and a halfish ). You also have a short in your headlight wiring somewhere. The headlight runs off the battery in a 2012 along with everything else on the DC side of the rectifier.
Posted July 22, 2016 - 09:04 PM
I think the headlight / lack of charging is directly related
It may be that you fried the rectifier when you wired in the HID headlight ( and you still have a short, that's why you still have no headlight ) , remember the headlight runs off the battery, the rectifier just puts energy back into the battery.
I wouldn't put a new rectifier on it till I got the headlight working correctly, or you can just burn 100 dollar bills throwing rectifier after rectifier at it till you decide you might want to fix the headlight wiring..
- jimmym likes this
- Like This
Posted July 26, 2016 - 05:50 PM
Edited by AnonymousBlackX, July 26, 2016 - 05:51 PM.
Posted July 27, 2016 - 09:30 AM
Edited by AnonymousBlackX, July 27, 2016 - 09:31 AM.
Posted July 28, 2016 - 08:46 AM
I finally talked to the tech at Bobby j's who was working on my WR he said that he went through all of the relays replaced the stator and the rectifier with another WRs and it is still not getting any electrical to he headlight, he thinks that there's corrosion inside my harness or something inside my harness that is not letting it transfer the signal what should I do? They have an $90 markup on a $200 harness so that harness is 280 versus 190 if I were to buy myself. And three hours of labor so almost $700 to install the new harness and put it on. They're also charging me $100 for a diagnostic so About 800 total... Has anyone ever installed a harness themselves or should I probably just try to go through my harness and fix it? Any help at this point is appreciated
LOL, that's not a mechanic. He's a part changer.
Posted July 28, 2016 - 06:06 PM
LOL, that's not a mechanic. He's a part changer.
Yep, get your bike out of that shop pronto, they are learning how to work on motorcycles on your dime. hell you can learn how to work on it for free.
A multi-meter, a shop manual with a wiring diagram and about 45 minutes is all I would need to find the problem and I don't do electrical work or mechanic shit for a living. A guy that really knew what he was doing could find it in about 20 minutes tops.
Posted July 30, 2016 - 06:49 AM
I'm 95% sure it's the headlight relay, I'm am going to replace it and run over the main connector
Or you could use a multimeter and be 100% sure before you throw parts at it, you know like the guys that were working on your bike that you were complaining about.
Think of wiring like water pipes with invisible water, it you pour it in on this side and it's not coming out that side, what's in the middle that is either blocking it ( bad part ) or letting it run out ( short ). You just need the multimeter to see the invisible water. Just start at the ends of the pipes and work your way towards the middle.
Posted August 04, 2016 - 10:09 PM
Posted August 05, 2016 - 06:10 AM
Usually when you have a big group of melted grounds, you have a wire that has power that has shorted with them as the cause. Use the ohms setting on your meter to look for the offending wire. One lead on a ground and one lead on the power wire you want to check. Meter does nothing, wire is good, meter changes it may be an issue. Be aware that bulbs/sensors ( and their filaments ) can cause a false reading doing this, either remove the bulb/sensor or unplug it's connector. You want to check the wire only.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users