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14 replies to this topic
  • Northern Pride

Posted June 10, 2016 - 06:02 PM

#1

So i have a tusk street legal kit on my 2008 wr450 and i wired the headlight directly to battery, couldnt get it to work with new kit or old plug. I put a ricky stator in it after i kept draining the battery and it ran great for about a month but today during the end of a 2' hour ride, mostly 1st to 3rd gear, it started misfiring, popping and back firing while i was on the main road going home in 5th gear. I also lost my blinkers, headligh very dim and could barely hear the horn. Do you guys think its the battery? I have no idea how old it is, it came with the bike and i did drain it about 3 times. Do these bikes run crappy with a dead battery? It will idle fine but starts acting like crap when i give it throttle, like its miss firing or not igniting. Thanks

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 10, 2016 - 06:21 PM

#2

It drained three times and you are not sure if you should replace it?

 

REPLACE IT

 

Whether that is the total cause of your problem remains to be seen, but you need to service the electrical system:

Clean the harness points

Clean the ground points

Do a Stator test

Replace the battery with a Li ion



  • Northern Pride

Posted June 10, 2016 - 06:23 PM

#3

Can you explain how to test the stator?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 10, 2016 - 06:52 PM

#4

Can you explain how to test the stator?

 

You need to download the service manual from Yamaha's website, and buy a Digital Multimeter (DMM)



  • stevethe

Posted June 10, 2016 - 06:54 PM

#5

The headlight isn't supposed to be directly wired to the battery on those bikes. At least none of mine are done that way but it sounds like you have a bad battery.

  • Northern Pride

Posted June 11, 2016 - 11:53 AM

#6

Charged the battery over night, tested at 13.54 I then ran the bike and reving it, the numbers did not increase. Still back firing and missing. Stator or rectifier is my guess. I will check all connections to the ricky stator. Any ideas?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 11, 2016 - 12:43 PM

#7

Ricky stator is your problem, most likely. 

 

They used to be known as 'Risky Stator'....



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  • Northern Pride

Posted June 11, 2016 - 01:35 PM

#8

Yea i think i am going to pull it and send it back, its only 1 month old

  • Northern Pride

Posted June 12, 2016 - 03:43 PM

#9

Found a cooked fuse under the seat, should of checked that first. Replaced it and good to go. Think directly wiring the stock headlight to battery can cook it? How many watts is the stock head light?

  • stevethe

Posted June 12, 2016 - 04:04 PM

#10

About 35 watts.

  • toten

Posted June 13, 2016 - 02:30 PM

#11

My WR is an 03, I don't know what was changed. 

 

From the factory, it ran lighting on AC. When the street legal kit was installed, the lighting was changed to run off the battery. However, my charging system wasn't changed. The stock lighting will pull more power than the DC side of the system can provide, and when the battery is dead it'll start running poorly - the rpm that it'll run at will decrease over time. 

 

The right way to fix it is to float the ground and install a DC only R/R. The lazy way I fixed it for now is to run LEDs front and rear. 

 

As I said, I'm not sure that this applies to you.



  • Northern Pride

Posted June 13, 2016 - 04:14 PM

#12

My WR is an 03, I don't know what was changed. 
 
From the factory, it ran lighting on AC. When the street legal kit was installed, the lighting was changed to run off the battery. However, my charging system wasn't changed. The stock lighting will pull more power than the DC side of the system can provide, and when the battery is dead it'll start running poorly - the rpm that it'll run at will decrease over time. 
 
The right way to fix it is to float the ground and install a DC only R/R. The lazy way I fixed it for now is to run LEDs front and rear. 
 
As I said, I'm not sure that this applies to you.

Thanks, i am going with an led headlight, eliminating stock. Led is 18w, hardwires directly to the battery. I should be ok right?

  • toten

Posted June 15, 2016 - 05:53 AM

#13

You still ought to check with a multimeter and verify that it isn't draining. I think available power is around 30-35W on the DC side. The LED taillight shouldn't use much, so you should be ok... I think. 

 

As I said, this isn't the right way to do it but it seems to work.



  • Northern Pride

Posted June 16, 2016 - 03:28 AM

#14

Check it while its running? And off?

  • toten

Posted June 16, 2016 - 02:03 PM

#15

Running is more important, that'll tell you what the charging system is doing.






 
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