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Bought a WR450F. Did I make a poor purchase?


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I recently bought a 2009 WR450F off a guy who used it purely as a dirt bike for approximately $3200.  Upon a quick overview the bike seemed to be in decent condition, but after taking a closer look it seems like it may have gone through more abuse than I initially determined.  There are no recorded hours or milage.  The odometer has been removed as well by one of the owners, but honestly it never really gave any useful information beyond trip meters.  Two things really caught me off guard.  There seems to be no oil line at the front of the crank case like I see in other bikes.  The coolant overflow reservoir has also been bypassed and removed.

 

I'd like to get the opinion of experienced riders on the condition of this bike.  This is something that I'd like to convert to street use (supermoto), but a rebuild of an engine is not on the list for both financial and time reasons.  The guy said it had low hours, but I'm not so sure about that.

 

(I reposted this here because I believe it's a better subform for this question)

 

 

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WR450s last pretty well if taken care of. If the valves are in spec, it rides well, etc I wouldn't be too concerned. 

 

I don't know aluminum frame WRs too well, but do you mean oil line to the frame? The steel frame bikes use the frame as an oil reservoir but the aluminum frame bikes have the dry sump reservoir integrated into the crankcase. 

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Coolant overflow container is nice to have for the street, but not necessary.. it's essentially running a YZ setup where it just vents overboard.. So if your running lots of slow technical stuff, keep an eye on your coolant levels once it cools down.

I believe the last year to store oil in the frame below the headstock was the steel framed bikes up to 2006.  After that I "believe" there's a oil tank integrated on the front of the crankcase.

Looks from the pictures appear to be in good condition, I'd just re-grease everything, and ride the crap outta it.

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Oh and hours and/or milage.. haha.. Who cares, in the off season or if you notice it's getting soft on power, put a new piston into it.  Check your valves once a season, or if the valve train is getting noisy.  Change the oil when you feel it's needed, and run a re-useable oil filter that you can clean and inspect.

Edited by zibbit u2
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Looks babied, with lots of hours based on the wear pattern on the clutch cover.

The swingarm is not all gouged and the un-braced radiators look fine, so this bike was not 'rider thrashed'.

 

You can go 250+ hours on the piston and 700+ on the crank if you are not a hard rider.

I would plan on chaning the top end asap, just to be safe.

 

Download a service manual from Yamaha, and do all the recomended maintenece.

This includes lubing the linkage, swing axle, steering stem, wheels, and adding anti-size where applicable.

 

Then service the carb. It's a total pain, and it must be done or you will get stranded on the trail.

 

http://www.dirtrider.com/features/protips/141_0707_keihin_fcr_carb_rebuild/

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Yeah I think it's missing the oil breather line on the right side of the engine. It looks like the fitting has been plugged.

 

For reference, look at this this line coming from under the clutch cover:

 

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I bought a 2007 for the same price that needed a lot of unexpected work, none of it engine work. Just check the valves, which is easy, and the suspension bearings, which is a pain in the ass.

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Yeah I think it's missing the oil breather line on the right side of the engine. It looks like the fitting has been plugged.

 

For reference, look at this this line coming from under the clutch cover:

 

 

 

I bought a 2007 for the same price that needed a lot of unexpected work, none of it engine work. Just check the valves, which is easy, and the suspension bearings, which is a pain in the ass.

 

Yup, that's the line.  I have no clue as to why it was removed, but if it's just a breather it can't be too important, right?  Not sure if I could do anything about it regardless.

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A few things I'm always skeptical about with used bikes:

- Bikes with numbers on them, whose owners say "never raced"

- Bikes with no hour meters on them whose owners say "low hours" (and even with an hour meter...)

- Bikes with no odometers on them whose owners say "low miles"

Not saying this all applies here or that you got burned or anything - at all - if it starts/runs/shifts nicely, sounds like you did alright for $3200. But unless I know the guy selling it or I can tell by the rest of his garage or by talking with him that he knows what he's doing, I don't believe most of what people say. I would strip it down, grease all bearings and linkages, check the valves, change fork and shock fluids, and change the oil at a minimum. Then you have a decent starting point in my opinion.

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I checked the valves and everything was in spec.  I still can't find any information as to why the oil breather tube was removed.  From what I can determine it seems that the right side hole near the rear brake was plugged and the hole to the right of the dip stick was plugged.  Can anyone with an 07+ bike inform me on where this breather hose goes?  I can't find any diagrams or images that show it clearly.

 

Also, I can't receive any readings on the dipstick even with following the procedure and adding the correct amount of oil.

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I checked the valves and everything was in spec.  I still can't find any information as to why the oil breather tube was removed.  From what I can determine it seems that the right side hole near the rear brake was plugged and the hole to the right of the dip stick was plugged.  Can anyone with an 07+ bike inform me on where this breather hose goes?  I can't find any diagrams or images that show it clearly.

 

Also, I can't receive any readings on the dipstick even with following the procedure and adding the correct amount of oil.

 

 

I had an 07.  Start the bike first and then check oil level.  This is normal.

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I had an 07.  Start the bike first and then check oil level.  This is normal.

I have.  I believe because the oil breather lines were removed is the reason I can't get a reading.

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The interesting thing I see is the swing arm. It looks almost new compared to the rest of the bike. There is a lot of boot wear on the clutch and stator sides and it looks like it has taken a few spills. However, these bikes are pretty bullet proof, so I would say you are in the ball park.

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The interesting thing I see is the swing arm. It looks almost new compared to the rest of the bike. There is a lot of boot wear on the clutch and stator sides and it looks like it has taken a few spills. However, these bikes are pretty bullet proof, so I would say you are in the ball park.

That caught my eye too.  A new swing arm doesn't bother me, but imagining why a new one was needed does.

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Another thing you could do. If you could figure it out. Is if the center valve has been shimmed a few times. You could be In spec but that center valve could have been shimmed more then once. That is the valve that goes the quickest over time. If it hasn't been shimmed compared to the others a top end must of been done or lower hours.

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That caught my eye too. A new swing arm doesn't bother me, but imagining why a new one was needed does.

If they don't replace the, I don't know what you call it but the rubber/plastic chain guide on top of the swing arm. If this isn't caught, it will put a hole in the swing arm. It's a good chance that is what happened, but then you wonder how it got to that point.

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