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Rotella oil

By MotoDox,
in DRZ400/E/S/SM

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ptgarcia
ptgarcia

I change my oil often enough that I use the cheap Valvoline 20w-50 4-stroke oil. I can't tell the difference between it and the ultra high dollar full ester synthetics. My oil changes cost about $15 w

Kx250FRiDeR651
Kx250FRiDeR651

Ive been running the 5w40 T6 Rotella in my wr450 with zero issues latley. It shifts smooth. Walmart is a good place to buy it.

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MotoDox

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I change my oil often enough that I use the cheap Valvoline 20w-50 4-stroke oil. I can't tell the difference between it and the ultra high dollar full ester synthetics. My oil changes cost about $15 with new filter and crush washers.

I'm thinking about running that 20-50 valvoline 4 stroke my self. It's cheap I can find it everywhere. I just know now with the spectro full syn my bike performs really well shits smooth as butter. I'm just worried about switching back to a conventional and there could be any potential threat doing so.

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MotoTribology

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that synthetic crap is worthless and nothing but snake oil, any manufacturer that recommends it i guarantee is getting kickbacks ( or actually own the oil company or stock) and the problem with it is it doesnt let a motor and trans break in good.. but since i learned of the jaso ma rating several years back i use an oil now with that rating, usually part syn, just to be correct .. the Actevo i like quite well, seems to stand up good ...

.. another story i can tell you is on the latest used cruiser i bought, the owner bragged of 'always' using full syn, yeah the trans was freaking clunky as hell, now after 7k or so on some actual real oil the trans is starting to get smoother ...

 

I'm curious to know what about synthetic oils you consider to be snake oils. They have their place and they perform well in a lot of applications. Petroleum oil also works fantastic in many applications and oftentimes just as good at half the price. Synthetic oils have less unsaturated bonds and oxidizes at a slower rate, giving it an inherent advantage in oil life. There are a lot of other factors that go into it, but that initial advantage is definitely there. Higher oxidation stability of synthetics gives a very good starting point. Being synthetic or being petroleum based does not make or break a lubricant. The total formulation and the additives used are what gives performance. The base oils are just that, a base to start from. What a company then does to the formula is up to them, and there are good and bad products in both areas.

 

What about synthetics prevent a motor and trans from breaking in? Wear control is extremely dependent on the additive set-up and has very little to do with base oil. Sometimes base oils have an effect on wear but it is very minimal compared to the additives.

 

If you are so anti-synthetic, then why are you making sure to use the act-evo semi-synthetic? If it is to maintain a warranty, then using a semi-syn where a full syn is explicitly required by the OEM isn't protecting your warranty.

 

 

The issue of getting the clunk out of the shifting of many cruisers is from running the correct viscosity rather than any difference between synthetic and petroleum oils. Would I be correct in assuming you also changed the grade and not a direct change from one 20W-50 synthetic to a 20W-50 petroleum oil? 

 

I can't help but feel like this is coming off as hostile and that isn't my intention. I am just having trouble understanding where you are coming from with some of those comments. If I am off base on anything I said, by all means please correct me.

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Grand Master

Beta300REcat

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Wear control is extremely dependent on the additive set-up and has very little to do with base oil. Sometimes base oils have an effect on wear but it is very minimal compared to the additives.

The issue of getting the clunk out of the shifting of many cruisers is from running the correct viscosity rather than any difference between synthetic and petroleum oils.

False and false.

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Tbahr

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Oh here we go. The Oil experts are here BWAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

 

 I run Delo 15/40 (YES the diesel oil)in my bikes and no issues. 125+ racing hours on my KTM450SMR motor and only reason I had to split the cases was do to a crash and slamming the case onto a curb  after it flipped in the air and popped the crank bearing.

 

 No clue how many hours are on the YZF and still fine.

 

 I do change the oil after every ride/weekend and filters every 4th.

Wow, this did open a can of worms from oil critics! Ha ha. Well I also have an opinion on chain lube, want to hear it? Lol
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Tbahr

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I have been running Rotella diesel for at least the last 2 decades... T 15w-40 or T6 5w-40 depending on the bike and season.

I see your in Kentucky, I'm heading there today. My son and I are going to run the Red Bird Crest trail! Oh yea I'm gonna have to come by and confiscate those illegal lawn darts! lol

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Grand Master

Beta300REcat

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Great input. ?  Care to elaborate and inform everyone how additives do not effect wear more than base fluids and how running the correct viscosity is not a major factor in smoothing out hard shifting transmissions? I'd love to hear this.

I'm not here to help educate you. Your the AmwayOil salesman. you already know everything about suspensions and powermechanics. Run along AmwayOil salesman! ?

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MotoTribology

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I'm not here to help educate you. Your the AmwayOil salesman. you already know everything about suspensions and powermechanics. Run along AmwayOil salesman! ?

That's just funny. Yet again you cannot research anything yourself so you throw out random words and hope something sticks.

 

And thanks for letting everyone know that I am 100% correct about what I said. Your endorsement goes a long way  ?

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MotoTribology

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https://www.google.co.uk/#q=yamaha+2+stroke+oil+test%C2%A0&start=10  ?

 

Edit: pdf link not working - go to google page 3 & click on Study on bearing lubricity with 2-stroke oil - Yamaha Motor

 

Thanks for the support  ?

 

As you can see in Figure 7 on page 4; the two esters and the mineral are basically equal and the biggest differences are within the mineral oils and the ester oils individually. So the base fluid alone is not a reliable way to evaluate a product and there are other factors that have a bigger effect on lubrication.

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Diogenes415

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I see your in Kentucky, I'm heading there today. My son and I are going to run the Red Bird Crest trail! Oh yea I'm gonna have to come by and confiscate those illegal lawn darts! lol

 

I have yet to run Red Bird Crest, let us know how it is... need to get down to LBL too. 

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Grand Master

Beta300REcat

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I'm pretty sure the volume of oil won't affect the bottoming of the fork unless you were previously running at too low of a volume. As long as the piston is submerged, a change in the level won't change the damping force.

 

Changing the weight to a 10W should help a bit, but changing to a stiffer spring will have a vastly more significant effect than a change in the oil. With a stiffer spring, you may want a more viscous oil too to better dampen the rebound.

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1175453-more-oil-less-bottoming/

 

 

Don't worry, AmwayOil Salesman. With posts like the one above, everybody can clearly see your race mechanic level with your skills.?

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Grand Master

Beta300REcat

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synthetic crap is worthless and nothing but snake oil, any manufacturer that recommends it i guarantee is getting kickbacks ( or actually own the oil company or stock) and the problem with it is it doesnt let a motor and trans break in good

 

AmwayOil salesmen reciting sales brochures like third graders reading a Zerox copy of a Christmas play only help perpetuate this type of attitude. That and stupid long recommended change intervals.

 

Another recurring AmwayOil sales theme is 'The Secret Additive Formula'.  This drum gets beaten hard because AmwayOil doesn't manufacture its own base stock, it purchases it from a real oil company.

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