General observations


15 replies to this topic
  • Nuklhed

Posted June 19, 2016 - 04:38 PM

#1

I run a 2014 WR450 with the GYTR ECU and other easy mods.  I notice a few things about this bike that bug me.  Here's my question:  am I the only one this happens to?
 

When my technique is poor and I stall it (usually stuck in the roots on a hill) on the compression stroke, I can push the e-button until my thumb bleeds.  All I'm doing is heating up the starter and wearing the battery down.  Kick it, it starts in 3-5 kicks.  Although, this weekend, I stalled it under compression and the starter wouldn't move it the engine--happened twice and was amazingly hard to kick that first kick.

 

When I'm lugging the bike around, it sounds like there's a chatter coming from the chain/sprocket area.  When the RPM's come up, it goes away.  It's when I'm in the low RPMs and revving up or lugging up a hill.  Surely this can't be the timing chain after 1200 miles.  I don't ride it that hard.  I think I need to tighten the chain, but just did this about 250 miles ago.

 

 

SO, anyone else experience this?  My CO is set at -8, which I guessing contributes.  It originally made starting easier, but now seems to make no difference from stock setting of 0.

 

Thanks for your input! 

 

About me: I don't ride like an a-hole.  I tend to ride slow-mid speed and run technical stuff, not wide open throttle.  More about clutch control (when I can remember how) rather than wheel spin.


Edited by Nuklhed, June 19, 2016 - 04:39 PM.


  • DangerRanger245

Posted June 20, 2016 - 08:14 PM

#2

2015 here, notice the same things. Yamahas are noisy. Chain noise is normal, you probably can't hear it at higher rpm. When you stall, sometimes it's at TDC. Starter won't do it, you have to put pressure on kick start and slide it by.

  • Kidrman

Posted June 21, 2016 - 05:45 AM

#3

2015 too. Same noises that bug now and then. I've experienced the starter issue but just wait two seconds and hit the button again. I've never kicked this bike since I uncorked it with Fmf pipe and gytr ecu

  • DangerRanger245

Posted June 21, 2016 - 09:58 AM

#4

2015 too. Same noises that bug now and then. I've experienced the starter issue but just wait two seconds and hit the button again. I've never kicked this bike since I uncorked it with Fmf pipe and gytr ecu


It'll happen. I've got the fmf, Ecu with fmf map.

  • Nathh

Posted June 21, 2016 - 08:13 PM

#5

If the starter isn't turning over the engine and it's hard to kick it might be worth getting your valves checked.

If the exhaust valves are out of spec the auto decompression may not be working fully which is why it feels so

hard to turnover.

 

Also If I stall or drop my bike and it's turning over a lot but not starting I usually pull out the cold start lever (where the choke usually is) to get it to start.

 

With the chain noise that is pretty common, the bikes come out with some foam under the chain slider which after a while can 

wear out which is why you're hearing this noise now. You likely hear it more at lower RPM cause you're decelerating.

When accelerating there is tension on the chain and therefore it's less likely to slap the swingarm, but when you let off it 

becomes slack and can slap the chain slider more.



  • vlxjim

Posted June 22, 2016 - 10:02 PM

#6

First off change the CO to +13 to 15. Trust me I'm one of the ones that did all the testing and tuning maps when the FI WR's came out. My maps and CO setting are still used and are still the best option for those that have used them. Yamaha them selfs recommend a CO bump of +7. This campaign of using negative CO numbers is ridiculous. For our findings we used gas analyzers. Not some 250r header with a multimeter.

 

Make sure that you set the idle to 2000 RPM.

 

WR's don't like to be luged. When you luged it your going lower than the 2000 RPM idle. And the flywheel does not have the mass to carry over the stroke.

 

As said check the valves. If they are off, starting gets hard.



  • Nuklhed

Posted June 28, 2016 - 02:19 PM

#7

Thanks, vlxjim, I'll get the CO changed.  I can't believe the valves would be out already. When I mean lug, I guess I mean in the 2-4K range.  I can't lug a bike that idles at 2K!

 

PS, I'm running your maps.  Thank you very much, Sir!



  • Chaconne

Posted June 28, 2016 - 02:36 PM

#8

Thanks, vlxjim, I'll get the CO changed.  I can't believe the valves would be out already. When I mean lug, I guess I mean in the 2-4K range.  I can't lug a bike that idles at 2K!

 

PS, I'm running your maps.  Thank you very much, Sir!

I lug mine (2014) like an XR. I have FMF, ecu, vlxjim map, uncorked, and larger rear dirtricks sprocket & that's it. Didn't you say it was a 2014 how many hours on the valves? Regular maintenance adjustment might be needed.


Edited by Chaconne, June 28, 2016 - 02:36 PM.


Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Nuklhed

Posted June 29, 2016 - 05:19 PM

#9

Chaconne, it is a 2014.  It probably has about 60-65 hours on it.  It runs great and has no shortage of power, doesn't smoke or stink, so I'm guessing/hoping the valves aren't out of spec. 

 

I looked at the manual for adjusting valves. Those weird little spacer things are new to me.  Man, I feel like a dinosaur sometimes!



  • Nuklhed

Posted June 29, 2016 - 05:21 PM

#10

PS. VLXJim.  I'm going to change the CO settings tomorrow at the dealer to +15.  Thanks for your help!



  • Nuklhed

Posted June 30, 2016 - 05:09 PM

#11

I bumped the CO to +15.  It was at +8, not -8 as I thought.  Didn't seem to start easier, but it was only one try after sitting for 15 minutes.  I did seem to not want to stall as easy--an odd side effect.

 

VLXJim--I'm running the smooth on bottom rush on top map.  Thank you again for your help.



  • vlxjim

Posted June 30, 2016 - 05:59 PM

#12

Having the CO bumped up to +15 blends well with my map. Make sure that your idle is set to 2000 RPM's. Looks like you need to check your valves. Did you check them at the first 10 hrs?



  • Chaconne

Posted June 30, 2016 - 06:04 PM

#13

Having the CO bumped up to +15 blends well with my map. Make sure that your idle is set to 2000 RPM's. Looks like you need to check your valves. Did you check them at the first 10 hrs?

Agree. I would check the valves.



  • Nuklhed

Posted July 01, 2016 - 11:52 AM

#14

Haven't checked the valves.  For some reason, I have this belief that there's no way the valves are out of adjustment.  The LBS has the same feeling. 

 

Looks like I should check the valves.....



  • Nuklhed

Posted July 04, 2016 - 06:14 PM

#15

Took it out today.  After the warmup, the bike started much easier every time.  No compression stalls so I didn't get to try it there.  Every where else was a one push start.



  • Mr YumYums

Posted July 08, 2016 - 06:05 PM

#16

Has anyone ever lost rear sprocket bolts? I've lost like 4 now. And when I bought some msr Ironman sprocket bolts, 4 of the 6 broke when tightening. It's says here in the manual to torque them to 36 ft lbs but that sound far too high. I bought some flat socket head cap screws (m8 1.25x30mm) strength is 10.9 and they do fit but the max torque is 20 ft lbs on them.




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.